Kure
Introduction
Kure is a city in Hiroshima Prefecture with a strong industrial and naval heritage. It is home to the second-oldest naval dockyard in Japan and remains an important base for the Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force, so the waterfront and shipyard areas shape much of the city's character.
Before you go
Before you go, know that Kure's tourist information is largely Japanese-only. The local tourist association runs a guide site in Japanese, though it does include links to information in English. The city government's official site also has a guide section, but that too is in Japanese only. Given how little English-language material is available, it's worth planning around these limitations: use the English links from the tourist association where you can, and expect to rely on Japanese-language sources for the rest.Getting there
Most travellers reach Kure through Hiroshima. By rail, the Kure Line runs three trains an hour during the day from Hiroshima; rapid services take 35 minutes and locals 45, and the Kure Line is covered by the Japan Rail Pass. From Mihara in the east the journey takes considerably longer and usually requires a change at Hiro, though going via Kaitaichi can be quicker. JR West sells several regional passes aimed at temporary visitors with foreign passports, ranging from the Hiroshima-Yamaguchi Pass, which also covers non-reserved Shinkansen seats between Mihara and Hakata and the JR Miyajima Ferry, up to the San'yō-San'in and Kansai-Hiroshima passes that reach into Kansai.
Hiroden Bus and Chūgoku JR Bus run the Kurea Line very frequently from central Hiroshima, principally the Bus Center, to Kure Station; it does not serve Hiroshima Station, so from there you change at Minami-kuyakusho-mae for a tram. San'yō Bus's Kamagari-Toyohama-Yutaka Line also runs from the Bus Center and Hiroshima Station South Exit, but only a few times a day. Hiroshima Airport is under an hour away by car, and Hiroden Bus connects it with Kure Station and Aki-Aga station. Overnight long-distance buses are rare, limited to a seasonal Osaka service and a Tokyo service that calls at Kure in peak periods. By sea, Kure Central pier sits next to the Yamato Museum, a short walk from Kure Station, and ferries from Matsuyama — a fast jet and a slower cruise ferry — are the best approach from Western Shikoku; the same ferries can also bring you to Hiroshima Port, where you change to a tram for central Hiroshima.
Getting around
Central Kure is compact and walkable: Kure Station, the waterfront, the Yamato Museum and the JMSDF museum area sit within easy walking distance of one another, and Kure Central pier is a short stroll from the station. The museums and cultural sights are concentrated enough that you can string several together on foot in a day. Beyond the centre, though, the city spreads along the coast and up steep hillsides, and the outlying districts and islands are not realistically walkable from the core.
- Rail: The JR West Kure Line is the backbone of public transport, running along the coast and linking the city with Hiroshima to the west and Mihara to the east. Stations include Yasuura, Ato, Akikawajiri, Nigata, Hiro, Shin-Hiro, Akiaga, Kure, Kawaraishi, Yoshiura, Karugahama, Tennō and Kure-Portopia. From Hiroshima, trains run roughly three times an hour during the day — two rapid and one local; the rapid is quicker but both cost the same, so take whichever comes first. From Mihara, trains take considerably longer and usually require a change at Hiro. The line is covered by the Japan Rail Pass, and JR West sells several regional passes for temporary visitors with foreign passports, each covering a different slice of the network with its own validity period.
- Buses: Buses reach places the rail line does not, including parts of the city and the surrounding islands. The Kurea Line, run jointly by Hiroden Bus and Chūgoku JR Bus, is the workhorse between central Hiroshima and Kure, departing frequently from the Hiroshima Bus Center and terminating at Kure Station; it does not stop at Hiroshima Station, so from there get off at Minami-kuyakusho-mae and change to a tram. San'yō Bus also runs from the Bus Center and Hiroshima Station South Exit toward the Seto Inland Sea islands east of central Kure, reaching Kure Station, but far less frequently. For Fukuyama and Mihara, one practical approach is to take the bus to Hiroshima Airport and change there. Long-distance overnight buses are limited; a seasonal overnight service runs to Osaka, and a Tokyo service calls at Kure only in peak periods.
- Taxis: Available and a reasonable option for short hops, late arrivals, or sights on the hillsides above the centre where bus coverage is thinner. App-based ride-hailing is not described as operating here, so plan on conventional taxis or the bus and rail network.
- Ferries: Kure Central pier sits next to the Yamato Museum, about a ten-minute walk from Kure Station. Services by Seto Naikai Kisen and Ishizaki Kisen are the best way to reach Kure from Matsuyama and much of western Shikoku; a faster jet and a slower cruise ferry are available, the jet costing more and taking well under half the time. On the Matsuyama side, take a bus or walk about ten minutes from Takahama station on the Iyotetsu Takahama Line to the ferry terminal. The same operators run ferries to Hiroshima Port, again with a fast jet and a slower cruise ferry — note that Hiroshima Port is not central Hiroshima, so you will need to change to a tram there.
Where to stay
Kure is a compact city, and your choice of where to stay comes down to how you want to spend your evenings. The area around Kure Station puts you within easy reach of the waterfront, the Yamato Museum and the JMSDF Kure Museum, with dining and shopping close at hand. Staying near the station also makes the most sense if you plan to use the city as a base for day trips along the coast and into the surrounding hills. If you would rather slow down, look toward the quieter edges of the city, where the pace is gentler and the views open up toward the Seto Inland Sea. Wherever you settle, expect a modest range of business hotels, ryokan and guesthouses rather than large resort properties, and book ahead during busy travel periods, when rooms fill quickly.Food & drink
In Kure, curry is the dish to seek out. Kure Kaiji curry is traditionally served to sailors in the Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force every Friday, a custom dating back to the days of the Imperial Japanese Navy, when it was introduced as a solution to widespread vitamin B1 deficiency and is often said to help sailors keep track of the passage of time on long voyages at sea. Each naval vessel has its own slightly different recipe, and several restaurants in the city have been granted licenses by the respective vessels to sell their version to visitors. Because of this, no two curry restaurants in Kure taste quite the same, and many advertise that they are selling curry based on the recipe of a specific naval vessel. Seek out a restaurant flying the banner of a particular ship and compare it with another to taste the difference for yourself.What to see and do
Kure's naval heritage is the main draw, and its two large maritime museums sit across the road from one another, a short walk along a covered pathway from the railway station. At the JMSDF Kure Museum, exhibitions trace the development and current status of submarines alongside the military history and operations of minesweepers, and the former submarine Akishio is displayed outside. Across the road, the Kure Maritime Museum (Yamato Museum) focuses on the World War II-era super battleship Yamato, with a huge one-tenth scale model of the ship as its centrepiece. Displays on the history of the Imperial Japanese Navy are mostly provided with English translations, and a viewing gallery on the upper floors gives you a good look at the warships docked at the nearby JMSDF base. Both museums are within about five minutes on foot of JR Kure Station, making them easy to pair in a single outing. Note that they generally open Wednesday to Monday, so plan around a closing day if your time in the city is short.When to go
Kure has a humid subtropical climate, so expect hot summers and cool winters. Summer is the wettest season, bringing heavy and frequent rain along with high humidity, so plan for wet conditions and pack accordingly. Winter offers a cooler contrast, but rain remains possible because precipitation is significant throughout the year.Three days in Kure
Day one: Base yourself in Kure, a port city in Hiroshima Prefecture, and start by getting your bearings around Kure Station. It is served by the Kure Line, and the Japan Rail Pass covers the route, as does the JR West Yamaguchi Pass. If you are arriving from further afield, the Shinkansen connects Hiroshima with Mihara and Hakata, and from Mihara you can pick up the Kure Line. Most signage and transport information is available in English, which makes the connections straightforward. Spend the rest of the day on foot near the station and the waterfront, where the presence of the Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force shapes the character of the town. Before the modern era, Kure grew as a naval centre, and that history is woven into the city's identity.
- Arrive via the Kure Line from Mihara or Hiroshima
- Use the Japan Rail Pass or JR West Yamaguchi Pass on JR services
- Orient yourself around Kure Station and the waterfront
Day two: Use Kure as your base for a wider loop. Take the Kure Line back toward Hiroshima, or continue by bus where rail does not reach. The Hiroden Bus and Chūgoku JR Bus networks serve the region, and the Kurea Line and Yutaka Line connect Kure Station and the Bus Center with places such as Kamagari and Toyohama. From Hiroshima Station South Exit, buses also run toward Hiroshima Airport. If you would rather cross to the islands, the JR Miyajima Ferry is the rail-linked option, and San is another ferry operator in the area. Keep the day flexible: the point is to see how Kure sits within Hiroshima Prefecture's transport web rather than to rush between stops.
- Hiroden Bus and Chūgoku JR Bus for local connections
- Kurea Line and Yutaka Line link Kure Station and the Bus Center with Kamagari and Toyohama
- JR Miyajima Ferry and San for island crossings
Day three: Slow down and stay close to Kure. Walk the streets near the station and the port, where the everyday life of the city is easiest to read. The Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force presence is part of the scenery, and the city's naval past gives the waterfront its particular atmosphere. If you are heading onward, the Kure Line links back to Hiroshima and Mihara, and from Hiroshima the Shinkansen runs toward Hakata. Buses from Hiroshima Station South Exit and the Bus Center cover the routes that trains do not, including the run to Hiroshima Airport. Before you leave, make sure you have checked which pass covers your route, since the Japan Rail Pass and the JR West Yamaguchi Pass do not apply to every operator.
- Stay local around Kure Station and the port
- Kure Line for onward travel to Hiroshima and Mihara
- Shinkansen from Hiroshima toward Hakata
- Buses from Hiroshima Station South Exit and the Bus Center to Hiroshima Airport