Ichikawa
Introduction
Ichikawa sits in western Chiba Prefecture, within easy reach of central Tokyo thanks to the rail lines and major roads that run through it. That convenience shapes the city's role for travellers: it works well as a base on the Tokyo side of Chiba, or as a stop while moving between the capital and the rest of the prefecture.
Before you go
Before you go, set your expectations: Ichikawa sits in the western part of Chiba Prefecture, facing Tokyo across the Edogawa River, roughly 20 km from the Tokyo metropolitan area. It has developed fully into a residential area, so you are unlikely to come here for local attractions. The appeal is different — if you want a slice of "real Tokyo" that is still only about 20 minutes from the city center, staying here can be a viable option. Practical preparation is limited. The local tourist association runs a Japanese-only guide site, so English-language planning material is scarce; brush up on basic Japanese or have translation tools ready before you arrive.Getting there
Ichikawa is easy to reach from Tokyo by train. JR Ichikawa station is about 19 minutes away on the Chuo-Sobu and Sobu Rapid lines, while JR Motoyawata station is served by the Chuo-Sobu line and the Toei Shinjuku subway line.
- By plane: Keisei Yawata station on the Keisei Main Line has frequent direct services from Narita Airport, taking about an hour, with some through trains continuing to Haneda Airport.
- Connections: Keisei Yawata is roughly 300 metres down the road from JR Motoyawata, and the Toei Shinjuku line platform links the two.
Getting around
Rail is the backbone of movement in Ichikawa, and because the city sits within the same dense train web as the capital, you can plan most journeys as a single continuous trip. Plenty of lines cross the city east to west, making lateral travel easy: the Chuo-Sobu and Sobu Rapid lines link Ichikawa to Tokyo, while the Toei Shinjuku subway line runs underground from Motoyawata. Two stations anchor the city for visitors — JR Ichikawa and JR Motoyawata — and Keisei Yawata on the Keisei Main Line is your airport entry point, with direct services from Narita and some through trains to Haneda. Keisei Yawata sits about 300 metres from JR Motoyawata, and the Toei Shinjuku line platform physically connects the two, so the transfer is straightforward on foot even with luggage. Pay fares per journey with the standard rechargeable IC cards, which work across the JR, subway and Keisei networks, so you do not need a separate ticket for each operator; if you plan to ride a lot in one day, look for day passes on the relevant lines at the station before you travel.
North-south travel is the weak point. Public transport in that direction is limited to slow, poky buses that crawl along narrow, surprisingly congested streets — a consequence of the old, tight street plan, since this is one of the few areas around Tokyo that was not flattened by bombing in World War II. Treat buses as a fallback rather than a first choice, and if your destination lies north or south of a train line, allow generous time or pick another mode. Taxis suit those short north-south hops or an address away from a station; they will not necessarily be fast on narrow, congested streets, but they get you closer to your door than rail can. The same old street plan that slows the buses makes the city pleasant on foot and by bicycle: cycling is popular and a sensible way to cover the gaps between stations and the quieter north-south routes, while walking works well for short trips around each station.
Where to stay
Accommodation in Ichikawa is limited, and the one standout option sits right by the station. If you want to be close to the trains and don't mind paying for the best the city has to offer, this is your choice.
- Hotel R9 Premium Ichikawaekimae — a slightly upmarket business hotel near the North Exit of JR Ichikawa Station, opened in 2024 and widely regarded as the best place to stay in Ichikawa.
Food & drink
Yamazaki Plaza Ichikawa, near the north exit of JR Yamazaki station, is a destination in itself for anyone interested in the country's baking culture. The original headquarters of Yamazaki Baking houses three restaurants: a casual bakery-café on the ground floor where you can watch pastries being made, a relaxed Western-style restaurant on the second floor serving hamburg steaks and similar fare, and the decidedly upscale French restaurant Lumiere. A Yamazaki Fresh supermarket in the basement means you can also stock up on baked goods before you leave. For Italian cooking, head to L'agente in Sugano, a small restaurant where the chef trained in Italy and everything — pasta, bread and biscotti included — is handmade. Both the lunch and dinner courses are excellent value, and à la carte options are available too. Because the restaurant is small and run as a one-man show, it's worth booking ahead, and you should expect to spend a few hours if you opt for the full dinner course.What to see and do
For a small museum devoted to traditional Japanese painting, head to the Higashiyama Kaii Memorial Hall, reached on foot from Keisei Nakayama station. It focuses on the nihonga artist Higashiyama Kaii, and admission is tiered by age, with discounts for seniors and students. The city's best-known attraction is the Ichikawa City Zoo, but it is a modest, old-fashioned facility where animals are kept in cramped concrete enclosures. The experience is dispiriting rather than enjoyable, and it is best avoided.Three days in Ichikawa
Day one: Base yourself around JR Ichikawa or Motoyawata, both of which sit on the Chuo-Sobu line and give you easy rail connections into Tokyo. Use the IC card system on JR and Keisei trains to move around without fuss. Spend your first afternoon getting your bearings in Ichikawa itself, then cross the Edogawa River into Tokyo for the evening if you want a change of scene.
Day two: Head north from Ichikawa to explore the area's World War II history, then return to Motoyawata, which has plenty of places to eat and drink. Motoyawata is also served by the Toei Shinjuku line, so you can reach central Tokyo quickly. If you prefer, use Keisei Yawata on the Keisei Main Line as your starting point instead.
Day three: Treat the day as a practical travel day. Ichikawa is well placed between Narita Airport and Haneda Airport, with rail connections to both, so you can move on without doubling back through the city. Pay with your IC card on JR and Keisei services, and use taxis if you have heavy bags. Japanese is the main language, though English signage at stations helps.