As Salt

Introduction

As-Salt, also called Salt, is an ancient trading city and administrative centre in west-central Jordan, set on the old main highway from Amman to Jerusalem. Built in the crook of three hills in the Balqa highland, roughly 790 to 1,100 metres above sea level and close to the Jordan Valley, it serves as the capital of Balqa Governorate.

One of the three hills, Jabal al-Qal'a, holds the ruins of a 13th-century fortress, giving you a sense of the city's long history as a trading stop on the route between the two cities.

Getting around

As-Salt is a compact city built in the crook of three hills, and its historic core is best explored on foot. The hills and staircases mean you will be climbing, so plan your days with that in mind and wear comfortable shoes. For longer hops across town, or for reaching the city from elsewhere in Jordan, you will rely on buses, taxis, and shared taxis. There is no rail, metro, or tram network, so all movement in and around As-Salt is by road.

Jordan's public transport is built around minibuses, JETT buses, and occasionally private vans. Minibuses and vans can often be flagged down along their routes, which makes them flexible for short journeys. Minibuses have no fixed schedule and depart when full; service is reduced or absent on Fridays and national holidays, and generally stops by early evening, so plan your return trip earlier rather than later. JETT buses are scheduled services that are more comfortable than minibuses, non-smoking, and sometimes offer wi-fi; they are more expensive, and advance booking is recommended or required. As-Salt itself has one bus station, within walking distance of the historic center. From Amman, frequent buses depart from Amman's northern bus station or from the University of Jordan, and shared taxis to As-Salt leave from Ragadan in Amman. City taxis are affordable, but make sure the meter is on, and confirm the terms before you get in, since the meter price may be doubled late at night or in bad weather. Rain can halt buses, and snow almost guarantees that all public transport stops.

• The historic center is compact and walkable, but involves climbing stairs because of the hilly terrain.
• The Harmony Trail is a one-kilometre route starting at the Historical Salt Museum that takes roughly two to three hours and passes mosques, churches, shrines, and heritage homes; guided tours can be booked at the information center, including options that feature lunch with a local family.
• Highlights along the way include the Evangelical Hospital, the Great Mosque, the Latin Church, and the Al Khader shrine.
• Al Ain Plaza is the central meeting place where old men gather to play the traditional game manqala.
• Hammam Street is the liveliest street, with a market selling fresh fruit and vegetables, traditional crafts, clothing, footwear, and household appliances.
• For views, head to the panorama from the Evangelical Hospital or the "Harmony viewpoint" near the ancient Qaqish home.
• For buses to a specific destination, ask in the nearest large town — locals often know the drivers directly.

Three days in As Salt

Day one begins in Amman, from where JETT buses and minibuses make the run to As Salt; minibuses leave from outside the University of Jordan, though service is thinner on Fridays. Settle into the city and take in its character: As Salt is built across hills in the Balqa Governorate, its old centre climbing steeply around Jabal Qal. Start with the Historical Salt Museum for an overview, then walk the Great Mosque and the Latin Church, and finish at Al Ain Plaza as the evening gathers.

• JETT bus or minibus from Amman
• Historical Salt Museum
• Great Mosque and Latin Church
• Al Ain Plaza

Day two is for the old streets on foot. Follow Hammam Street through the historic core, noting the Evangelical Hospital and the Qaqish houses along the way, and take in the Harmony Trail, which links the city's landmarks. Al Khader is worth a stop, and the Ragadan area shows another side of the city. Rain can arrive in the cooler months, so keep the walking flexible.

• Hammam Street
• Evangelical Hospital
• Qaqish houses
• The Harmony Trail
• Al Khader
• Ragadan

Day three looks outward. The city sits above the Jordan Valley, and the Balqa hills around As Salt reward a slower morning before you head back. If you are continuing south, Jerusalem is reachable from Amman; otherwise return to the capital by minibus or JETT. Allow time for the climb back up through the hills.

• Views over the Jordan Valley
• Return to Amman by minibus or JETT