Florence
Introduction
You will find yourself in the heart of Tuscany, where Florence serves as both the regional capital and a major urban center. The city sits within a metropolitan area that encompasses several neighboring communities, creating a sprawling region defined by its historical significance.
Before you go
Before you arrive in Florence, prepare to immerse yourself in a city that served as the most important center in Europe for centuries. You will encounter a landscape shaped by the Renaissance, where architects like Brunelleschi and Alberti revolutionized building styles across the continent. The city's history is deeply tied to the invention of the gold florin, which fueled European industry and funded major religious constructions, and the rise of the Medici family, who influenced statecraft and royalty across the globe. You can also explore the legacy of the Tuscan vernacular, which became a foundation for standard Italian, and the contributions of scientists like Galileo and thinkers such as Machiavelli.
As you navigate the city's streets, keep these practical considerations in mind:
- The local economy is currently driven by artisans who provide goods to visitors.
- Be vigilant against pickpockets and purse-snatchers, particularly in crowded areas like the SMN railway station or on buses.
- Exercise caution at night near tourist spots such as Ponte Vecchio, where individuals may use friendly behavior as a distraction to steal belongings.
- Expect a Mediterranean climate featuring hot, dry summers and mild, wet winters with abundant sunshine throughout the year.
Getting there
You can reach Florence by plane at Amerigo Vespucci International Airport, located a few kilometers from the city center. From this airport, you can take a tram to the main train station or choose a taxi for a direct trip into the historic center. Alternatively, you can fly into Bologna or Pisa; while both are accessible by train, Bologna is often the preferred choice due to its higher volume of flights. If arriving from North America, flying into Rome Fiumicino may offer a faster journey to Florence than other nearby hubs.
Train travel provides frequent direct connections from major Italian cities like Rome, Milan, Venice, and Naples. Most trains arrive at the main station near the heart of the old town. For those traveling by car, the city is well-connected by highways, but driving within the historic center is strictly prohibited for non-residents. You can utilize Park & Ride areas on the outskirts of town or use designated parking lots to avoid navigating restricted zones. Additionally, several bus lines offer direct routes from Florence to various destinations across Italy and neighboring countries.
Getting around
Because the historic center is compact and many streets are too narrow for buses or closed to traffic entirely, walking is the best way to experience the city's life. You can traverse the entire historic center from north to south or east to west in about half an hour on foot. While you should be mindful of quiet but quick electric motor scooters in the plazas during the summer months, most major sights are within easy walking distance of one another.
For those preferring other modes of transport, several options are available:
- Bicycles can be rented at various locations, including the SMN Station and some hotels. While the historic center is flat and easy for cyclists, heavy traffic makes it often faster to use the network of cycle paths to bypass the city center.
- Trams offer a convenient way to travel, with lines connecting the airport and the outskirts to the central train station.
- Public buses serve the city and surrounding areas; however, they do not penetrate the historic center thoroughly due to its narrow streets.
- Taxis are available at specific stands in major squares or can be requested by phone through your hotel or restaurant.
Where to stay
To find more affordable accommodations, you should consider staying outside of the historic center. While the area surrounding the train station offers lower prices, it is less safe for women travelers at night. If you prefer larger chain hotels, be aware that these are typically located a significant distance from the city center. For those seeking budget options in historic locations, certain convents offer low-priced stays, though they do not provide late-night entertainment.
You can find various lodging styles throughout the city:
- Hostels: Options include a stay in a 14th-century noble palace near the Ponte Vecchio, a converted 19th-century convent in Campo di Marte, or a location near the train station that includes breakfast and dinner.
- Bed and Breakfasts: These range from small properties with gourmet meals and cooking classes to central locations offering views of the Duomo.
- Hotels: You can choose between renovated 18th-century villas, 15th-century palaces with original fresco ceilings, or simple but comfortable options in the historic center.
Food & drink
Savor the culinary delights of Florence, where the food is as much of a treat to the palate as the art is to your eyes. You can enjoy everything from high-end dining to local street food, though you should note that many establishments charge different prices for food consumed at a table versus items taken away or eaten while standing. To avoid surprises, always ask for the price before sitting down. For those seeking the best value, venture outside the historical center where locals dine; conversely, areas near the Mercato di San Lorenzo and south of the Duomo are known for higher prices. If you are searching for pizza, head to smaller establishments in the Sant'Ambrogio district, as many traditional trattorias do not have pizza ovens.
Experience authentic Tuscan flavors such as bistecca alla fiorentina, a large t-bone steak, or crostini toscani topped with liver pâté. For a unique local snack with a millennium of history, try lampredotto—a specialty tripe served in a roll with herbs and tomatoes. You can also find various types of gelato, which may feature exotic flavors like watermelon or spumante. To satisfy your hunger quickly, look for schiacciata sandwiches or pasta dishes displayed on "Primi" cards in cafe windows. For a sweet finish, enjoy cantuccini dipped in vin santo.
- Explore the Oltrarno or Santa Croce districts for some of the city's best restaurants.
- Visit the Mercato Centrale to gather ingredients for a picnic or snack.
- Find affordable deli-style meals at local rosticcerie.
What to see and do
Experience the grandeur of Florence by following the advice of Stendhal: do not try to see too much at once. While the Uffizi, the Duomo, and the Bargello are magnificent, they often draw large crowds and long wait times. You can choose to pre-book your entry to these major sites or spread your itinerary across a variety of less touristy options, such as a selection of old churches and a few galleries. To enjoy the city's atmosphere, leave yourself plenty of time and energy beyond just sightseeing.
Explore the architectural highlights of the city:
- Churches: Visit the prominent Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore (the Duomo) or explore other notable churches such as San Lorenzo, Santa Maria Novella, Santa Trinita, Santa Croce, Santo Spirito, SS Annunziata, Ognissanti, Santa Maria del Carmine, and San Miniato al Monte.
- Art Galleries: View the works of Renaissance masters like Donatello, Verrochio, Desiderio da Settignano, and Michelangelo at the Uffizi, Pitti Palace, Accademia, Bargello, or the Museum of the Works of the Duomo.
- City Views: Capture the classic panorama from Piazzale Michelangelo on the southern hillside or from San Miniato al Monte. You can also climb the dome of the Cathedral or Giotto's Bell Tower for elevated views of the surroundings.
Three days in Florence
Day one, you can begin your journey in the heart of Florence to experience the essence of the Renaissance. You might spend your time admiring the architectural contributions of Brunelleschi and Alberti or exploring the history associated with figures like Medici, Galileo, and Machiavelli.
Day two, you can wander through the historic streets to see the Ponte Vecchio. You can immerse yourself in the Tuscan atmosphere as you explore the local surroundings and take in the Italian culture that defines this region of Europe.
Day three, you can enjoy a slower pace while exploring more of Tuscany. Whether you choose to stay within the city or travel nearby, you can soak in the Mediterranean spirit of the landscape.