Taranto
Introduction
Taranto is a coastal city in Apulia, in Southern Italy, and serves as the capital of the province of Taranto. Historically it was also known in English as Tarent. It is an important commercial port and the main base of the Italian navy.
Before you go
Taranto sits in the innermost part of its gulf, which gives it a pleasant Mediterranean climate: rainfall is scarce and temperatures stay warm through the year. Summer is hot but generally windy rather than muggy, thanks to the sea on all sides; autumn and winter are mild and bring most of the rain, with snow very hard to see; spring can be relatively humid with variable temperatures.
Before you arrive, it helps to know what kind of place you are visiting. Taranto was founded by Dorian Greek settlers and was the only Spartan colony outside Greece, later becoming a leading commercial and military power of the Ancient Greek world and the most important centre of Magna Graecia. Its golden age ended with the Roman conquest, and it passed through Lombard, Byzantine, Arab, Norman, Spanish and Bourbon rule before becoming the main base of the Italian Navy after unification. An enormous steel mill built near the centre remains controversial today, but the city holds a high amount of artistic and historical treasures and is worth visiting for more than its industry.
Getting there
If you're flying in, Brindisi Airport is the closest to Taranto, reached via freeway with efficient shuttle services and plenty of rental car agencies; it's the handiest option from central and northern Europe. Bari Karol Wojtyła Airport is a little further along the Adriatic motorway but offers a wider choice of destinations, including discount flights from London, Rome and Milan. For a full list of carriers, check the website of the Apulian airports.
By rail, you can reach Taranto by Eurostar from Milan, Rome, Bologna, Rimini and Bari without changing trains, arriving at the railway station a few steps north of the old town. By road, the Bologna–Taranto motorway is the best approach from northern Italy and the Adriatic coast; from Rome the route runs via Caserta, Nola and Canosa di Puglia, from Naples it crosses Basilicata through Potenza, and from Lecce it goes by way of Brindisi. Long-distance buses stop at the terminal on Via Cristoforo Colombo, near the commercial port and a few steps from the stone bridge of Via Napoli, with operators such as Buscenter, Flixbus, Marino Bus, Marozzi and Miccolis connecting Taranto to cities across Italy, France, Germany and Switzerland; most routes from abroad require a transfer in Milan or Bologna. By sea, Costa Crociere includes the port of Taranto on its Mediterranean cruise routes, though there are no ferry companies serving the city; if you arrive by pleasure craft, the tourist port sits in the northern part of the old town island, facing the cruise terminal.
Getting around
Taranto's geography shapes how you get around: the city sits on a peninsula separating the Mar Grande, where the commercial port lies, from the Mar Piccolo, formed by the peninsula of the old city. Much of what you'll want to see is concentrated on and near the old town island, and the main railway station sits just a few steps north of it, so the historic core is easy to reach on foot once you arrive. The bus terminal on Via Cristoforo Colombo is close to the commercial port and only a few steps from the stone bridge of Via Napoli, putting the transport hubs and the old town within walking distance of each other. Walking works well for short hops in the centre, but for anything beyond it the wider urban distances mean you'll likely want public transport or a car.
Local buses are run by AMAT and are the main way to get around by public transport. Buy a single ordinary ticket (biglietto ordinario) from any tobacconist or newspaper seller rather than on board, where it costs more; it's valid for a single ride. If you plan several journeys, longer options include a time-limited ticket, a one-day solution ticket, a three-day ticket and a seven-day ticket. By train, the station connects to the wider Italian network with direct Eurostar services from Milan, Rome, Bologna, Rimini and Bari. By car, the motorway from Bologna is the best route from northern Italy and the Adriatic coast, with defined routes also from Rome, Naples and Lecce. Long-distance private bus operators link Taranto with many cities in Italy, France, Germany and Switzerland, though almost all routes from abroad require a transfer in Milan or Bologna, and fares can vary drastically by period and even by day, so book early if your dates are fixed. Taranto has no airport of its own: Brindisi Airport is the closest, reached via freeway with shuttle services and rental car agencies, while Bari Karol Wojtyła Airport is a little further away via the Adriatic motorway but offers more destinations. From either, continue by shuttle, rental car, train or long-distance bus. The source doesn't describe taxi ranks or ride-hailing apps, so arrange any taxi or transfer locally, such as through your accommodation or at the railway station.
Where to stay
For most of your stay in Taranto, you will be choosing between the city itself and the coast, and the source material points to a single splurge option: Relais Histo', on Via Santandrea Circummarpiccolo, which sits along the Mar Piccolo side of the city. Book directly with the property if you want to confirm availability and rates. Beyond that, the source lists no budget or mid-range accommodation, so there is little more to say about where to sleep here.Food & drink
Taranto's food scene splits neatly between the old town and the newer centre. For pizza, head to Ricci - Pizzaioli dal 1963 on Piazza Maria Immacolata in the centre of the new town, where you can pick from a long list of varieties alongside salads, hamburgers and panzerotti. Over in the old town, Il Porto on Via Porto is a good bet for discovering local seafood cooking and typical Italian dishes; it closes on Tuesdays.
When it comes to drinking, Birra Raffo is the beer of Taranto, deeply rooted in the town's recent history and society and treated as something of a local institution — you'll find it in practically every bar or restaurant. Beer lovers should also try TaBir Birroteca Tarantina on Via Cavour, a friendly pub with many varieties to taste, plus aperitifs and salty snacks.
What to see and do
In Taranto's old town you can see the Aragonese Castle by Piazza Castello, and the Cathedral of San Cataldo on Piazza Duomo. Nearby on the same square stand two Doric columns, the remains of the Temple of Poseidon, dedicated to the god of the seas and dating to the 6th century BC; they can be admired from behind a gate. On Via Duomo, the Church of San Domenico Maggiore is a Romanesque-Gothic building raised in 1302 over a Byzantine church, itself built on an ancient Greek temple, and reached by a Baroque staircase. For the city's Greek and Roman past in depth, head to the National Archaeological Museum (MArTA) on Via Cavour, or the Spartan Museum on Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, which opens on Sundays and otherwise by reservation. Several ancient burial sites can also be visited: the Via Marche necropolis, the largest funerary area of the ancient Greek polis, with tombs visible from a walkway under a glass and iron roof; the Via Pio XII chamber tomb, a 3rd-century BC hypogeum with sculptural elements, painted decoration and funeral beds; and the Athlete's Tomb on Via Francesco Crispi, a large 5th-century BC chambered tomb where replicas of the grave goods, mainly ceramic vases, are displayed. To see the city from the water, take the AMAT "idrovie" (waterways) service, a 1½-hour guided boat tour around the Big and Little Sea. The route passes the old town island, the modern town coast and San Pietro island, sailing through the navigable channel in both directions, while a guide explains Taranto's history and shares curiosities and anecdotes. Boats leave from the mainland dock at Piazzale Democrate, near the stone bridge of Porta Napoli; departures vary by day and month, so consult the AMAT site for details.When to go
Taranto enjoys a pleasant Mediterranean climate, with little rain and generally warm temperatures throughout the year. Summer is quite hot, but the surrounding sea keeps things windy and not very muggy, so you can expect warm beach weather without oppressive humidity.
Autumn is mild and brings most of the year's rainfall, while winter stays mild and wet, with the bulk of the annual rain falling in this period. Snow is practically never seen, since minimum temperatures stay above freezing. Spring can be relatively humid with variable temperatures, so be prepared for changing conditions rather than steady warmth.
Three days in Taranto
Day one: Arrive in Taranto, a city in Apulia in Southern Italy that was historically known in English as Tarent. Begin by getting your bearings in the modern city, which sits between the Mediterranean and the inner lagoon, and take in the layered past that runs from its Dorian Greek and Spartan origins in Greece through Ancient Greek Magna Graecia, Roman, Lombard, Byzantine, Arab, Norman, Spanish and Bourbon rule to its present role as home to the Italian Navy. In summer the weather is warm and humid, so plan your walking for the cooler hours.
Day two: Travel to Taranto via Brindisi Airport or Bari Karol Wojtyła Airport if you are coming from elsewhere in Europe, or by rail from London, Rome, Milan, Bologna or Rimini, with Apulian connections and Eurostar services making the journey straightforward. Use the day to explore the city's position on the Adriatic and its Mediterranean setting, and to understand how each ruling power left its mark on the place once called Tarent.
Day three: Before you leave, revisit the parts of Taranto that interested you most, whether the traces of Magna Graecia, the medieval layers, or the waterfront facing the Adriatic. If you are continuing elsewhere in Apulia or Southern Italy, the airports at Brindisi and Bari keep the rest of the region within reach.