Riomaggiore

Introduction

Riomaggiore is a village and comune in the province of La Spezia, set in a small valley in the Liguria region of Italy. It is the most southerly of the Cinque Terre villages, which makes it a natural starting point if you are working your way along that stretch of coast.

Getting there

Riomaggiore sits on the regional train line that runs between Sestri Levante (Levanto) and La Spezia Centrale, and that train stops pretty frequently in all five of the Cinque Terre villages. From Milano Centrale, buy a ticket that connects through one of the Genoa stations, where you change to the regional train; the journey should take around 3 hours. From Firenze Santa Maria Novella there is a direct train to La Spezia Centrale that makes frequent stops at most major stations along the way, and the train from Pisa runs along the same line. In both cases you connect to the regional train once you reach La Spezia Centrale, and the trip should take around 2½ hours.

On the regional train you might end up stopping in the middle of a tunnel, where a sign should say Riomaggiore; it can be worth checking with someone else on board that you are in the right place. After getting off, head east on foot to another tunnel with art on the walls, which leads directly to Via Colombo, the main street, on your left — the only way to turn. Continue straight and you will immediately see the steps down to the marina. If you have trouble, there should be someone at the tourist info office near the train tracks who can point you where you need to go. One note for the return leg: although there is a direct train from Florence to La Spezia, there is not a direct train from La Spezia to Florence, so you will need to change in Pisa first, which can make the journey a bit longer depending on the change time.

Getting around

Riomaggiore is a small village, so getting around on foot is straightforward, though you should be prepared for plenty of steep hills and steps that can tire your legs after a while.

• To reach Manarola, the village just west of Riomaggiore, you can walk La Via Dell'Amore, which is accessible with the Cinque Terre card; cards can be purchased at most tourist information centres in the villages.
• To reach the rest of the villages, you'll need to take a train.

Where to stay

Riomaggiore offers a small, simple choice of places to sleep, so it pays to book ahead. Hostel Mar-Mar is the budget option: rooms can be rented cheaply, and bookings are made online through Hostel World. One of its rooms is an apartment with three beds, a kitchen, a washer/dryer, a toilet and a hot shower, which suits a small group or a longer stay.

For a guesthouse stay, Ca' della Valletta sits on Via della Valletta. Rooms come with Wi-Fi and air conditioning, and all accommodations have en-suite bathrooms and access to a terrace.

Food & drink

Riomaggiore's eating options are not detailed here, so plan to explore as you go. For drinking, head to Via Colombo, the main street, where you'll find a bar part-way up the hill. It stays open through the winter, and may also operate in summer.

• The bar has a patio out front with music playing.
• There is a wide range of drinks on offer.
• Plan to buy a drink — otherwise you may be asked to leave.

What to see and do

To reach the water, walk along Via Colombo, the street running through the centre of Riomaggiore, keeping the sea in front of you. Turn left down the steps at the marina entrance, pass the boats, and continue until a set of stairs leads you up onto a path that follows the coast for about a quarter mile, giving you wide views over the Ligurian Sea.

From the marina you can also swim or cliff jump into the Mediterranean, whose water is clear blue. Extensions of rock beside the marina, fitted with stairs and rails, make good launching points. Winter swimming here is risky: the weather is hit-or-miss, and while some winter afternoons can be sunny and warm, rain and cold are just as likely. Manarola is another notable place in the area.

Three days in Riomaggiore

Day one: Arrive in Riomaggiore, the first of the Cinque Terre villages you reach from La Spezia, and settle into your rooms - Hostel Mar and Ca' Valletta are among the places to stay, with Wi-Fi available. Walk Via Colombo, the main street, then continue down to the small harbour. In the evening, eat in Riomaggiore itself.

Day two: Take the train to Manarola, where the Via dell'Amore runs along the coast. If you want more walking, continue to the other Cinque Terre villages. Return to Riomaggiore for the night.

Day three: Plan a day trip by train from Riomaggiore. La Spezia Centrale is the nearest main station, with connections to Genoa, Pisa, Florence and Milano Centrale; from Firenze Santa Maria Novella you can reach the coast via Pisa. Levanto and Sestri Levante are further along the Ligurian coast. Turn back to Riomaggiore in the evening.