Genoa

Introduction

You will find Genoa serving as the capital of the Liguria region, situated along the scenic Italian Riviera. The city offers a sense of scale and history as you explore its urban landscape.

Before you go

You will find that Genoa serves as an excellent base for exploring the Italian Riviera and nearby destinations like Portofino and the Cinque Terre. The city offers a sense of discovery through its "vicoli," where the facades of grand palaces are tucked away in scruffy, enticing alleyways. You can experience a quintessential Italian atmosphere characterized by sunny weather, Mediterranean-style houses with slate roofs, and an abundance of outdoor cafes and bars. While the historical center holds traditional charm, the renovated old port features avant-garde modern architecture and a lively marina.

When navigating the city, stay alert in crowded nightlife zones and on public buses where pickpockets may operate. Exercise caution in darker, deserted alleys off the main paths and avoid displaying flashy items or large amounts of cash. If you head to the coast, be mindful that the local beaches consist of cobbles and rocks with steep sea floors; the underwater stones are often slippery, and you should only swim when the sea is calm.

• When crossing streets at unsignaled crosswalks, be prepared to assert your right of way as local pedestrians do, but remain cautious of scooters or bikers passing stopped vehicles.
• Explore neighborhoods such as Quarto dei Mille, Quinto del Mare, and Nervi, which are considered safe areas during the day and evening.

Getting there

You can reach the city by plane at Genoa Cristoforo Colombo Airport, which hosts daily flights from several major European cities. From there, you can choose to rent a car or take a bus to the city centre; the Volabus provides connections to the ferry terminal and both main train stations, while the Genova Airlink connects specifically to the nearby railway station. If you arrive by train from Milan, Turin, Rome, Tuscany, or France, you will likely arrive at either Brignole or Principe stations. When walking from Principe toward the port, avoid the intimidating Vicoli route and instead follow Via Balbi to the roundabout near the large church, then turn onto Via Delle Fontaine.

For those traveling by car, the journey from Milan involves a twisty stretch of highway that some prefer to bypass via an alternative route through Tortona for a more comfortable drive. Travelers coming from Turin can choose between a shorter route or a longer path along the coastal highway, while those arriving from the French Riviera can enjoy the scenery along the A10. If you travel from Tuscany, ensure you have snow chains on board during the winter months. You may also reach the city by long-distance bus from various European countries and Nice, or by ferry from ports including Barcelona, Tangier, Valletta, Bastia, Olbia, Porto Torres, Palermo, and Tunis.

Getting around

Public transportation is your best option for navigating the city. The bus network serves the entire area, though you should check specific routes as some change based on the time of day. An underground line connects the historical center and Porto Antico tourist area to the northwestern neighborhood of Rivarolo, passing the main train station and a ferry terminal. To reach neighborhoods on the surrounding hills, you can use public elevators and cable railways; the upper stations of the Ascensore di Castelletto and the Funicolare del righi offer views of the city. Because tickets are not sold on board during standard hours, you must purchase them at a newsstand, tobacconist, or underground station before boarding, or via the AMT Genova app. If you prefer to travel along the coast to reach peripheral districts or coastal towns, regional trains provide convenient access.

Avoid using a car for local sightseeing, as finding parking is difficult and most attractions in the center are within walking distance. The narrow caruggi alleys of the historic center are too narrow for vehicles, meaning you must explore them on foot. If you choose to travel by sea, the Navebus offers a scenic route from Porto Antico to Pegli, while private boat services depart from Porto Antico to reach coastal destinations like Camogli and Portofino. For taxi services, you can use Radio Taxi Genova or the InTaxi app.

Where to stay

You can choose from a variety of accommodations depending on your preferred atmosphere and proximity to the city's landmarks. For those seeking a central base, several options are located within the historical center or near the Old Harbour, including B&B Casa Aurora and B&B IL Vico in Central Genoa. If you prefer a more unique experience, Locanda di Palazzo Cicala offers a "hotel de charme" feel in the heart of the historic district, while Apartment Genoa provides options for exploring the local history.

Depending on your needs, you can find various styles of lodging throughout the city:

• Budget-friendly options like Albergo Parigi and Hotel Nuovo Nord are situated near the Porta Principe station, while a Youth Hostel is accessible from the center by bus.
• Mid-range selections include Hotel Cairoli in the historical center, NH Plaza in the financial district, or Hotel Minerva, which sits in a quiet area of Santa Margherita Ligure near the beaches.
• For a more upscale stay, you can choose from several hotels such as Hotel Bristol Palace, Best Western City, Hotel Savoia Majestic, Hotel Romantik Pagoda, or AC Hotel Genova.

Food & drink

Savor the authentic flavors of Ligurian cuisine by sampling local staples like pesto sauce, which originates in the city and features in many pasta and pizza dishes. You can enjoy a thin, crusty chickpea flour pie known as farinata or seek out focaccia, a flat oven-baked bread topped with ingredients such as onions, herbs, or olive oil. For a quick bite, visit local "focaccerie" for takeaway options that offer various improvised toppings.

Depending on your preference for atmosphere, you can choose from several dining styles:

• Traditional regional cuisine and specialty dishes like pansotti and vegetable cakes in the old town.
• Ligurian specialties and fish-focused dishes near the waterfront.
• Quick options such as sandwiches or pizza to go.

What to see and do

Explore one of Europe’s largest preserved historical centers by wandering through the Caruggi, a dense network of tiny streets and alleys that evoke the era when Genoa served as a primary Mediterranean port. You can experience the maritime history of this former republic in the Old Harbour area, which features a promenade along the sea, museums, and cinemas. For a different perspective, visit the Spianata Castelletto for views of the city and seaport, or take a walk to Righi to see the surrounding hills and fortifications. The coastal atmosphere is also palpable in the picturesque fishermen quarter of Boccadasse and along the Corso Italia promenade.

The city offers a wealth of cultural sites and distinct neighborhoods:

• Art and History: Visit the Palazzo Ducale, the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, or the various palaces on Via Balbi and Strada Nuova. Explore specialized collections such as the Chiossone Museum of Oriental Art, the National Ligurian Gallery at the Spinola Palace, and the numerous museums in the eastern suburb of Nervi.
• Maritime Landmarks: See the Lanterna di Genova, a prominent symbol of the city since 1128, and view the Galeone Neptune, a replica of a 17th-century Spanish galleon.
• Local Life: Experience the vibrant atmosphere of the Centro Storico, where you can find traditional shops, butchers, and bars in the bustling alleyways near Piazza delle Erbe and Piazza Luzzati. For shopping, explore the cafes and fashion boutiques along Via XX Settembre and Via San Vincenzo.

When to go

You can experience a Mediterranean climate in Genoa, characterized by warm, sunny summers and mild winters moderated by the sea. If you visit during the warmer months of July and August, you will enjoy plenty of daily sunshine. The sea becomes suitable for swimming from June onwards as the water warms up.

During autumn and early winter, you should prepare for heavy rainfall caused by strong convection, particularly in October and November. While northern winds bring cold air and clear skies during the winter months, southeasterly winds can bring humid, warmer air from the sea. As spring approaches, you will notice rising temperatures and an increase in sunshine as the season progresses toward summer.

Three days in Genoa

Day one, you can begin your journey in the heart of Genoa. You will wander through the historic vicoli and explore the streets of Via Balbi and Via Delle Fontaine to experience the local atmosphere.

Day two, you can head toward the coast to see the Italian Riviera. You can visit the coastal areas of Nervi, Brignole, and Quarto to enjoy the Mediterranean scenery.

Day three, you can travel further along the coast to explore Portofino or the villages of Cinque Terre before your departure from the region.