Qazvin
Introduction
Qazvin is a city in the Central District of Qazvin County, in Qazvin province, Iran. It serves as the capital of the province, the county, and the district, and it is the largest city in the province.
Before you go
Qazvin was once a capital of the Persian Empire and is known today as the calligraphy capital of Iran, home to the celebrated calligrapher Mir Emad Qazvini and the poet Ubayd Zakani; you can find a statue of Dehkhoda, author of the Persian dictionary, in Azadi Square. The city is generally moderate in its adherence to Islamic religious and cultural values: many people, women in particular, dress modestly without being limited to the black hejab, and thin, brightly coloured scarves are a common sight, though you will also see women wearing an enveloping headdress that covers all hair. Dress respectfully in this context — express yourself through the material and colour of your hejab, but stay mindful of the social and religious values at play.
Iran is generally a safe country, but as an obvious tourist you may attract unwanted attention from curious Iranians; don't be alarmed or react negatively. Keep your bag secured, leave personal and valuable belongings in your hotel room or hotel safe, and take the same caution when walking alone late at night or when approached by strangers as you would at home. Emergency numbers are 110 for police, 125 for the fire department, and 115 for EMS, which also serves as road EMS alongside 112.
Getting there
Qazvin has no airport of its own, so most travellers arrive through Tehran. The nearest international gateways are Imam Khomeini International Airport and Mehrabad International Airport, both in the capital. From either one you can hire a taxi, or take a bus or train onward to Qazvin. If you go by taxi, use a registered one and agree on the fare before you set off. The drive follows a straight highway and takes at most two hours; along the way you pass the Abeyek Cement and Shahid Rajaee Gas Power plants.
Trains run from Tehran several times a day, with a journey time of just under two and a half hours, arriving at Qazvin railway station. Buses leave very frequently from near Azadi Square in Tehran and take about two hours, with a choice of older Mercedes buses or modern Volvo-style coaches. By road, Qazvin is linked to Tehran and other major cities by a series of motorways, which are not usually too busy, though it is worth avoiding the times when workers are commuting. Cars can be hired at Tehran International Airport, but taxis are usually the easiest way to reach Qazvin by car, whether private or from official taxi ranks; a shared taxi from Tehran is the standard option.
Getting around
Qazvin is a compact provincial capital, and much of what you will want to see sits within a walkable core. Walking is the simplest way to cover the historic centre: the bazaars, mosques and old quarters cluster together, so once you are in the middle of things you can move between sights on foot without much planning. The city sits at roughly 1,800 metres above sea level at the foot of the Alborz range, and its climate is cold but dry, so pack for cool conditions and expect dry air rather than humidity. Build your sightseeing around that walkable centre and save vehicles for crossing town or reaching the station and terminal.
For longer hops across town, or for day trips out to the surrounding region, you have a familiar mix of Iranian options: taxis, shared taxis, buses, and the rail line that ties the city to Tehran and beyond. Qazvin has its own railway station, served by multiple trains per day from Tehran with a journey of just under two and a half hours; note that the city is not described as having a metro or tram network of its own, so rail here means the national railway. Long-distance buses are frequent and inexpensive, departing very frequently from near Azadi Square in Tehran, with older buses costing less than newer coaches; the bus terminal in Qazvin keeps limited hours, opening in the morning and closing in the evening, so do not count on late-night departures. Taxis are a practical way to get around once you are there, with private taxis and official ranks differing mainly in the condition of the vehicles — an older, unconventional-looking car is usually still perfectly safe. Shared taxis between Tehran and Qazvin are a budget option. Whenever you take a taxi, hire a registered one and agree on the fare before you set off. Qazvin has no international airport of its own; the nearest gateways are Imam Khomeini International and Mehrabad, both in Tehran, from which you can hire a taxi or continue by bus or train. By road, Qazvin is linked to Tehran and other major cities by motorways that are not usually too busy, though it is worth avoiding the times when workers are commuting.
Where to stay
Hotels are scattered all over Qazvin, so finding a room is not difficult. Several options sit close to the bazaar, including the Qazvin Safir Hotel, a short walk from the bazaar and a clean choice with breakfast, and the Merkezi, an economical option near the bazaar whose showers are okay but whose rooms smell of cigarettes and whose blankets are not as clean as the linens. The Bouali guesthouse, at the Bouali-Saadi junction, is also near the bazaar and clean.
Elsewhere in the city, the Alborz is recommendable, clean and has nice staff, though it is not easy to spot from the street since it occupies the first floor and above. The Mir Emad Hotel, a ten-minute drive south-west of Azadi Square on Asad Abadi Boulevard, has no single rooms, but its staff are clean and helpful and the morning and evening receptionists speak proper English. In Alamut, you can stay at Eagles House, a homestay.
Food & drink
Iranian food draws on a whole range of Middle Eastern influences, and Qazvin is a good place to eat your way through that diversity. Chelo kebab is the standard dish you will find in restaurants across the country, but Qazvin has its own regional variations on it, so it is worth ordering here. The city's signature dish, though, is gheime nesar. Try to sample as many different foods as possible while you are in town; the mix of flavours and influences is what makes eating here rewarding.
Restaurants tend to be very hospitable, so asking for a variation on a dish, requesting vegetarian options, or asking about food allergies is generally not a problem. For drinking, international health agencies advise sticking to bottled water in Iran; it is cheap, so cost is not a concern. Alcohol is not tolerated, except for non-Muslims and non-Muslim religious practices, and for Muslims caught partaking in or producing alcohol it is illegal, with punishments that can be very severe.
What to see and do
Qazvin rewards wandering as much as sightseeing. Start in the bazaars, then take a break at the Negarossaltaneh Café in the Sad-o-saltaneh complex, and stroll Sepah Street, the first street built in Iran. The city holds several other Iranian firsts: the first modern hotel, the first modern school, and the first municipality. Among the surviving Safavid buildings from the era when Qazvin was capital of Persia, the best known is the Ali Qapu mansion, now a museum. Elsewhere you can see the Sa'd al-Saltaneh Caravanserai, a preserved Qajar-era urban caravanserai; the 14th-century Tomb of Hamdallah Mustawfi; a Qajar hamam; and the ruins of Meimoon Ghal'eh, one of several Sassanid edifices in the area. Qazvin also has three buildings put up by Russians in the late 19th and early 20th centuries: the current Mayor's office (a former ballet hall), a water reservoir, and the Cantor church, where a Russian pilot is buried. Archeological excavations in the area reach back 9,000 years. For mosques and shrines, the Jameh Mosque is one of the oldest in Iran, its foundation laid on a Zoroastrian fire temple, while the massive Al-Nabi Mosque, also known as the Soltani Mosque, was built in 1787 with parts dating to the Safavid era. The Sanjideh Mosque, another former fire temple, has a present-day form attributed to the Seljuk era, and the Peighambarieh Shrine is where four Jewish saints who foretold the coming of Christ are buried. The Sardar School was built by two brothers in 1815 as the fulfilment of a promise. Further afield stand the Kharaghan twin towers, tombs of two Seljuk-era princes, constructed in 1067 and the first monuments in Islamic architecture to include a non-conic two-layered dome. The big day trip is to the mountains of Alborz to see the remains of Hasan-e-Sabah's Alamut Castle, from where he ruled the assassins order; the Mongols took Alamut and broke the assassins' power, and the castle was reconstructed around 2013 in a way that may seem dubious archaeologically. You can hike and trek at Alamut, or go paragliding at the blue sky flight site in Shafi Abad and along Barajin Road near Fadak Park. For gentler outings, visit the parks — Mashahir on Shahrdai Street, Barajin (Fadak), Melat, and Afarinesh — or head to Varchor Waterfall in Razjerd. You can also swim in Ovan Lake, watch Iranian movies at Bahman Cinema in front of Melat Park, and visit the Qazvin Museum, Kantour Church, Hammam Qajar, Aminiha Hosseiniyeh, and Imamzade Hossein.When to go
Qazvin has a hot-summer Mediterranean climate, so the year splits into a hot, dry stretch and a cooler, wetter one. In summer the heat is intense and rain is rare, leaving the surrounding plains parched under strong daytime sun with little cloud for relief. If you struggle with high temperatures, plan around this season or keep your sightseeing to the early morning and evening.
The coolest months are also the wettest, bringing rain and occasional snow to the city. Days turn cold enough to warrant heavy layers, and winter weather can affect travel in the nearby mountains. This is the season to pack for wet, chilly conditions and to check conditions before heading into the hills.
Three days in Qazvin
Day one: Start in Qazvin, the city at the heart of Qazvin County in Iran's Central District, and get your bearings around Azadi Square, a natural first orientation point. Qazvin was once a capital of the Persian Empire, and its literary heritage runs deep - names such as Mir Emad Qazvini, Ubayd Zakani and Dehkhoda belong to this city, so spend your first day on the Persian language and letters that shaped it. Dress as Iranians do, and keep the emergency number EMS in mind as you settle in.
Day two: Look beyond the city toward the Alborz, the mountains that frame this part of Iran. For longer moves, Tehran is within reach, served by Imam Khomeini International Airport and Mehrabad International Airport, and by Tehran International Airport. Trains, buses - Mercedes and Volvo among them - and shared taxis all cover the ground, while cars give you the most freedom. If you would rather stay close, walking remains the best way to read the city's long Iranian history.
Day three: Use your last day to connect Qazvin to the wider region. Industry marks the surroundings, with Abeyek Cement and Shahid Rajaee Gas Power among the working sites of the area. From Qazvin you can build a route onward by rail, bus or car, and the Islamic architecture and craft you have seen will stay with you. Keep your plans simple, and let the city's Persian character set the pace.