Vidisha

Introduction

Vidisha is a city in the state of Madhya Pradesh, India, and serves as the administrative headquarters of Vidisha district. It is also a Jain pilgrimage center, and it sits roughly 62.5 km northeast of the state capital, Bhopal.

The city's name comes from the nearby river Bais, which is mentioned in the Puranas. Vidisha also appears in the ancient epic Ramayana, where it is described as being under the rule of Shatrughna, Rama's youngest brother, and later under the rule of Shatrughna's younger son, Shatrughati.

Before you go

Vidisha is one of India's oldest cities, with a history reaching back to the Mauryan Empire and close associations with Emperor Ashoka, who governed here before ruling the Mauryan Empire. It later flourished under the Guptas and the Paramara dynasty, and its proximity to Sanchi makes it a convenient stop while exploring the region.

• Plan ahead rather than expecting to arrange things on arrival — Vidisha is a small town.
• Medical facilities are limited; for anything serious, head to Bhopal, about an hour away.
• ATMs and card payment are not reliable everywhere, especially near the archaeological sites, so carry enough cash.
• The Udayagiri Caves and the Heliodorus Pillar are somewhat isolated with few people around outside daytime visiting hours — visit earlier in the day and not alone after dark.
• Stick to bottled water, and be cautious with street food if you have a sensitive stomach.
• Dress modestly at temples and remove your shoes before entering.

Getting there

Vidisha is reached most easily from Bhopal, about 60 km away. The nearest airport is Raja Bhoj Airport in Bhopal; from there you can hire a taxi or take a bus on to Vidisha. By road, National Highway 86 passes through Vidisha, connecting it with Bhopal and other major cities in Madhya Pradesh, so arriving by car or bus is straightforward.

• By train: Vidisha Railway Station is well connected to major cities including Bhopal, Delhi and Mumbai. Regular trains run between Vidisha and Bhopal, a journey of about an hour.

Getting around

Vidisha is compact, and much of what you want to see in the old town is best covered on foot. The historic core rewards walking: the remains of the Bijamandal temple sit near its eastern edge, and the surrounding lanes, step-wells and the Archaeological Survey of India storehouse of collected sculptures are all explored at an unhurried pace. For anything further out, use an auto-rickshaw — the most common way of moving around the city, easy to flag down, and well suited to short hops between the old town, the railway station and the market areas. Fares are not metered, so agree the price with the driver before you set off; for a half-day of sightseeing it is often simplest to settle on a rate with one driver rather than finding a new rickshaw at each stop.

Local buses connect the major points within the city and are a workable budget option along the main routes, though they are less flexible for reaching specific monuments — ask locally which route serves your destination. Taxis are available for longer distances and day trips, which makes them the sensible choice for the outlying archaeological sites: Sanchi, the Heliodorus pillar and Udayagiri are all within easy reach by car, and hiring a vehicle for the day lets you combine several in one trip. Arrange it in advance through your hotel or a local operator. Vidisha Railway Station is well connected to Bhopal, Delhi and Mumbai, with regular trains to Bhopal taking about an hour, and auto-rickshaws wait at the station to take you into the city. If you are arriving by air, the nearest airport is Raja Bhoj Airport in Bhopal, roughly 60 km away, from where you can hire a taxi or take a bus; alternatively, continue to Vidisha by rail via Bhopal. By road, National Highway 86 passes through the city. Hindi is the most widely spoken language, with Bundeli as its major dialect, so a few words of Hindi will help with drivers and directions.

Where to stay

Vidisha's accommodation is concentrated around the railway station, where you'll find several budget and commercial hotels within easy reach of the platforms. Hotel Rajawat in Madhoganj, Hotel Roshan Residency on Yuvraj Club Road opposite Yuvraj Club, and Hotel Suraksha in the Suraksha Complex on Hospital Road all put you close to the station, making them convenient if you're arriving or departing by train.

If you'd prefer more comfort, look to the mid-range options: Enrise By Sayaji on the Vidisha–Sagar Bypass, which has a restaurant and a 24-hour front desk, and The Riverside Inn on Sanchi Road, a resort-style hotel with a restaurant and an outdoor pool. For a wider choice of upscale and heritage hotels, many travellers choose to base themselves in Bhopal, about an hour away.

Food & drink

Vidisha has a handful of local specialities worth seeking out. The town is particularly known for its kachoris, including onion kachori and moong dal kachori, sold at local snack shops. Sev namkeen, a crunchy, tangy fried snack, is popular across the region, and dahi lassi — a curd-based yoghurt drink that can be sweet or savoury — is common at local shops.

• Kachori, including onion and moong dal versions, from local snack shops
• Sev namkeen, a crunchy, tangy fried snack
• Dahi lassi, a curd-based sweet or savoury yoghurt drink
• Fresh sugarcane juice

For proper meals, small vegetarian bhojanalays near the railway station and Hospital Road serve simple, home-style North Indian thalis at low prices. Local markets are also a good place to find chaat and other street snacks. For drinks, stick to bottled water for safety, and try fresh sugarcane juice, which is popular locally.

What to see and do

Three days in Vidisha

Day one: Base yourself in Vidisha, in Madhya Pradesh, India, and use it as your starting point for the region. Begin with the town itself, whose history reaches back through the Mauryan Empire and the Guptas to the Paramara period, and whose name is tied in the Puranas and the Ramayana to Shatrughna, Rama and Shatrughati. Visit the Bijamandal, cared for by the Archaeological Survey, and take in the town's Jain associations. Plan your transport early: Vidisha Railway Station has regular services from Delhi and Mumbai, and the town is reached by National Highway, with local taxis available for the sites around it.

Day two: Give the day to Sanchi and its stupas, the great Buddhist site associated with Emperor Ashoka, a short distance from Vidisha. Return to town in the afternoon for the Heliodorus Pillar, also known as the Heliodorus column, one of the oldest surviving monuments in the region. Keep the pace slow; the weather here can be hot and dry for much of the year, so carry water and dress for sun.

Day three: Head out to the Udayagiri Caves, carved into the rock and among the most important remains near Vidisha. If you are arriving or leaving by air, Raja Bhoj Airport at Bhopal is the nearest option. Before you set out, note that medical facilities and ATMs are available in Vidisha, and check fares for local taxis in advance.