Satna
Introduction
Satna is a city in the Indian state of Madhya Pradesh, and it serves as the headquarters of Satna district. It lies roughly 500 km east of Bhopal, the state capital, so it sits well away from the centre of state administration and closer to the eastern side of Madhya Pradesh.
The city spreads across a land area of about 112 square kilometres, giving it a fairly open, spread-out feel rather than a tightly packed core. Beyond its role as a district headquarters, the source offers little on neighbourhoods, sights or food, so treat Satna as a practical stop and a base for the surrounding district rather than a city with a long list of must-see attractions.
Getting there
Satna is very well connected by rail, and the train is probably the best way to reach the city. Satna Junction railway station is the point of arrival for rail travellers.
Daily buses run from Satna to Khajuraho, though taxis are the suggested mode of transport for that route. Satna has only a small airstrip with no regular flight services; the nearest airport with scheduled flights is at Khajuraho (HJR), roughly 115 km (71 mi) away, which has regular flights to and from Delhi and Varanasi.
Getting around
Satna has no metro or tram network, so getting around relies on a mix of auto-rickshaws, buses, taxis, shared jeeps, and the railway station. Auto-rickshaws are widely available and are a cheap way to make short trips within the city, while shared jeeps are a budget option linking Satna with nearby towns and rural areas such as Maihar and Nagod. For longer or more comfortable journeys, cars and taxis can be arranged through prepaid booths at key points or through private operators, and local and online car rental agencies also operate in the city. As a rule, use auto-rickshaws or shared jeeps for the cheapest short-distance travel, and taxis or car rentals for outstation trips and full-day hire.
City buses operate colour-coded routes for travel within Satna, and for regional journeys state buses run by the Madhya Pradesh Road Transport Corporation connect the city with Rewa, Panna, Chhatarpur, Jhansi, Indore, Bhopal, and Gwalior. There are also daily buses to Khajuraho, though taxis are suggested as the better option for that route. Key bus stops and depots include Chanakyapuri Bus Depot, Nazirabad Bus Stand, Birla Bus Stop, Badkhar Nagar Stop, and the area around Satna Railway Station. Satna is not described as a notably walkable city and faces problems including poor road conditions, so walking is best suited to short hops within a neighbourhood or around a specific destination rather than as a way to cross the city; for anything beyond a short stroll, an auto-rickshaw is the simplest option. The railway station area is a convenient base for picking up onward transport, and it is wise to book trains and buses in advance, particularly during festivals and peak season.
Where to stay
Accommodation in Satna is limited, with Hotel Uma Resort being the main option for travellers needing a place to stay. It is worth arranging your room in advance, as the town has few alternatives and demand can be unpredictable.
Food & drink
Satna's street food is where the city's character comes through. Look for lotan kee mungaudi near the railway station, and head to Prem Nagar for Sardaar Jee kee chaat and dahi bade. Kishori kee lassi is the drink to seek out, while Panni Lal Chowk is the place for poha-jalebi. Jhalla ke samose are another local snack worth trying.
- Lotan kee mungaudi – near the railway station
- Sardaar Jee kee chaat aur dahi bade – Prem Nagar
- Kishori kee lassi
- Poha-jalebi – Panni Lal Chowk
- Jhalla ke samose
- Indian Coffee House – Semariya Chowk
What to see and do
For greenery and ancient caves, head to Chitrakoot, where the Ramcharitra Manas was written and where Lord Ram is said to have spent around twelve years with Sita and Lakshman. You can visit the River Mandakini Ramghat, Tulsi Mandir, Bharat Milap, Bharat Koop, H Dhara Mountain and Kamadgiri mountain. It is a rewarding place for pilgrims, and expect heavy crowds on Amavasya and Purnima. Maihar is home to the Sharda Mata temple, while Dharkundi offers greenery all around and a peaceful, meditative atmosphere that not many people know about. At Ramban, about 15 km from Satna on Rewa Road, you can see ancient remains of temples and the Hanumanji Mandir. For a taste of the local food, try samosa, jalebi and khurchan.Three days in Satna
Day one: Arrive at Satna Junction or Satna Railway Station and settle into accommodation in Prem Nagar, where Hotel Uma Resort is among the options. Use the city as your base for the days ahead, getting your bearings around Chanakyapuri Bus Depot, Nazirabad Bus Stand, Birla Bus Stop and Badkhar Nagar Stop, the main points for buses run by Madhya Pradesh Road Transport Corporation. Eat simply at places such as Sardaar Jee or Kishori, and keep the first day light.
Day two: Head out to Maihar, a short trip from Satna, and return by evening. If you prefer a longer day, Khajuraho is reachable from Satna, as are Nagod and Rewa. Buses and trains connect Satna with Bhopal, Delhi, Varanasi, Jhansi, Indore, Gwalior, Panna and Chhatarpur, so plan your onward travel around Satna Junction. Back in the city, an auto is the easy way to get around.
Day three: Spend the morning around the city before departing. Satna sits in Madhya Pradesh, and its position makes it a practical stop between Khajuraho, Varanasi and the larger cities of the region. Check your connections from Satna Junction or the bus stands, then continue your journey.