Ratlam
Introduction
Ratlam is a city in the northwestern part of the Malwa region, in the state of Madhya Pradesh, India. It sits at an elevation of 480 metres above sea level and serves as the administrative headquarters of Ratlam district, which was created in 1947 after Indian independence. The city lies roughly 294 kilometres west of Bhopal, the state capital.
Before you go
Before you go, it helps to know that Ratlam was originally called Ratnapuri, and that the city sits in Madhya Pradesh, bounded on its western side by the Chittaurgarh district of neighbouring Rajasthan. Plan your visit around its historical and ancient religious monuments, which are the main draw for travellers. The city's economy has shifted over time: it was once known for the production and trade of opium and tobacco, and it is now associated with chemicals, copper wires, perfumes, pottery and textiles. Expect a destination shaped by that trading and manufacturing heritage rather than a resort-style stay.Getting there
Ratlam is a major railway junction in Madhya Pradesh, and the train is the most straightforward way to arrive. The station sits on the main line between Mumbai and Delhi, so you can reach the city on long-distance services running along that corridor, as well as on trains serving other parts of the region. If you are coming from within Madhya Pradesh, buses and trains connect Ratlam with the larger cities of the state, making it a practical stop while travelling between them.Getting around
Ratlam is compact, and getting around is generally simple. There is no metro or tram network, and few formal local buses, so most movement within the city happens by auto-rickshaw. Shared autos run on fixed routes and are very cheap, with other passengers aboard; private autos are hired whole, with the fare negotiable. For most short hops, either form is the easiest option, and autos are also the suggested way to reach Kalika Mata Mandir, Mahalakshmi Temple and Babus Water Park. Cycle-rickshaws remain common in the older, narrower parts of the city such as Chandni Chowk, where motorized vehicles struggle to pass. In fact, cars should be avoided in Chandni Chowk's very narrow lanes, popular for gold and sev — use an auto-rickshaw or simply walk instead. Walking works well in specific areas rather than as a city-wide strategy; for longer cross-city journeys you'll want an auto-rickshaw.
Ratlam Junction (RTM) is a major railway junction and the divisional headquarters for Western Railways, sitting on the Delhi–Mumbai and Ajmer–Khandwa routes. Just outside the main exit you'll find 24/7 pre-paid auto stands, cycle-rickshaws and taxi counters — a convenient, fixed-price way to start your onward journey into the city. For short trips to nearby towns, local MEMU and DEMU trains are the cheapest and fastest options, connecting Ratlam to Nagda, Jaora, Ujjain and Indore; a local train is also a suggested way to reach Bilpakeshwara Temple. For travel beyond the city, intercity buses depart from Ratlam Bus Stand on Mhow Road, connecting to Indore, Bhopal, Udaipur and Ahmedabad, with operators including MPSRTC and private firms such as Hans Travels and Chartered Bus. Taxis and rental cars are less necessary within the city but are the practical choice for out-of-city sights such as the Cactus Garden at Sailana and Dholawad Dam, and a private taxi is suggested for Kedareshwar Temple. Book these in advance through an agency or your hotel; operators include Clear Car Rental, Cabbazar and local agencies near Station Road.
Where to stay
For a straightforward stay, Hotel Sagar Castle sits on Railway Colony Main Road near Daat Kie Pool, a convenient base if you're arriving or departing by train. It's a budget hotel with air-conditioned rooms and free Wi-Fi, and there's a restaurant downstairs, so you can eat without venturing far.Food & drink
Ratlam is the birthplace of Ratlami Sev, a crunchy, spicy chickpea snack that is popular all over India — seek it out while you are in town. For a broader menu of sandwiches, burgers, pasta, pao bhaji, Chinese dishes, sundae ice cream and other snacks, head to Checkers Café on Topkhana Road, opposite the State Bank of India.What to see and do
Ratlam's sights lean heavily toward the religious and the botanical. Jain heritage is central here: Bibrod Tirth is a major temple honouring Adinath, the first tirthankara, while the Shwetambar Temple on Station Road is dedicated to Parshvanath, the twenty-third tirthankara, and holds a statue of him over thirteen feet high carved from a single emerald stone.
- Bibrod Tirth — a major Jain temple centred on Adinath, the first tirthankara
- Shwetambar Temple, Station Road — Jain temple to Parshvanath, with its towering single-emerald statue
- Cactus Garden, on the Ratlam–Banswara highway at Sailana Palace — compact but well kept, and unlike most gardens you will come across, with a striking range of cactus varieties, many of them towering over you
When to go
Ratlam has a tropical savanna climate with three distinct seasons, and the timing of your visit will shape your trip considerably. Summer begins in mid-March and turns extremely hot from April through June. Humidity is very low, so the heat is dry and punishing, making sightseeing uncomfortable during the day. The monsoon arrives in late June and lasts through September, bringing sustained, torrential rainfall and high humidity. Temperatures stay warm throughout, and this season delivers most of the year's rain.
Winter, from mid-November onward, is the most comfortable time to explore the city: it is dry, cool and sunny. Nights can fall close to freezing, so pack warm clothing if you are travelling in this season.
Three days in Ratlam
Day one: Start in Ratlam, the city in Malwa, Madhya Pradesh, India. It is an Indian city with a long history, once known as Ratnapuri. Before you go further, plan your time around the centre. Expect to arrive via Ratlam Junction, also called RTM, on Western Railways, with links to Mumbai, Delhi, Ajmer, Khandwa, Nagda, Jaora, Ujjain, Indore and Bhopal. Shared autos and cycle rickshaws are useful for getting around. For a first look at local life, head to Chandni Chowk, where you can walk and eat. In the evening, visit Kalika Mata Mandir and Mahalakshmi Temple.
- Ratlam Junction (RTM)
- Chandni Chowk
- Kalika Mata Mandir
- Mahalakshmi Temple
Day two: Use the day for the temples and the older side of the city. Just outside the centre, Bilpakeshwara Temple is worth your time. There are MEMU and DEMU trains on the local network if you want to move between nearby places such as Nagda, Jaora, Ujjain and Indore. If you prefer a slower day, stay in Ratlam and explore on foot. For families, Babus Water Park is an option.
- Bilpakeshwara Temple
- Babus Water Park
- MEMU and DEMU trains
- Nagda, Jaora, Ujjain, Indore
Day three: Plan a longer trip out of the city. Chittaurgarh in Rajasthan is reachable, and so are Bhopal, Ujjain and Indore. Before you leave, walk once more through the centre of Ratlam and try the local food. If you have time, take a cycle rickshaw to Ratlam Junction for your onward train. There is more in Malwa to see, but three days gives you a feel for Ratlam and its neighbours.
- Chittaurgarh, Rajasthan
- Bhopal
- Ujjain
- Indore
- Ratlam Junction