Dewas
Introduction
Dewas sits in the Malwa region of Madhya Pradesh, and it serves as the administrative capital of its district. Its past is unusual: during the British Raj the municipality was the seat of two princely states at once, Dewas Junior and Dewas Senior, both 15-Gun Salute states ruled by the Pawar clan of the Marathas. That double inheritance gives the city a history worth knowing before you arrive.
Today Dewas is an industrialised city, and it houses a government bank note press — a fact that shapes its working character. Come expecting a place defined by administration, manufacture and its Maratha princely legacy rather than by a tourist trail.
Before you go
Before you go, it helps to know what kind of place Dewas is. It was once the seat of two princely states during the British Raj, Dewas Junior and Dewas Senior, both ruled by the Pawar clan of the Marathas and both entitled to a 15-gun salute. Today it serves as the administrative capital of Dewas district and is an industrialised city, notable for housing a government bank note press. Plan your trip around the fact that this is a working, industrial city rather than a resort town, so your time is best spent understanding its princely and administrative character. The source offers little on specific sights, food or neighbourhoods, so keep your expectations modest and treat Dewas as a place to understand rather than a place to be entertained.Getting there
Dewas is served by direct trains from major cities across India, making it reachable by rail from several directions. From Mumbai, the daily Awanitka Express runs to Dewas, while the Pune-Indore Express connects Pune three times a week. From New Delhi, two daily services are available: the Hazarat Nizamuddin Intercity Express and the Malwa Express. All of these arrive at Dewas Junction railway station, the city's railhead and your point of arrival if you come by train.Getting around
Dewas has no airport, metro or tram network of its own, so getting around means a mix of auto-rickshaws, taxis, ride-hailing apps, buses and trains. For short hops within the city, local autos are the usual choice; walking suits short trips in the immediate area rather than crossing town. For longer journeys or trips to nearby cities such as Indore and Ujjain, use taxis or ride-hailing services — Uber, Ola and local taxi operators all run in Dewas. Car hire, self-drive or with a chauffeur, can be arranged from Indore Airport or city centres.
Dewas Junction (DWX) is the main railway junction, on the Indore–Gwalior line with connections to Indore Junction and Ujjain Junction. Direct trains run from major cities across India, including the daily Awanitka Express from Mumbai, the thrice-weekly Pune–Indore Express, and two daily trains from New Delhi, the Hazarat Nizamuddin Intercity Express and the Malwa Express. Frequent passenger and express trains link Dewas with Indore Junction in roughly an hour. The central bus stand is served by MP Road Transport and private buses to Indore, Ujjain, Bhopal and beyond; the Dewas–Indore route has multiple daily buses, including AC, non-AC and sleeper options, taking about one to one and a half hours. Book buses and trains online in advance for the best fares, especially during peak tourist and festival periods when demand is higher. If you are flying in, plan around Indore's Devi Ahilya Bai Holkar Airport, roughly 40 km away, and transfer by cab, bus, or train via Indore station.
Where to stay
Dewas is a mid-sized city in Madhya Pradesh, and its accommodation is best treated as a practical base rather than a destination in itself.
- Expect the usual Indian city mix of budget lodges and mid-range hotels, with the widest choice likely in the central parts of town.
- Because no named properties or districts are available here, book on arrival or through a booking site and check recent reviews before committing.
Food & drink
For a meal in Dewas, head to A. B. Road, where you'll find the Indian Coffee House. It's the one eating place the source names for the city, so plan your dining around it rather than expecting a wide spread of listed options. The source material for Dewas says nothing about local specialities, street food, or where to drink, so there's little more to add here. Treat A. B. Road as your starting point and ask locally for anything beyond it.What to see and do
To reach Devi ki Tekri, you can choose between two routes: a flight of steps or a gentler slope. The slope makes for a longer but easier climb, and at the southern end of the hill you'll find the temple of Tulja Mata. Historians consider this temple contemporary with the temple of Chamunda Mata, and inside sits the upper half of a statue of the goddess; Tulja and Chamunda are held to be sisters. Elsewhere in the city, Mitha Talab offers a lake to wander beside.Three days in Dewas
Day one: Arrive at Dewas Junction, the town's railhead, which is served by trains from Mumbai such as the Awanitka Express, from Pune by the Indore Express, and from New Delhi by the Hazarat Nizamuddin Intercity Express and the Malwa Express. If you prefer to fly, Indore Airport is the nearest, and from there you can reach Dewas by car, Uber or Ola. Once settled, spend your first afternoon getting your bearings in Dewas itself, a city in the Malwa region of Madhya Pradesh whose character was shaped under the Marathas and the British Raj, when it was divided between Dewas Junior and Dewas Senior, two princely states that shared the same town and were entitled to a Gun Salute.
- Arrive by train at Dewas Junction, or fly into Indore Airport and continue by car, Uber or Ola.
- Trains from Mumbai (Awanitka Express), Pune (Indore Express) and New Delhi (Hazarat Nizamuddin Intercity Express, Malwa Express) all serve Dewas.
- Spend the afternoon exploring Dewas, once split between Dewas Junior and Dewas Senior.
Day two: Use Dewas as your base for the wider Malwa region. Indore and Ujjain are both within easy reach, with Indore Junction and Ujjain Junction as the rail options and roads connecting all three. Plan a day trip to one of them, or stay closer and look at how the old Maratha and British Raj layers sit alongside the present-day town. The Pawar legacy and the story of the two states, Dewas Junior and Dewas Senior, are the threads that make Dewas worth more than a passing stop.
- Day trip to Indore or Ujjain, both close to Dewas.
- Rail connections via Indore Junction and Ujjain Junction.
- Look for the Maratha and British Raj heritage, including the Pawar connection and the Dewas Junior and Dewas Senior division.
Day three: Before leaving, take a final look around Dewas itself. Today Dewas is a working town in Madhya Pradesh rather than a monument town, so the interest lies in its layered past and its position in Malwa. When you are ready to move on, Dewas Junction links you onward to Indore, Ujjain, Gwalior and beyond, and the same trains that brought you in can carry you back towards Mumbai, Pune or New Delhi.
- Spend the morning in Dewas before departing.
- Onward rail connections from Dewas Junction to Indore, Ujjain and Gwalior.
- Return options towards Mumbai, Pune and New Delhi on the same services.