Muzaffarpur
Introduction
Muzaffarpur sits on the banks of the Burhi Gandak River in the Tirhut division of Bihar, and it serves as the administrative headquarters for both the division and the surrounding district. Because of its position in the state's northern reaches, it is often called the Capital of North Bihar.
Getting there
Muzaffarpur Junction (station code MFP) is the main rail gateway, with daily trains linking it to major Indian cities. Several long-distance services pass through, including the Shaheed Express, Mithila Express, Maurya Express, Sadhbhawna Express, Vaishali Express and Amarnath Express. From Delhi, the Vaishali Express, Bihar Sampark Kranti and Saptkranti Express are the fastest and most comfortable options, covering the journey in roughly 18 to 19 hours. Trains are often heavily booked, so reserve your ticket well in advance, either at the station or online through the IRCTC website.
By road, Muzaffarpur sits on a network of routes connecting it to neighbouring cities and towns. Buses are the best option from Patna, which is about three hours away, and there are also direct services to Siliguri, Guwahati and Ranchi. Other places within reach by road include Darbhanga, Madhubani, Bihar Sharif, Bhagalpur, Bodhgaya, Raxaul, Mehsi and Varanasi.
Getting around
Within Muzaffarpur you can hire taxis, autorickshaws and cycle rickshaws, and shared autorickshaws are a common, inexpensive way to travel along popular routes. Cycle rickshaws suit short hops and narrow lanes, while taxis work for both local trips and longer journeys. The city ring bus service, run by the regional transport authority, uses mini buses on five different routes and is the cheapest way to cross town; its arrival broke the monopoly of rickshaws and autorickshaws, so you now have a genuine choice of modes. Agree on the fare before you set off in a cycle rickshaw or hired autorickshaw, and compare options before committing.
Muzaffarpur is a compact, flat, saucer-shaped town on the Indo-Gangetic plains, so walking is feasible for short trips, particularly around commercial hubs such as Sutapatti Bazar and Motijheel Market. For longer journeys, or in the heat, combine walking with a cycle rickshaw, autorickshaw or ring bus. There is no operating metro or tram, so plan around rail, road and hired vehicles. Muzaffarpur Junction, on the East Central Railway zone, connects directly to major cities across India, and for arrivals from Patna the bus is the recommended option. The airport is a small facility rather than a major hub, so confirm your transfer in advance and use the same taxis, autorickshaws and cycle rickshaws that serve the rest of the city.
Where to stay
Muzaffarpur's hotels cluster around a few key areas, so your choice of neighbourhood will shape your stay. Emalichatti is the busiest of these for accommodation, with several hotels to choose from, while Kalambagh Road in Nayatola and nearby Kalyani Chowk offer alternatives a short distance away. If you want to be right by the railway, look to Station Road opposite the train station, and for those arriving or leaving by bus, there is a hotel near the Government Bus Stand.
- Emalichatti — Hotel Aastha, Hotel Kanishka International, Hotel Rama
- Kalambagh Rd, Nayatola — Hotel Chandralok
- Station Rd, opposite the train station — Hotel Embassy International
- Motijhil — Hotel Ranjeet
- Near Govt. Bus Stand — Hotel Sanskar
- Kalyani Chowk — Hotel Sawpanalok
- N.H. 28, Bhagwanpur — Hotel Swarg International
- Chhoti Sariyaganj — Hotel UK
Food & drink
For sweets, head to Saraiyaganj, where Maharaja Sweets and Bharat Jalpan are known for rasgulla, rasmadhuri and chaat, or to Vaishali Sweets near Chatta Chowk for the same classics. The roadside shop at Santoshi Mata Mandir, near the railway station, is worth seeking out for its jalebi, malpua and lassi. For something savoury, try taas and chura, a meat dish, near Laxmi Chowk.What to see and do
Muzaffarpur rewards travellers who seek out its religious and historical sites. In the centre of town, the Baba Garibnath Temple is one of the most famous shrines to Lord Shiva, and its legend tells of a Shivling found inside a banyan tree. The nearby Mata Banglamukhi Temple, a Siddh Pith close to Hathi Chowk, draws Tantric Hindus, particularly during Navratri. Also worth visiting are the Chaturbhuj Asthan Temple, with its story of an idol brought on foot from Turki, and the Ramna Tripur Sundari Temple, known locally as the Devi Temple. At Sahu Pokhar, the Shri Ram Temple houses a Shivling said to be among India's largest, while the Simri Mai Temple near Muzaffarpur Engineering College in Avaas Nagar is revered as a Devi Peeth. Near Kalambagh Chowk, the Vaishno Devi Temple holds a replica of the Vaishno Devi sculpture of Jammu and is known for its halwa and chana prasad. Beyond the temples, the Ram Chandra Shahi Museum in Jubba Sahni Park holds a varied collection of artefacts and is noted for its rare postage stamps. The Khudi Ram Bose Memorial marks the memory of Khudi Ram Bose and Prafool Chaki, executed at Muzaffarpur Jail, with a tablet opposite the District and Sessions Judge's residence and a sign board in front of the Red Cross building. Further afield, Ambara Chowk, about 40 km away in Saraiya Block on the Muzaffarpur–Rewa road, is believed to be the home village of Amrapali, the famed courtesan of Vaishali. Katra Garh, roughly 35 km northeast, was once a Mughal-era state called Akbarpur, and excavations there have yielded idols, ornaments and earthen pots. Hathilwa-Mathh, also about 40 km from the city, is a temple dedicated to Radha-Krishna, while the Badi Masjid at Company Bagh and the Gurudwara at Ramna are both worth a visit. At Rajkhand, on the Aurai–Saidpur road, an old Bhairav Nath temple hosts a large cattle fair at Shivaratri.When to go
Muzaffarpur has a humid subtropical climate, with an extremely hot, humid summer and a pleasantly cool winter. It receives comparatively little rain for Bihar, so you are unlikely to have plans washed out, but the heat in the warm months is the main thing to plan around.
- Summer: This is the hottest stretch of the year, extremely hot and humid, with humidity reaching around 90%. Expect oppressive heat and plan your activities for early morning or evening.
- Winter: Winters are pleasantly cool, making this the most comfortable time to be outdoors and to explore the city. Mornings and nights are chilly, so layers help.
Three days in Muzaffarpur
Day one: Arrive at Muzaffarpur Junction, known locally as MFP, the busiest railway station in North Bihar and your gateway to Tirhut. Trains such as the Shaheed Express, Mithila Express, Maurya Express, Sadhbhawna Express, Vaishali Express, Amarnath Express, Bihar Sampark Kranti and Saptkranti Express connect the city with destinations across Indian, and you can check schedules on IRCTC. From Delhi, several services make the journey straightforward. By road, buses link Muzaffarpur with Patna, Siliguri, Guwahati, Ranchi and other towns, as well as Darbhanga, Madhubani, Bihar Sharif, Bhagalpur, Bodhgaya, Raxaul, Mehsi and Varanasi. Settle in and spend the evening getting your bearings.
Day two: Give the day to the city itself. Muzaffarpur is the capital of the Tirhut division and a major commercial centre for North Bihar, so its markets and streets are the main draw. Within Muzaffarpur, the cycle is a common way to get around, and it suits the flat terrain well. The Burhi Gandak River runs through the area, and its banks make an easy place to walk and watch the life of the town.
Day three: Use the morning for anything you missed, then make your onward plans. Because Muzaffarpur Junction sits on so many routes, you can continue by train toward Patna, Darbhanga, Raxaul or beyond, or take a bus to one of the nearby towns. If your time is short, keep the day simple: a last look at the river, a final turn through the bazaar, and then to the station.