Aizawl

Introduction

Aizawl is the capital of Mizoram in northeast India, a city built along the crest of a series of ridges at roughly 1,132 metres above sea level. That high, ridge-top setting shapes the place: expect steep streets, long views over the surrounding hills, and a climate cooler than the plains far below.

It is also the largest city in Mizoram and one of the biggest in the northeast, so it serves as the region's main hub for travel, commerce and culture. Come here to base yourself while exploring the state, and to get a feel for a hill capital that spreads across the ridgelines rather than outwards across flat ground.

Before you go

Getting there

Lengpui Airport (AJL) is the city's air link, with flights from New Delhi, Guwahati, Imphal, Kolkata and Silchar. If you arrive overland, buses connect Aizawl with the other Northeast state capitals, most usefully Guwahati, Shillong and Silchar; Network Travels runs luxury buses from Guwahati. The bus terminal sits in the Thuampui suburb, and while frequent city buses run there from the centre, the trip can take up to an hour, so a taxi is the quicker option.

Rail access is via Sairang station (SANG), served by a Rajdhani Express from Delhi's Anand Vihar Terminal plus two express trains from Guwahati and Kolkata. For road travel, ten-seat Sumo SUVs handle both intra- and inter-state routes, departing from different parts of the city depending on destination — the Guwahati–Silchar service leaves from the Zarkawt area.

Getting around

Aizawl is built along a mountain ridge, and that single fact shapes how you get around. Roads run more or less parallel to the mountainside rather than up and down it, so for vertical movement between the ridge top and the slopes below, a footpath is often faster than going by road. Steep inclines — frequently 30% or more — make even a short horizontal trip expensive to drive, and this is reflected in bus and taxi rates. Plan on walking for vertical movement and using vehicles for travel along the ridge.

Numerous bus routes connect the localities, most of them running through the town centre — roughly north to south via Dawrpui, and south to north via Civil Hospital. Fares vary by route, so ask the conductor. Note that no buses operate between the airport and the city. Taxis are plentiful and readily available, but rates are extremely high compared to the rest of India; although official published rates exist, in practice no taxi runs by them, with drivers arguing that a kilometre uphill costs more to run than downhill. Fares can rise if petrol prices go up or if a landslide blocks the main road and forces a longer alternate route. Sure Taxis will find and dispatch a taxi to your location and negotiate rates on your behalf at no charge to you, and also offers rental cars with a driver. Sumos — ten-seat SUVs used for both intra- and inter-state travel — depart from different parts of the city depending on destination, such as the Zarkawt area for the Guwahati–Silchar route.

Where to stay

Most of Aizawl's accommodation clusters around Zarkawt Main Street, which puts you within reach of transport connections and the Millennium Centre. Riak Maw Inn sits near the Sumo offices running from Silchar, and its owner is known for being helpful and knowledgeable about Mizo life and culture; food is available on site and includes typical Mizo dishes. Traveller's Inn, also on Zarkawt Main Street, is a budget option with single rooms partitioned by plywood walls and shared bathrooms, staffed by young and friendly people. Hotel Regency offers the most modern amenities in the area, with adequate parking and a range of rooms from singles and twins up to a presidential suite, with breakfast included in the listed rates.

If you would rather base yourself outside the centre, the government of Mizoram runs tourist lodges across the state, including two in the Aizawl suburbs. These are good value and worth considering if you have your own transport or don't mind being away from the main commercial strip.

Food & drink

Mizoram's alcohol ban has been lifted, but Aizawl still has no bars of any description. Licensed wine called Zawlaidi is sold in departmental stores, and casual non-alcoholic drinking spots are few: the two cafés, both part of a Zote Bakery outlet, sit in Dawrpui near the church and in Electric Veng. Don't expect a wide range of drinks there — it's milky tea or milky coffee from a Nescafe machine.

For food, Zarkawt Main Street has David's Kitchen and Hotel Millennium, which may open for limited hours with a limited menu, while street vendors sell fried vegetables and pakoras during the day. Curry Pot in Upper Khatla serves Indian and Chinese food at reasonable prices and has a branch at Lengpui Airport. In Chanmari, David's Kitchen is among the most popular restaurants in the city, with decent food and good service. Pemarin Corner occupies the first floor of Millennium Centre in the heart of the city and is one of the higher-end options; the same building holds smaller shops serving momos and Chinese dishes. In Lower Chanmari below New Life Hospital, 1 Chopstyx Restaurant is the only Tibetan restaurant in town. Note that on Sundays and holidays almost all stores and restaurants are closed.

What to see and do

When to go

Aizawl has a humid subtropical climate, with moderately warm summers, cooler winters, and a long wet season that runs from April to October. Most of the year's rain falls during these months, peaking in May, July, August, and September. Expect frequent heavy downpours and lush green surroundings, and be prepared for travel on the steep slopes to be affected by wet conditions.

• Wet season (April to October): the bulk of the year's rainfall, with the heaviest downpours in May, July, August, and September; the hills turn vividly green, but steep routes can be slippery and slow.
• Relatively dry season: drier conditions return, with cooler winter weather from December through February. Days are generally pleasant for exploring the city, though mornings and evenings can feel chilly.

Three days in Aizawl

Day one: Arrive at Lengpui Airport, the main gateway to Aizawl, or come in by road from Silchar, Guwahati, Shillong or Imphal. If you take the train, the nearest railhead is Sairang, and buses such as Network Travels also serve the route. Once in the city, settle into Zarkawt, a central neighbourhood handy for shops and onward transport. Roads in Aizawl are steep, so plan your walks and use sumo SUVs for longer hops.

Day two: Explore the neighbourhoods around Dawrpui and Thuampui, getting a feel for how the city spreads across its hillsides. Aizawl sits just south of the Tropic of Cancer, so expect warm and humid conditions for much of the year. The Mizos who call Mizoram home have shaped a city that feels distinct from the rest of India, and wandering its lanes is the best way to sense that character.

Day three: Take a longer excursion out of the centre, perhaps toward the area around Civil Hospital, and use the day to understand how Aizawl connects to the wider Northeast. Fares for shared sumo SUVs are the usual way to get around, and numerous routes link the city's neighbourhoods. Before you leave, sort out your onward travel - whether back to Lengpui Airport or toward Sairang for the rail network.