Ooty
Introduction
Ooty is a town in the Nilgiri Mountains of Tamil Nadu, and it serves as the seat of the Nilgiris district. Set high in the Western Ghats at an elevation of 2,240 metres, it has long carried the epithet "Queen of hill stations".
Your visit centres on that mountain setting: a hill station in the Nilgiris, in the Indian state of Tamil Nadu.
Before you go
Ooty sits in the Nilgiris, the Blue Mountains, and began as a hill station under the British, when it served as the summer headquarters of the Madras Presidency. The hills are home to five tribal communities — the Todas, Kurumbas, Paniyas, Irulas and Kotas — and the landscape is one of rolling hills under dense vegetation, with smaller hills and plateaus given over to tea gardens and eucalyptus. Large stretches are preserved as natural reserve forests, and you will need special permits to camp anywhere outside designated campsites.
Think of Ooty less as the destination itself than as the focal point for the country around it; touring the surrounding countryside by car is the thing not to miss. Be aware that the town is crowded and that tourism has strained its natural resources, bringing pollution, water shortages and heavy traffic. If you want the same climate with fewer pressures, the smaller towns of Coonoor and Kotagiri are off the beaten path, less than an hour away, and considerably cheaper.
Getting there
Ooty has no airport of its own. The nearest is Coimbatore, followed by Mysore, while Kozhikode serves the most destinations of the three. Each involves a road transfer of several hours, so plan your arrival with the onward journey in mind.
By rail, the Nilgiri Mountain Railway links Ooty with Mettupalayam. This meter-gauge line, known as the toy train, is a UNESCO Heritage Site under the Mountain Railways of India and uses rack and pinion technology, with a third rail governing the train's speed. Both steam and diesel engines work the route, which is long and slow; if time is short, you can join it at Coonoor instead. Ooty is also well connected by bus: direct services run from Coimbatore, Kozhikode and Mysore, operated by state transport corporations and private companies, with private schedules often bookable through Redbus. By car, the hills sit in Tamil Nadu close to the Karnataka and Kerala borders, reached by winding, heavily forested roads with many hair-pin bends. The Coimbatore–Mettupalayam–Coonoor–Ooty route is the most travelled and best maintained, and all roads into the Nilgiris carry nominal tolls. From Bangalore the drive is long, and a shorter diversion via Mudumalai, Masinagudi and Kalhatti cuts the distance but is narrow, steep and closed at night because it passes through jungle, which can mean waiting at the check post. Fuel and eateries are available around Masinagudi, but once past Mysore restaurants are scarce, so stock up before you climb.
Getting around
Ooty's core is compact enough to explore on foot, and strolling is part of the pleasure of a hill station — but remember you're at high altitude in mountainous terrain, so expect slopes and winding roads rather than flat, easy promenades. For sights outside the centre, you'll want a bus, auto rickshaw or taxi. Town buses run to all the important places in and around town and are a practical, inexpensive way to reach the main sights; the main Ooty bus stand is the hub both for arriving and for getting around. Taxis, tourist cabs and auto rickshaws are available in plenty. There are no standard rates except for tourist cabs, so fares are generally negotiated — agree on a price before you set off. Conducted sightseeing tours are arranged by private operators and by the Tamil Nadu Tourism Development Corporation (TTDC), with a few different day-trip routes and packages available by both bus and taxi.
Ooty has no airport, no metro and no tram; the only rail service is the Nilgiri Mountain Railway from Udagamandalam station to Mettupalayam, a meter-gauge "toy train" and UNESCO World Heritage Site that uses rack and pinion technology, with steam and diesel engines, on a long, slow and scenic climb. If you're short on time, you can join the route from Coonoor instead for a taste of the experience. A few cautions are worth keeping in mind. Even if you arrange a taxi through your hotel (including TTDC), verify with both the hotel and the operator beforehand that there are no hidden costs — drivers sometimes demand high parking fees and lunch even when these are already covered. Drivers may receive commission from remote restaurants and shops, so be wary of being taken to out-of-the-way places for lunch: these spots tend to be overpriced, the food can be cold, and the premises may not be clean beyond the façade. Be cautious about drivers' recommendations for accommodation too, since some take visitors to hotels where they earn a commission that gets added to your room tariff without your knowledge.
Where to stay
Ooty has no shortage of places to sleep, with hotels and inns to suit every budget. Rates are generally no more expensive than in most Indian cities, and the well-known Indian hotel chains are represented here. Where you stay shapes your trip: properties facing the lake or the surrounding hills trade convenience for views, while those in the centre put you within walking distance of the market, restaurants and transport.
- For a central base, look at hotels around Main Bazaar, close to the bus station and the horse race track, some with their own economical restaurants.
- Several places sit within a short walk of the railway station and bus stop, handy for the boat house, Thread Gardens and other attractions.
- If you want views and quiet, colonial-era villas and resorts on the outskirts offer hill scenery, cosy fireplaces and, in some cases, nearby walking trails.
- Budget options include lodges in the Lower Bazaar area and simple rooms inside the railway station itself.
- Homestays, cottages, resorts and tented stays are available a few kilometres from the bus stop and railway station, with attached washrooms, hot running water, food service and parking.
Expect the usual spread of amenities: restaurants and room service, laundry, travel desks, cable TV and parking, with group accommodation available at some larger properties. A handful of hotels are under Jain management, and one heritage property sits off Gymkhana Golf Link Road.
Food & drink
Ooty's restaurants lean heavily toward South Indian cooking, with North Indian options also available around town. For traditional South Indian fare, head to Hotel Sri Velmurugan on Walsham Road in Green fields, on the road linking Alankar Theatre in Ettines road with Commercial Road. Hotel Blue Hills on Commercial Road is known for non-vegetarian food and has been serving biriyani and other dishes for years. Near Juma Masjidh in Upper Bazar, Bismillah Hotel serves meat and fish dishes prepared in the style of Calicut. Navodaya Chaater Cafe on Willow bund road opens in the afternoon and offers vegetarian delicacies, including maggi. Earl's Secret sits at Kings Cliff.
For drinks, the Nilgiris are famous for tea, so make a point of trying the local brew while you're in Ooty. You'll also find Krishan Prabhas in lower bazaar, near the bus stand.
What to see and do
For panoramic views, head to Doddabetta Peak, the highest in the Nilgiri range, where a telescope house and marked boards help you identify the surrounding area; on a clear day you can see as far as the Coimbatore plains and the highlands of Mysore. Note that the peak sits in a wildlife zone and can only be reached by car or auto, as trekking is not permitted. The Annamalai Temple, a well-known shrine to Lord Muruga, also offers fine views and an observatory at the top of its hill. Closer to town, the Government Botanical Gardens, laid out in the nineteenth century, are a draw for nature lovers, with rare ferns, shrubs and a tree fossil among the plantings; a summer festival with flower shows and cultural programs is held here each May. The Rose Garden terraces an enormous collection of roses across several levels, with fountains and paved paths, though the blooms are at their best from late April to early June. You can also wander the pine forest down to the waters of the Kamaraj Sagar Dam, take in the pleasant outlook at Shooting Point, and see Echo Rock, which some call Lamb's Rock for its lamb-like shape. Among the town's landmarks, Adam's Fountain at Charring Cross is an ornate nineteenth-century fountain built by public subscription, while the Government Museum occupies the first stone house in Ooty and holds galleries on the flora, fauna and tribal communities of the Nilgiri district, along with archaeology and numismatics. The Toda Temple, reached through the Botanical Gardens, is an inverted U-shaped bamboo structure at the centre of a sunken circular enclosure; outsiders may not enter, but you can see the motifs of sun, moon, stars and buffaloes at its entrance, and buffaloes often graze nearby. Ooty's churches are worth a look: St. Stephen's, the oldest in the district, sits on a hilltop with stained glass, memorial plaques and a graveyard, and its compound gate marks the zero stone from which distances from Ooty are measured; Holy Trinity Church stands opposite; and the twin-towered Sacred Heart Cathedral dominates the skyline, its interior lit by large painted glass windows and lined with statues. Fern Hills Palace, the Mysore Maharaja's palace-turned-hotel, opens its beautiful estate to guests, and Wax World, set in a very old house, is a modest private museum. For activities, the Boat House offers paddle and speed boat rides, a pirate ship, flying saucer and toy train, plus eateries and a family-friendly atmosphere. You can also ride the Nilgiri Mountain Railway with its blue-and-cream wooden coaches, walk and hike the surrounding hills, tour a tea plantation or factory, explore the countryside by 4x4, or play a round at the Gymkhana Golf course.When to go
Ooty has a subtropical highland climate, so temperatures stay mild through the year. That said, the timing of your trip matters a great deal, because the town sees heavy rain during both the south-west and north-east monsoons.
- South-west monsoon: One of the wettest stretches of the year. You get lush green scenery, but expect frequent downpours and muddy conditions.
- North-east monsoon: Another spell of heavy rainfall. Be prepared for wet weather and possible travel disruptions.
- Winter: Cool and chilly, especially at night, though days are generally pleasant for sightseeing.
- Summer: Mild and a welcome escape from the heat of the plains. This is a popular time to visit, so expect more crowds.
Three days in Ooty
Day one: Settle into Ooty itself, the main town of the Nilgiris in Tamil Nadu, and take your time getting used to the hill air. The Nilgiri Mountain Railway, a UNESCO Heritage Site, is the classic way in from Mettupalayam, and the ride up through the Western Ghats is a good introduction to the Blue Mountains. Once you are in town, walk rather than rush, and let the British-era character of the place set the pace.
Day two: Use Ooty as your base for the smaller hill towns around it. Coonoor and Kotagiri are both within reach, and each has its own quieter feel compared with the main town. This is also a chance to learn something of the people who have long lived in these mountains, among them the Todas, Kotas, Kurumbas, Paniyas and Irulas.
Day three: Think about how you want to leave. The Nilgiri Mountain Railway runs back down to Mettupalayam, while Coimbatore, Mysore and Kozhikode are the other main gateways, connecting the hills to both Karnataka and Kerala. If you are booking onward travel, Redbus is one option for the road routes. However you go, give yourself a slow morning in Ooty before you descend.