Bharatpur
Introduction
Bharatpur sits in the Indian state of Rajasthan, within the National Capital Region and roughly midway between Delhi to the north and Agra to the east, with Mathura close by to the northeast. It serves as the administrative headquarters of both Bharatpur district and Bharatpur Division, and it was once the capital of the former Bharatpur State.
For the traveller, that position makes the city a natural stop on a route through northern India: Delhi, Jaipur, Agra and Mathura all lie within a few hours' reach, so Bharatpur can anchor a wider circuit rather than stand alone.
Getting there
To reach Bharatpur by air, fly into Delhi or Jaipur, the nearest international airports, then continue overland. The train is the most direct option: Bharatpur Junction is an important railway junction on the Agra Fort–Bandikui branch line, and many services between Delhi and Kota, plus all trains between Jaipur and Agra, stop here. Allow three to five hours from Delhi depending on the type of train, while the trip from Agra takes about an hour. The station is also connected to Mathura, Mumbai, Kolkata and most other major cities across India. By road, from Delhi or Mathura take NH44 to Mathura, which lies about 45 km from Bharatpur on State Highway 1. National Highway 21, a four-lane highway, links Bharatpur with both Jaipur and Agra; the roughly 200 km from Jaipur can be covered in a little under four hours, and Agra is only about 60 km away.Getting around
Bharatpur is a compact city, and getting around relies on road transport: auto rickshaws, cycle rickshaws and a limited number of local buses. There is no metro or tram network, so plan on rickshaws and buses for day-to-day movement. Auto rickshaws are the most preferred mode and are available from both the bus station and the railway station, serving almost all the attractions in town. Fares are not metered, so agree on a price with the driver before boarding. Shared auto rickshaws are the cheapest option for popular places in the city, while private ones cost more but give you the vehicle to yourself.
Cycle rickshaws are cheaper than autos and popular with tourists, but slower, which suits short distances within town rather than long cross-city trips. Local buses are few in number and therefore often overcrowded; they are cheap and used by locals for travel within and around the city. Walking works best for short hops between nearby sights and for getting around within a particular area of town, but for longer trips across the city or out to Keoladeo Ghana National Park, Lohagarh Fort, the Government Museum, Deeg Fort and the various temples, use a cycle rickshaw or auto rickshaw instead. For onward travel to Delhi, Jaipur, Agra, Mathura and beyond, Bharatpur Junction is your main gateway.
Where to stay
Where you sleep in Bharatpur depends largely on how you want to spend your days. If the bird sanctuary is your priority, Swaraj Resorts sits directly across the road from the Keoladeo Bird Sanctuary on NH-11, putting you within walking distance of the wetlands; it offers a pool, wifi, a multi-cuisine restaurant, a well-stocked bar and a lush green garden, with check-in at 1PM and check-out at noon. For a heritage stay, Laxmi Vilas Palace Hotel (also known as Kakaji ki Kothi) provides thirty spacious rooms with modern amenities and facilities.
Budget travellers can look to Shagun Guest House in Nawab Gali, inside Mathura Gate in Tara Mahendra Colony, where rooms come with shared bathrooms. Note that the guest house distinguishes between single and double occupancy, so specify your needs when booking.
Food & drink
Bharatpur's eating options are limited but straightforward. For an open-air meal, head to Buns and Tins, where you can eat without being closed in by walls. Saras Hotel is another option if you're looking for a sit-down meal in town. The source lists no bars, cafes or other drinking establishments, so plan your evening refreshments around your hotel or the restaurants above rather than expecting a dedicated drinking scene.What to see and do
Lohagarh Fort is the city's defining sight, built by the Jat ruler Maharaja Suraj Mal in the 18th century and ringed by a moat that survives intact. It is remembered as one of the few forts in India the British never took, despite a six-week siege in 1805. You enter through two gates: Chowbruj, the four-pillared gate to the south, and Astadhatu, the eight-metal gate to the north. Little of the original interior remains, since schools and hospitals now occupy much of it, but you can still see Jawahar Burj, raised by Raja Jawahar Singh in 1765 to mark his victory over the Mughals at the Battle of Delhi, and Kishori Mahal. A museum sits inside the fort. South of the fort stands Ganga Maharani Temple, built by Maharaja Balwant Singh in 1845. Elsewhere in the city you can visit Jama Masjid, the main mosque, a sandstone structure raised by Hindu Jat rulers, and Laxman Temple, which is four hundred years old. Among the city's temples, Ganeshthan Temple is the most famous, while Devghat is counted among the holiest Hindu places. The Keoladeo Bird Sanctuary, also known as Ghana, was developed by the Maharaja of Bharatpur and is one of the few natural UNESCO World Heritage Sites in India. Plan your visit for the cooler months, roughly October to February, when migratory birds fill the park; outside that window it can be relatively bird free. Early morning and early evening are the best times for spotting birds. You can hire a bike at your hotel or at the entrance as an alternative way to get around the park.Three days in Bharatpur
Day one: Begin in Bharatpur itself, arriving by rail at Bharatpur Junction or by road on the National Highway or State Highway that link the city with Delhi, Agra, Jaipur, Mathura, Bandikui, Kota, Mumbai and Kolkata. Once you are settled, spend the afternoon at Lohagarh Fort, the old stronghold at the heart of the city, and then look through the Government Museum. For getting around, you can choose an auto, a shared vehicle, a cycle or simply walking; fares are modest, but agree them before you set off.
Day two: Give the whole day to Keoladeo Ghana National Park, also known as the Keoladeo Bird Sanctuary. This is the reason many travellers come to Bharatpur, and it rewards slow, patient time rather than a rushed circuit. Go early, when the air is cool and the birds are active, and plan to stay for several hours. You can move through the park on foot or by cycle, both of which let you watch without disturbing what you have come to see.
Day three: Head out to Deeg Fort, the other great fort of the region, and take in its setting before returning to Bharatpur. If you have time left, wander the streets of the city and eat Indian food in a local restaurant; Swaraj Resorts is one option for a meal or a base. Bharatpur sits within the National Capital Region and within Rajasthan, and its position on the rail and road routes between Delhi, Agra and Jaipur makes it easy to continue onward when your three days are done.