Brahmapur travel guide

Brahmapur, India

By the Travel Wiki editorial team

Brahmapur

Introduction

Brahmapur, also called Berhampur, sits on the eastern coastline of Odisha and is known as the Silk City of Odisha. It is also called the food capital of Odisha, so you can plan your days around its silk trade and its eating.

Before you go

Brahmapur, previously known as Berhampur and nicknamed "The Silk City", sits on the eastern coastline of Odisha. It is not a tourist city, so plan accordingly: expect to be asked, if you are from outside India, whether you work for Gram Vikas, the rural development NGO located 14 km outside the city that hosts international volunteers each year.

The biggest hazard you will face is the chaotic traffic. Look both ways before crossing a street, even on a one-way street. Keep your belongings close and in a safe place, particularly around the train station and the Old Bus Stand; a police station stands right next to the Old Bus Stand, in front of Nandan Hotel.

Getting there

Brahmapur is easiest to reach by rail. The city's station sits on the East Coast Railways network, roughly two and a half hours from Bhubaneswar and about three and a half hours from Visakhapatnam. It is a major stop on the Kolkata–Chennai line, so plenty of trains pass through every day and it works well as a break in a longer journey. Services also link Puri with Brahmapur, and another option is to take a train to Khurda Road Junction and switch there for Brahmapur (Berhampur).

If you fly, Bhubaneswar Airport is the gateway, served by a range of national low-cost and full-service airlines. From there you can pick up one of the many daily trains between Bhubaneswar and Brahmapur. Buses also serve the city and generally cost less than the train, but they arrive at the New Bus Terminal some distance outside the centre, so you will need an auto-rickshaw or cycle rickshaw for the last stretch into town.

Getting around

Auto-rickshaws are the main way to get around Brahmapur and the option most visitors rely on for short trips; cycle rickshaws are also available, slower but cheaper. For both, agree on the price up front and expect to bargain. Taxis cost more than auto-rickshaws but are more comfortable for longer drives, and you'll find them in front of the large hotels around the Old Bus Stand or Barracks area, which is the centre of town — bargain for your fare up front here too. There is no metro or tram, so plan on road transport throughout.

Brahmapur railway station, on the East Coast Railways network, is a major stop on the Kolkata–Chennai line with many trains daily, and there are also many trains connecting Puri; you can change at Khurda Road Junction if it suits your route. The usual way to complete the journey by air is to fly into Bhubaneswar and continue by train, since frequent daily trains link the two. From the railway station or the New Bus Terminal, reach the centre by auto-rickshaw or cycle rickshaw, or by taxi from the hotel area around the Old Bus Stand. Walking may be feasible for the last stretch to a hotel or a nearby errand, but for getting between the station, the bus terminal and the city centre, plan on a vehicle.

Where to stay

Brahmapur has plenty of hotels and lodges in and around the city, and most are quite affordable, with only a few exceptions. For a simple, small stay, look to Sri Balaji Lodge at Gate Bazar in Mohuda, or Nandini Guest House & Restaurant on New Bus Stand Road in Brahmanagar, which has its own restaurant. Hotel Satya Sai on Kamapalli Main Road in Ram Nagar puts you in the middle of the city, with a view over the busy street.

If you want to be in the centre, the mid-range options serve you best: Hotel Bhubaneswari Classic sits near Annapurna Market with free Wi-Fi, and Vinayak Bhavan is on the city's main road. Hotel Anarkali, next to Gandhi Park in Gandhi Nagar, is a good place to find a deal, while Mamata Guest House near the railway station suits you if you rely on public transport. At the top end, Hotel Sri Balaji and Hotel Kama's Inn are both a bit pricey but strong on service, and Kama's Inn includes free breakfast. Check-in and check-out times vary by property, so confirm yours when you book.

Food & drink

Brahmapur is known across India for its papad, aachard (pickles) and badis, and you'll find these local specialities worth seeking out. Eating options range from street stalls to smart hotel restaurants. Not every stall is sanitary, so watch how the food is handled before you commit, and favour the busy ones where turnover keeps things fresh.

Drinking is a different matter. Brahmapur is a fairly conservative city, so bars are rare, almost exclusively male territory and often pretty shady. The nicest of them is probably Regency Bar, between Nandan Hotel and Jyoti Residency, but women are very rarely patrons of these establishments and may be refused service altogether, so solo female travellers should avoid them. Restaurants and hotels do not serve alcohol.

What to see and do

Brahmapur is a busy, crowded business city, and much of what you'll do here happens in its markets and on its streets. Wander the bazaars and haggle for souvenirs, Odisha handicraft or handwoven khadi fabric, then pause for a chai or lassi at one of the many street stalls around the city centre, or grab a quick meal from a street food stall near the Ramlinga Tank. The city also has a long tradition of theatre, and its residents are passionate about cinema: it's known for its cinema theatre complexes, among them Gautam, Rukmini, Shiva, Shakti, Payal and Paramjyoti, where Hindi films are the most popular draw, followed by Odia, with English and Telugu screenings on a regular basis.

Among the sights, Biju Patnaik Park on Giri Market Road is a place to go with family and friends, while Selfie Point on the Daringbadi–Gopalpur Road in Forest Colony is a garden with a fountain where people come to relax and take photos. Dakhinapura Ghai on SH 17 is a waterbody not quite big enough to be called a lake, with a soothing view, and the old abandoned Ramaguda Reservoir lies at Ramaguda. For pilgrimage, Maa Taratarini Shaktipeeth sits atop a hill near the Rushikulya River at Raipur and is a major centre for the Shakta sect of Hinduism; the Maa Sidhhabhairabi and Jagannath temples at Mantridi draw devotees from across southern Odisha and northern Andhra Pradesh, especially on Sankranti days and on Tuesdays. Further out, Taptapani is known for its hot springs, set at about 1,800 feet above sea level and roughly 56 km from the city's railway station, with the sprawling Panthanivas as the only shelter for tourists there.

Three days in Brahmapur

Day one: Start in Brahmapur, the Silk City of Odisha, and get your bearings around the Old Bus Stand and Gate Bazar, where the town's textile trade gives the place its character. Keep an eye out for silk and handloom work as you wander. In the evening, settle in at one of the local lodges such as Sri Balaji Lodge or Nandini Guest House, and eat at a local restaurant.

Day two: Head out to Mohuda, where the NGO Gram Vikas is based, to see a different side of the region. Return to Brahmapur in the afternoon and explore more of the town on foot or by cycle, taking in the streets around Gate Bazar. In the evening, try a meal at Nandan Hotel.

Day three: Use Brahmapur's transport links for a day trip or onward travel. East Coast Railways connects the town with Bhubaneswar, Puri, Khurda Road Junction, Visakhapatnam, Kolkata and Chennai, while buses run from the New Bus Terminal and taxis and autos are available locally. If you are flying, Bhubaneswar Airport is the nearest option.

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