Imphal
Introduction
Imphal is the capital city of the Indian state of Manipur, spread across the districts of Imphal West and Imphal East. At its metropolitan centre you'll find the ruins of Kangla Palace, once the royal seat of the former Kingdom of Manipur, still encircled by a moat.
The city is a prominent commercial hub, known for its weaving, brass-ware, bronze-ware and other cottage industries, and it takes part in the Smart Cities Mission under the Ministry of Housing and Urban Affairs.
Before you go
Imphal sits at an elevation of nearly 800 metres, which gives it a cooler, more pleasant climate than most of India. Winters can drop below freezing, while summers are wetter and more humid, with monsoon rains peaking in June and July. October is an ideal time to visit, when the rains turn the whole town a lush green. Many travellers pass straight through, but it is worth staying at least a day to see Kangla fort, buy supplies and recover from long bus rides. Meitei, officially known as Manipuri, is the official language and the mother tongue of most people in the city, though English is the second most widely studied and understood language, and you can expect at least basic English in the tourism and public transport sectors. Learning a few Meitei terms such as "hi", "hello" and "thank you" will be helpful and appreciated. Manipur has been affected by internal and international armed conflict for over 30 years; Imphal city itself is safe for travellers, but the outskirts and the rural and mountainous areas around the city are dangerous, especially at night, and police may forcibly send you back to the city centre if you venture or try to hitchhike there. Avoid involvement in anything strange and walk away. The risk of violence is higher on Indian national days such as Republic Day on 26 January and Independence Day on 15 August, and during elections. Manipur's traditionally matrilineal culture means women and girls will not be gawked at by strangers and enjoy a similar level of freedom to that of Western countries.Getting there
Imphal is served by Bir Tikendrajit International Airport (IMF), with flights connecting the city to Delhi, Hyderabad, Bangalore, Mumbai, Kolkata, Aizwal, Dimapur and Guwahati. Air India, Alliance Air and IndiGo all operate services here, and if you are arriving from Bangkok, expect to route via Kolkata.
There is no railway station in Imphal itself, though a new line is under construction. For now, the closest station is Jiribam, roughly 80 km to the west, while Dimapur in Nagaland sees far more traffic and is reached onward by a seven-hour bus ride. By road, daily buses run between Imphal and Kohima, Dimapur and Guwahati. From Kohima, a government bus leaves the main terminal in the morning and seats often sell out; if you miss it, you can take a shared or private jeep to Mao gate at the state boundary and pick up a second bus from there around 11AM, or continue to Senapati for more options. Shared tuk-tuks from Mao gate to Imphal are also possible, though uncomfortable. From Moreh, state buses depart the bus yard at 7AM, 1PM and 1:30PM.
Getting around
Imphal has no railway, metro or tram system of its own, so getting around relies on shared minivans, tuk-tuks, taxis and walking. Minivans run common routes around the city and out to neighbouring villages, making them the closest thing to a local bus network for a visitor. Tuk-tuks are common and are the most straightforward way to make short trips; agree on the fare before you set off, since drivers frequently ask for far more than the going rate for a short hop.
There is no app-based ride-hailing described here, so plan on arranging tuk-tuks, shared jeeps and taxis directly. Walking works for individual sights and nearby streets — Kangla Palace sits on the banks of the Imphal River within the built-up city, and the valley's elevation and surrounding hills keep the climate moderate — but treat it as a way to cover a site, not as a primary way to cross the city. From Bir Tikendrajit International Airport, no dedicated shuttle or bus service is detailed, so use the same tuk-tuks and taxis that serve the rest of Imphal and settle the fare in advance.
Where to stay
Imphal's budget accommodation clusters in the central city area and along MG Avenue, where you'll find single rooms at places such as Hotel Avenue, Hotel City Heart, White Palace and The Classic Hotel. The Classic Hotel, in North AOC, throws in free breakfast and Wi-Fi and has two lavish restaurants on site. Hotel Gaylord is one of the cheapest options in the central city area, with single rooms and shared bathrooms, while Hotel Yaisana offers single rooms with shared bathrooms. A block south of the polo grounds, Hotel Prince has double rooms.
Further out, north of Kangla next to the sports complex, a government youth hostel provides clean, strictly run accommodation with more than fifty beds, a nice garden, Wi-Fi and secure parking near the office. It's further from town than the other options but less seedy, and stays are limited to three days.
Food & drink
Bamboo shoot preparations are considered delicacies in Imphal, and the cooking draws on the wider traditions of northeastern India. Be sure to try the local hot chilli, known locally as "Umorok". Budget restaurants cluster near the bus stop, so you won't struggle to find an inexpensive meal.
- Forage, on the second floor of KokSamLai Tower on DM College Road in Thangmeiband, serves diverse international cuisine with an exotic touch; try the fermented iced teas and soybean smoked pork.
- Luxmi Kitchen in Wahengbam Leikai, Sagolband, offers genuine Manipuri food with plentiful options for vegetarians and meat eaters alike, but the dishes are full of chilli and not recommended if you can't take spicy food.
- The People's Cafe, near the market on the road leading to Kangla Fort on the south side of the overpass, is a semi-western cafe with instant coffee, reasonable food and good people-watching.
Alcohol is banned, though you may still be able to buy some if you ask hotel staff or visit certain small restaurants behind the polo ground in an alley — expect to pay double the list price, and don't hang out there at night. Local drinks include Mujikund, a local wine and beer, and Sekmai, a traditional liquor made from rice. Sekmai is a very strong traditional rice wine similar to Chinese baiju, often homemade, with savoury characteristics and yeast sometimes taken from local tree roots.
What to see and do
In Imphal you can trace Manipur's history through its museums and monuments. The Manipur State Museum on Kangla Road holds portraits of Manipuri royalty, tribal costumes, polo equipment and weapons, with a 78-foot royal boat displayed in its open-air gallery. In the centre of the city, Kangla Fort is entered through the west gate; its palace and fortifications long defended the Manipuris against invading neighbours before the British took the fortress in the 1891 Anglo-Manipur War. Much of the site is now open land, but it contains gardens, traditional boats, small museums, a temple and an information centre, and it makes a good spot for a picnic. Further afield, the Khongjom War Memorial at Lamding Mamang Leikai in Thoubal marks the last stand of the princely state against the British in 1891. For gardens and religious sites, head to Matai in Imphal East, where the Matai Garden, also called Ibudhou Asheiningthou Garden, is known for its many well-shaped Duranta plants. In Sagolband, Kwakeithel, toward Tidim Road, the Sambal-Lei-Sekpil garden is known for its topiary fence of flowers, a form that once earned a place in the Guinness Book of Records. The Shree Govindajee Temple, near the former royal palace, served as the highest place for cultural activity during the time of the maharajas and has two domes and a raised congregation hall. Ema Panthoibi Shanglen is a sacred Panthoibi site.When to go
Imphal has a humid subtropical climate, with cool, dry winters and a slightly hot monsoon season, both moderated by the city's altitude and the surrounding hills. Winter is dry and cool: January is the coldest month, when nights often drop near freezing and occasionally below it, frost appears on some mornings, and fog is common before clearing by noon. Days in winter are generally pleasant, making this a good time to explore the valley and the hills.
In the run-up to the rains, thunder becomes common and temperatures build toward the hottest months, though the heat stays moderate rather than extreme thanks to the altitude and hills. The monsoon itself brings the year's heaviest rain, with June and July the wettest months and thunder common throughout; expect frequent wet days and lush green hills, and keep your travel plans flexible. As the rains ease, conditions turn drier and cooler on the way into winter, with thunder still possible in the tail of the rainy season and fog becoming more likely in the dry mornings as the season progresses.
Three days in Imphal
Day one: Base yourself in Imphal West and start at Kangla Palace, the old royal seat of the Meitei kingdom, where the Kangla fort grounds give you a sense of the city's history before you explore the surrounding streets. Imphal is the capital of Manipur, and the city spreads across Imphal West and Imphal East, so use your first day to get your bearings between the two. In the evening, eat where the locals do and try Manipuri dishes; English is widely understood, and Manipuri is the main language you will hear.
Day two: Head into Imphal East for markets and neighbourhood life, then return to the centre for more of the city's landmarks. Imphal is part of the Smart Cities Mission, run by the Ministry of Housing and Urban Affairs, so some areas are being redeveloped while older quarters keep their character. If you are learning about the region, this is a good day to slow down and talk to people rather than rush between sights.
Day three: Take a longer look at what you missed, whether that is more time around Kangla or a wander through the bazaars. Winters are the most comfortable season for walking, while the monsoon months of June and July bring heavy rain, and October is pleasant. Avoid Republic Day in January and Independence Day in August if you want quieter streets, since these are major national holidays. Bir Tikendrajit International Airport connects Imphal with Delhi, Hyderabad, Bangalore, Mumbai, Kolkata, Aizwal, Dimapur and Guwahati, so plan your onward travel from there.