Ponnani

Introduction

Ponnani is a municipality and the administrative centre of its taluk and block panchayat in Malappuram District, Kerala. It sits at the estuary of the Bharatappuzha on the river's southern bank, with the Arabian Sea bounding it to the west and a series of brackish lagoons along its southern edge.

Those three waters — river, sea and lagoon — define the town's setting, so expect a coastal Kerala atmosphere of warm, humid weather. The source gives little more on what to see and do, so treat this as a starting point and plan around the waterfront geography that shapes the place.

Before you go

Ponnani is an ancient fishing port at the mouth of the Bharathappuzha river, identified with the Tyndis of Roman accounts. It is also a Muslim cultural centre, with about 50 masjids across the town, and in older times it served as a Muslim pilgrim centre — so much so that people called it "the small Mecca". Knowing this history will help you read the town's religious character and its long-standing ties to the sea.

Getting there

You can reach Ponnani by bus from Palakkad, Kozhikode and Thrissur. If you prefer to travel by rail, the nearest railway station is at Tirur. The nearest airport is at Kondotty.

Getting around

Ponnani is a compact port town at the mouth of the Bharathappuzha, and road transport is the backbone of getting around. The KSRTC Bus Stand is the hub for state-run services, with Ordinary, Limited Stop, Fast Passenger and Superfast classes reaching Kozhikode, Guruvayur, Thrissur, Palakkad, Tirur, Malappuram, Kuttippuram, Kottakkal, Kodungallur and Ernakulam, as well as nearby pilgrimage and beach spots. Buy your ticket on board from the conductor and keep small notes handy, since fares are paid in cash. For short hops within town, autorickshaws are the most convenient option, particularly with luggage or when a bus doesn't go quite where you need; agree on the fare or confirm the meter before you set off. Air-conditioned taxis can be hired by the day if you plan to cover several places or want a car at your disposal for beach and river trips, and for longer point-to-point journeys you can ask at your hotel or the bus stand about arranging one.

• Buses are the main way in and out of town, with the KSRTC Bus Stand as your reference point for onward connections.
• Autorickshaws suit short trips within town; settle the fare first.
• The Jhankar boat service to Padincharekkara runs from 7 AM to 7 PM and carries both passengers and cars, making it a practical crossing as well as a scenic one.
• Much of the centre — around the canal, the mosques and the market streets — is manageable on foot, but be prepared for heat and humidity and use autorickshaws for longer legs or trips to the beaches.
• Ponnani has no railway station; the nearest is at Tirur, which is also served by buses from Ponnani, so the usual approach is a train to Tirur followed by a bus or taxi into town.
• The nearest airport is at Kondotty, reached by road via a direct taxi or a combination of bus services.
• The old Cannoly Canal bisects the town, so check which side your destination is on before you set out.

Where to stay

Ponnani has only a handful of places to stay, and they are scattered rather than clustered in a single travellers' quarter. Jinnen Tourist Home sits at Veliyancode, while Nila Residency is in Thirunnavaya; both are simple local lodgings rather than large hotels. The PWD Rest House Government Lodge is the other option, a government-run guesthouse of the kind found across Kerala.

Because the choices are so few and spread across different areas, it pays to decide first which part of town you want to be based in, then pick from what is available there. Book ahead rather than arriving and hoping, especially if you are travelling at a busy time.

Food & drink

Ponnani's eating places are straightforward local restaurants rather than destination dining. Near the old Masjid, on the bank of the big pond, Haneena Restaurant is known for mutta pathiri and beef fry — a good introduction to the region's Muslim-influenced cooking if you want to eat where the dishes are the draw.

• Bomaby Restaurant, Ponnani
• Haneena Restaurant, near the old Masjid on the bank of the big pond — mutta pathiri and beef fry
• Royal City, Highway Junction, Kavumopuram, Kuttippuram — multi-cuisine

The source lists no bars or drinking establishments, so plan your evening around food rather than nightlife.

What to see and do

Ponnani's sights are spread between the waterfront and the town's older quarters. At Biyyam Kayal you can see the hanging bridge over the water, and the kayal is the venue of an annual boat race. On the southern side stands the lighthouse, while the fishing harbour gives a look at the working life of the coast. A jankar ride on the Ponnani ferry across to Tirur is a way to take in the water and the shore together.

Inland, the Ponnani Juma Masjidh is the town's best-known monument; it was built in 925 of the Hijra calendar and is mentioned by the historian William Logan in his Malabar Manual. The campus of M.E.S. College is noted for its scenery, and the Saraswathy Temple at Thrikkavu is another local place of worship. Karma Road is a street worth wandering.

Three days in Ponnani

Day one: Start in Ponnani itself, getting your bearings in this Malappuram District town where the Bharatappuzha meets the Arabian Sea. Spend the morning around the river mouth, watching the boats and the water that made the town a port since the days of Tyndis and Roman trade. In the afternoon, look at the Muslim heritage that links Ponnani to Mecca and the wider world of Indian Ocean exchange. Stay overnight in town.

Day two: Use Ponnani as your base for the wider district. Buses from the KSRTC Bus Stand connect you to Tirur, Kondotty, Kuttippuram and Kottakkal, and services range from Ordinary and Limited Stop to Fast Passenger and Superfast. Pick one or two of these towns for a half-day outing, then return to Ponnani for the evening. Autorickshaws are useful for short hops around town.

Day three: Take a longer day trip further afield. Buses run to Guruvayur, Malappuram, Kozhikode, Thrissur, Palakkad, Kodungallur and Ernakulam, so you can choose a destination that suits your interests. Back in Ponnani, spend your last evening along Padincharekkara and, if you want a meal out, try The Jhankar.