Tinsukia

Introduction

Tinsukia is an industrial city in Assam, in India's northeast, and serves as the administrative headquarters of Tinsukia District. It lies far to the north-east of Guwahati, and the border with Arunachal Pradesh is a short distance away.

Use the city as a practical base for this part of upper Assam: it is a working industrial and administrative centre rather than a resort town, so plan your days around the services and transport connections a district headquarters provides.

Before you go

Getting there

Tinsukia has no airport of its own, so most travellers arrive by air via Dibrugarh Airport and continue overland. Taxis waiting outside the airport are the costliest option for the run into Tinsukia; a cheaper route is to leave by the main exit gate and take a shuttle auto to Mohanbari Bus Stop on NH37, where you can pick up buses, autos or Wingers for the rest of the journey to Tinsukia.

• By train: New Tinsukia railway station (NTSK) is well connected with the rest of the country, and many long-distance trains serve it.
• By bus: ISBT Tinsukia has daily bus services from Guwahati, Dibrugarh and other places in Assam.

Getting around

Tinsukia has no metro or tram system, so you'll get around by road: auto-rickshaws are the standard way to cover short hops within town and to reach bus stops and transport hubs, while local and regional buses and Wingers (shared passenger vehicles) serve routes in and around the city and along the NH37 corridor. Taxis are available but tend to be the more expensive option, particularly for airport transfers.

If you're arriving by air, note that Tinsukia has no airport of its own; the nearest is Dibrugarh Airport. Taxis wait outside the airport but are the costly choice for the trip into Tinsukia. On a budget, walk to the main exit gate and take a shuttle auto to Mohanbari Bus Stop on NH37, then continue by bus, auto or Winger. With luggage and a preference for convenience, a direct taxi is the simpler option. For longer trips, New Tinsukia railway station handles long-distance trains, and ISBT Tinsukia is the main intercity bus terminal, with daily services to Guwahati, Dibrugarh and other parts of Assam — keep it in mind as your departure point when planning onward travel.

Where to stay

Lodging in Tinsukia is limited, and the source material covers only the budget end of the scale. In Digboi, Hotel Galaxy is the one option noted: it serves good food compared with other places, and the rooms are cheap, but you should expect the basics to be missing — no attached bathrooms and none of the facilities you would get at a starred hotel. Treat it as somewhere to sleep rather than a place to linger.

Beyond that, the source lists no mid-range or splurge accommodation, so plan on simple, budget-level stays and set your expectations accordingly.

Food & drink

For everyday eating in Tinsukia, the roadside food stalls are the place to start. You'll find an array of fast foods at these stalls, particularly near the supermarket, opposite the old railway station, and near Vishal megamart. Two other names to keep in mind are Madhu Milan in New Market and MB's on GNB Road.

For something more substantial, head to GNB Road, where both Hotel Centre Point and Hotel Royal Highness serve mid-range meals. Hasty Tasty in the Ranghar commercial complex and KF at ATC Mall are further options in the same bracket. When it comes to drinking, bars and pubs are plentiful and a very cheap option; the only lounge bar in the city is KF's at ATC Mall.

What to see and do

Tinsukia itself is a busy, industrial town with narrow roads, but the countryside around it is the reason to come: endless stretches of tea garden that overwhelm you as soon as you step outside the town. About forty-five minutes away is Guijan, where you can see the ruins of the Muttack Rajahs' kingdom. Guijan Ghat, on the banks of the Dibru River, is a scenic riverside spot with eco-tourism facilities, sunset views over the wide river channels and good birdwatching; you can visit for the day or stay overnight in a luxury houseboat, with moonlight fishing, bonfires and river cruising on offer. Within Tinsukia, the Tilinga Mandir is named for the Assamese word for bell and holds one of the largest collections of bells of all types, shapes and sizes, a tradition that began with visitors promising to donate a bell if their prayers were answered; the temple dates from 1965, when tea garden workers found a Shiva Linga emerging naturally from the ground near an ancient Peepal tree. Na-pukhuri Park, meaning nine ponds, is a cluster of nine interconnected ponds dating back to 1792, now laid out with paved pathways, jogging tracks and a triple cascade fountain.

For wildlife, head to Dibru Saikhowa National Park, about 25 km from the old railway station, where you can see many migratory birds, including the white deohah, and ornithologists are on hand to guide you. Ninety minutes from Tinsukia lies Digboi, home to the first oil refinery in Asia.

Three days in Tinsukia

Day one: Arrive via Dibrugarh Airport and take a taxi into Tinsukia, or come by Winger from Guwahati or Dibrugarh and alight at ISBT Tinsukia or Mohanbari Bus Stop. Settle into lodging around New Tinsukia or near New Market, where Hotel Centre Point and Hotel Galaxy sit close to the shops and eateries of MB and GNB Road. Spend the afternoon getting your bearings in the town centre and eat simply at Madhu Milan or Vishal.

Day two: Head out into Tinsukia District, using the town as your base for the day. The district stretches toward the borders of Arunachal Pradesh, and the surrounding country is green and humid through much of the year, so plan your outings for the cooler morning hours. Return to New Tinsukia in the evening for dinner.

Day three: Take a Winger toward Digboi to see the older colonial-era townscape, or head to Dibrugarh if you are working your way onward through Assam. Before you leave, note that the area saw US activity during the Second World War, a layer of history worth keeping in mind as you travel. Return to Tinsukia to collect your bags and continue your journey.