Dibrugarh

Introduction

Dibrugarh is a city in Upper Assam and the headquarters of the Dibrugarh district, set far east of the state capital, Dispur. It has been declared the second capital of Assam, and the historic town was formally announced as the second city of Assam with the formation of the Dibrugarh Municipal Corporation. The city also serves as the headquarters of the Sonowal Kachari Autonomous Council, the governing council of the Sonowal Kachari tribe.

For a traveller, Dibrugarh works as a base for exploring Upper Assam and as a place to see a historic Assamese town in the middle of an administrative role that has grown over time.

Getting there

Dibrugarh Airport (DIB) has daily flights to and from Kolkata, Guwahati and Delhi, along with air services to other Indian domestic destinations. Air India, IndiGo and SpiceJet all serve the airport, and a Pawan Hans helicopter service connects it with Itanagar, Naharlagun and Pasighat.

Two railway stations serve the city: the historic Dibrugarh Town, the first railway station built in all of Northeast India, and the newly built Dibrugarh station. Trains link Dibrugarh with New Delhi, Chandigarh, Amritsar, Bangalore, Chennai, Kanyakumari, Kolkata, Siliguri, Guwahati and Dimapur, among other places, and the Rajdhani Express originates and terminates here. For bus travel, daily services run to Guwahati and Kohima.

Getting around

Dibrugarh has no metro or tram, so you'll rely on buses, auto-rickshaws, taxis and, for some trips, motorcycles. City buses are the cheapest way to get around and cover the whole district, but most run during the daytime only, so plan evening trips around other options. Auto-rickshaws suit short hops and shoestring budgets, and are handy where buses don't go conveniently. For a private, door-to-door ride — with luggage, at night, or when heading to a railway station or the airport — taxis are the natural choice; agree on a fare or confirm the meter before setting off, and arrange one in advance for early flights or late train arrivals. Riding a motorcycle, often in a group, is described as the best way to reach Dibrugarh and move around town, and guided motorcycle tours run across Assam and the adjoining states.

Walking works well for nearby stops within a neighbourhood, but the humid subtropical climate shapes how much is practical: the drier winter months are the most comfortable for exploring on foot, while the heavy summer rains make short auto-rickshaw hops more appealing. For covering the city as a whole, combine buses and auto-rickshaws, and keep small change handy for both. If your plans take you across the Brahmaputra toward Dhemaji district, ferry services from the ghats are part of the local transport network rather than a sightseeing add-on. Note that the city's two railway stations are in different locations — the historic Dibrugarh Town is central, while the newer Dibrugarh station sits on the outskirts at Banipur — so check which one your train uses. The airport at Mohanbari lies outside town, so plan on a taxi or auto-rickshaw for the transfer into the city and allow extra time for the drive on departure.

Where to stay

Dibrugarh has hotels to suit every pocket, so you can choose between simple non-A/C rooms and air-conditioned comfort without straying far from the centre. A cluster of options sits along A. T. Road in Marwaripatty, including Hotel Little Palace, Hotel Raj Palace, Hotel Rajawas (which has the Moti Mahal restaurant) and Hotel Vishal near Puja Ghat. Hotel Devika, also on A. T. Road at Puja Ghat, is a short walk from the railway station and offers both A/C and non-A/C rooms.

• Hotel Devika – A. T. Road, Puja Ghat, close to the railway station
• Hotel Vishal – A. T. Road, Marwaripatty, Puja Ghat
• Hotel Rajawas – A. T. Road, Marwaripatty, with the Moti Mahal restaurant
• Hotel Raj Palace and Hotel Little Palace – A. T. Road, Marwaripatty
• Hotel East End, Hotel Maurya and Hotel Natraj – around New Market
• Monalisa Hotel – Mancotta Road, Chowkidinghee, near Sankardev Hospital

If you want to be near the shops and the bustle, the New Market area is a convenient base, while Mancotta Road puts you near Sankardev Hospital. Book ahead if you are arriving by train, as the hotels closest to the station are the handiest for a late arrival.

Food & drink

Dibrugarh's eating scene covers a broad range: you'll find Indian, Chinese, Mughlai, continental and local Assamese cuisines represented across the town, so there's scope to move between familiar dishes and regional cooking over the course of a stay.

For a drink that belongs to the region, seek out Hanz, a rice beer made by natural fermentation. It is brewed with bora, a rare sticky rice, which gives it a distinctive sweet taste. A handful of bars and restaurants in town, among them H2O, Little palace and Studio 69, serve both food and drinks, so you can pair a meal with a round without moving on.

What to see and do

Dibrugarh's main draw is the Brahmaputra itself. Head to the river bank to take in the scale of the water, and plan a visit around sunrise or sunset to sit and watch the light change over it. For a longer waterside walk, follow the Dibrugarh Town Protection (DTP) dyke along the river. Inland, the town is surrounded by tea gardens, and simply travelling through them gives you a sense of the landscape that defines the area.

Among the town's temples, Aye Than is a traditional Assamese temple on the banks of the Brahmaputra, while Radhakrishna Mandir near the Assam Medical College campus is built of marble. Further afield, Tilinga Mandir lies east of the city centre and is known for its many bells. For green space, Jokai Botanical Garden is run by the Forestry Department of Assam and is known for its flora and fauna, Lakshminath Bezbaruah Udyan on Assam Trunk Road offers parkland with views of the river, and Mahatma Gandhi Udyan at Khanikar Chariali is a newly developed park. Active visitors can jog the track around Chowkidinghee Field on Mankota Road, and for an evening indoors there is a cinema at Junction Mall.

When to go

Dibrugarh has a humid subtropical climate, with extremely wet summers and relatively dry winters. Summer is the wettest stretch of the year, when heavy rain is a regular feature of a visit; expect damp conditions and plan outdoor activity around downpours.

Winter is comparatively dry, making it the easier time to be outdoors and to get around. Rain is much less of a factor than in summer, so if you want to spend your days exploring without working around the weather, this is the season to choose.

Three days in Dibrugarh

Day one: Arrive at Dibrugarh Airport, served by Air India, IndiGo, SpiceJet and Pawan Hans, with connections from Kolkata, Guwahati, Delhi and Itanagar. Settle into Dibrugarh Town and use autos to get your bearings in the city. In the evening, try Assamese food and take an easy stroll through the town centre.

Day two: Take an auto or a short ride out to explore the wider Dibrugarh area of Upper Assam. The town is a useful base for the surrounding region, and you can spend the day getting a feel for local life before returning to Dibrugarh Town for the evening.

Day three: If you are continuing onward, Dibrugarh is well connected by trains, including services such as the Rajdhani Express, with links toward Guwahati, New Delhi, Kolkata, Siliguri, Dimapur and beyond. Otherwise, spend a final morning in Dibrugarh Town before heading to Dibrugarh Airport for your departure.