Haifa
Introduction
Haifa sits on Israel's Mediterranean coast and ranks as the country's third city, after Jerusalem and Tel Aviv. It anchors its own metropolitan area, itself the third-most populous in Israel.
The city's defining landmark is the Baháʼí World Centre, the spiritual and administrative heart of the Baháʼí Faith. Recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it draws Baháʼí pilgrims from around the world, and its terraced gardens shape the way the city climbs Mount Carmel toward the sea.
Before you go
Haifa is a mosaic of communities—Jews, Muslim and Christian Arabs, Ahmadis in Kababir, Druze in nearby Isfiya and Daliyat al-Karmel, Bahá'ís and others—and is characterised by peaceful coexistence between them. It is also the second-holiest city in the Bahá'í faith, so expect religious sites and a respectful atmosphere alongside everyday city life. The old saying "Haifa works, Jerusalem prays, and Tel Aviv plays" still captures its reputation as a city of workers, shaped by its port and factories; the industrial area to the north holds one of Israel's two oil refineries. That working character sits alongside a world-class high-tech strip in the south, the "Matam" technology park along the beach, home to firms such as Intel, Philips, Microsoft and Google as well as Elbit, Zoran and Amdocs. IBM has an R&D centre at Haifa University on top of Mount Carmel, and HP has a lab at the Technion, Israel's leading technological university. The city's history runs deep: it is first mentioned around the 3rd century CE near Shikmona, was ruled by Byzantines, Persians, Arabs, Crusaders and Mameluks, and was destroyed and rebuilt in a new location by Daher El-Omar in 1761, marking the start of its modern era. The German Protestant Temple Society settled the German Colony in 1868 and drove much of the town's modernisation.Getting there
Haifa Airport (HFA) handles a daily flight from Athens and several daily flights from Larnaca, with a bus line running from the airport to the ha-Mifratz transportation hub; a taxi is also an option since the airport sits only a short distance from the centre. Travellers flying from anywhere else should arrive at Ben Gurion International Airport (TLV) near Lod, which receives flights from around the world. From there, the train departing the airport terminal is the best way into Haifa, though buses, trains, taxis and shuttles all cover the route, and the drive takes under two hours.
Israel Railways connects Haifa with Tel Aviv, Akko, Beer Sheva, Nahariyya and Ben Gurion Airport, with the trip taking a little over an hour and as many as three or four services an hour at peak times; an easy connection in Tel Aviv opens up almost any station in the country. A less frequent line runs to Beit Shean via Afula and the Jezreel Valley. Six stations serve the city, three of them open around the clock except during the Sabbath: Hof ha-Carmel, near Dado beach, Haifa Mall, Castra Mall and the Hof HaCarmel bus terminal; Bat Galim, close to Bat Galim Beach, Elijah's Cave and the cable car to Stella Maris Carmelite monastery; Haifa Merkaz–Ha-Shmona (Haifa Central), near the downtown district, the cruise ship terminal and the Carmelit subway; and Lev ha-Mifratz, by the Cinemall shopping centre and the Lev HaMifratz bus terminal. The more distant stations at Hutzot HaMifratz and Kiryat Haim are unlikely to be relevant to your trip.
By road, route 2 is the coastal highway linking Haifa with Tel Aviv, a journey of up to an hour and a half, while route 6, the inland toll road, is a little quicker for reaching eastern parts of the city. Minor roads connect Haifa to the east and north. Two main bus terminals let you switch between intercity and local routes: Merkazit Hof HaCarmel, for buses from the south including Tel Aviv, Jerusalem and Netanya, beside Hof HaCarmel train station; and Merkazit HaMifratz, for buses from the north and east including the Krayot suburbs, the Galilee, Tiberias and Acre, near Lev HaMifratz train station. Each bus station sits next to a train station of similar name, and reaching the terminals requires the Metronit BRT, so the train can work out cheaper from nearby cities such as Akko. Buses are significantly slower than trains from Tel Aviv, Jerusalem and Acre, so they are best avoided unless train services have stopped.
The Port of Haifa is mainly a freight port, but cruise liners often call, and the local budget line Mano starts short Mediterranean cruises here; short cruises from Cyprus occasionally call too, on which a point-to-point journey may be possible. A small foot-passenger service crosses the bay between Haifa (Terminal Gate 5) and Akko three times daily, making a day trip possible in either direction, and private vessels from abroad may dock at Shavit Marina within the port, where passport control and customs operate around the clock.
Getting around
Haifa is built on the slopes of Mount Carmel, so getting around often means travelling vertically as well as horizontally. Sort out payment first: get a Rav Kav card or pay through the Moovit app, and both will cover you across the different modes. Israeli manners may come across as rougher than in some other countries, but people are also more likely to actually help — don't be surprised if several people start debating the best route for you.
The local bus system is the backbone of the city, with "Metronit" bus rapid transit routes operated by Superbus alongside many ordinary routes. Buses run regularly through the day, and unlike most cities in Israel they also run on the Sabbath and Jewish holidays, though only minimal and highly infrequent services. A night bus route runs on Fridays and Saturdays, every night during the summertime peak but only Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights off-peak. The Carmelit funicular is the only subway in Israel and useful for getting up or down the mountain from downtown, though it covers only a small part of Haifa; its stations and train cars have steps built in because of the steepness, and it has few riders, so you'll always find a seat. Its six stations, downhill, are Carmel Center, Golomb, Massada, HaNevi'im, Hadar – City Hall and Downtown. Yango and Gett ride-hailing services are available. Two cable cars double as public transport: the Bat Galim cable car between Bat-Galim Promenade and Stella Maris, mainly intended for tourists to enjoy the view, and the Rakavlit, serving Merkazit HaMifratz bus and train station, the Technion and the University of Haifa, with Lebanon and Mt. Hermon visible on a clear day. For intercity travel and airport connections, use the train; for getting to and from the two main bus terminals, you'll need the Metronit. Walking is pleasant in the Carmel Center around the Louis Promenade, in Hadar, and downtown around Paris Square and Ha'atzmaut street, but for longer or steeper journeys take a bus, the Carmelit or a cable car instead.
Where to stay
Where you sleep in Haifa depends largely on which part of the city you want as your base. The German Colony, at the foot of the Bahai Gardens, is the most convenient area for sightseeing, with several small guest houses and hostels on and around Ben-Gurion Avenue and Derech Yafo, including family-run places and a Christian hostel that caters to groups and individuals. The Old City has budget accommodation in restored Arabic buildings offering apartments, private rooms and dormitories, often with shared kitchens and garden space. Near Wadi Nisnas and Hadar you'll find modern apartment-style units with kitchen and bathroom, close to groceries, shops and public transport, and with hosts who speak several languages. Higher up, Merkaz HaCarmel and the Carmel ridge are where the larger hotels cluster, many along Hanassi Avenue and Yafe Nof Street, with panoramic views over the bay and the coastline. Here you can choose between long-established luxury properties with private gardens, a hotel rising high above Mount Carmel and linked directly to a shopping mall, and a bay-view hotel with seaside rooms and suites, restaurants and a bar. A health club with a covered pool, saunas, Jacuzzi and gym is available at one of them. Further out, in Tirat Carmel, a luxurious hotel combines large modern rooms and suites with workshops, lectures, walking tours, musical evenings and regional cuisine. Mid-range options include a guest house run by Roman Catholic nuns near the central railway station and the port, which includes breakfast but locks its doors at night, and a comfortable hotel on Hanassi Boulevard.Food & drink
Haifa isn't a gourmet capital on the order of greater Tel Aviv, but you'll eat well, especially if you stick to street food and hummus. Falafel is the staple: try Falafel Michel or Falafel HaZkenim in Wadi Nisnas, Falafel HaNasi at the Carmel Center or Horev Center, or the stands around Paris Square at the lowest Carmelit station. Wadi Nisnas also has restaurants and stalls for shawarma and Middle Eastern sweets such as baklava and knafe. Downtown, Yafo Street near the old Bat Galim Central Bus Terminal holds a dense run of cheap, authentic falafel and shawarma stands, and the bureka — a Turkish phyllo pastry filled with cheese, potatoes, spinach and feta, or meat — is nearly as common. For a sit-down meal, the Middle Eastern and Arabic restaurants cluster downtown: Abu-Yousef, Hummus Faraj, Hummus Abu-Shaker on HaMeginim St., Abu Maroun in the flea market, and Matza, a short walk from the Grand Canyon mall. All are known for high-quality hummus. You'll also find Romanian-style places downtown, in reality a hybrid of Middle Eastern and Romanian cooking, such as Ma'ayan HaBira, Cafe Glida Younek.
Restaurants and cafes gather in a few distinct clusters. Moriah Avenue runs roughly three kilometres from the Carmel Center down to the Horev Center mall, with options including Charliebar, Frangelico, Café Louise, Roladin, Sinta-bar, El Gaucho, Meat In and Out, Canibar, Agadir, Lechem Erez, Giraffe, HaBank, Pasta Carolla, Isabella Bar, Shipudei HaTikvah, Pomodoro, Jacko, Japanika, Greg, Mandarin and Voila; the local bars along the avenue, such as the Duke, Brown and Barbarosa, also serve good food. Ben-Gurion Avenue, below the Bahai Gardens and linking them to the port, is a trendier strip with Isabella, Fattoush, Rak Bassar, Ramsis, Captain Nemo, Douzan and Taiwan. Wadi Nisnas is mostly a produce-and-groceries quarter, but its eateries along Al-Wadi and Shehadeh Saleh are worth a stop — Abdel Hadi Sweets, marked only in Hebrew and Arabic, is recognisable by the pastries in its windows and does a particularly good knafeh. For views with your meal, head to Stella Maris by the San Francisco Observatory (Kalamaris, Golden Coral) or to HaNamal, the port, where Hanamal 24 serves high-end food and NeoPolitan does pizza and Italian. The Dado Beach strip is less about the food than about relaxing with the beach metres away and watching the crowds. These clusters stay lively with young people into the small hours most nights, though Fridays can get uncomfortably crowded at the most popular spots, and mid-priced places tend to pack people in, so expect noise and uneven service.
For drinking, Central Mount Carmel has a decent spread of mid-range cafes and bars; Greg and Tut sit side by side in Kikar Sefer. Near the Horev Center, Frangelico and Barbarossa are the most popular bars and often packed, but Brown, Levinsky, Maidler and Duke are all a short walk away. Yefe Nof has its own cluster of pubs, including a popular Charliebar and an Irish-style pub. Downtown you'll find Maayan HaBira, an old-fashioned spot favoured by an older crowd; the Martef, where you might catch an open-mic night; Jack and the Beanstalk, a more intimate pub with a good appetiser selection; and the Syncopa bar.
What to see and do
The Bahá'í Gardens and World Center on Mount Carmel's northern slope are the essential Haifa sight, with the golden-domed Shrine of the Báb, terraced gardens and administrative buildings forming the faith's holiest pilgrimage site. Parts of the site can be visited freely, including the bottom entrance and the level at the dome, while the top, middle and bottom sections have separate, widely spaced entrances and the middle requires a dress code; free tours run on a schedule posted on the site's website. Elsewhere on the mountain, the Cave of Elijah draws Jewish, Christian and Muslim pilgrims, and strong walkers can reach it on a scenic descent from Stella Maris, a French Carmelite church and monastery whose painted ceiling depicts Elijah's chariot of fire, King David, the prophets and the Holy Family, with a small museum of Byzantine and Crusader cloister ruins adjoining. The German Colony, centred on Ben-Gurion Boulevard, preserves Templer houses from the 1860s and now serves as a promenade of restaurants and coffee shops, and it holds the City History Museum and the local tourist board. Wadi Nisnas, Haifa's largest Arab neighbourhood, offers a bustling pedestrian zone and outdoor art, while the University of Haifa campus at the top of Carmel, designed by Oscar Niemeyer, offers a sweeping view of the north of the country from the Eshkol Tower and houses the Hecht Museum. Among the museums, MadaTech, the national science museum, occupies two historic Technion buildings in mid-town, and the Clandestine Immigration and Navy Museum is built around the Af-Al-Pi-Chen, the boat that carried refugees to Palestine in 1947. The National Maritime Museum covers Mediterranean shipping with old maps, ship models and navigation equipment, and the Tikotin Museum of Japanese Art shows rotating exhibitions from Buddhist scrolls to pottery, metalwork and animation. The Hecht Museum holds archaeological finds from before the Diaspora, including a rebuilt 5th-century-BC Greek ship and an art wing with French Impressionist and Jewish works. For active time, the beaches beside the Hof HaCarmel bus and train stations stretch for kilometres along the southwest side, with a boardwalk of cafes and restaurants where families gather and younger crowds head to the strip locals call Students' Beach. A cable car links the Bat Galim promenade with Stella Maris for views over the city, beach, port and bay, and the Carmelit subway runs between Carmel Center and downtown. Between December and January, the Holiday of the Holidays fills the German Colony and Wadi Nisnas with markets, public shows and free museum entry.When to go
Haifa has a hot-summer Mediterranean climate, so the season you choose shapes your trip considerably. Spring arrives in March and temperatures climb steadily from then on; by late May it has warmed up considerably and the first truly warm summer days appear. Humidity stays high throughout, and because the wet season runs into May, rain can still fall in spring.
Summers are hot and dry, and with humidity high all year round the heat can feel muggy, though rain is unlikely — the rainy window only opens again in September. Winters are mild and rainy, with rain usually falling between September and May. Frost is rare, but cold early-morning temperatures can sometimes occur, and snow is very rare. Humidity remains high right through the season.
Three days in Haifa
Day one: Start on Mount Carmel, where the Baháʼí World Centre terraces step down the slope and the Baháʼí Faith's gardens give you your first long view over Haifa and the Mediterranean. Recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this is the city's defining sight, so give it time rather than rushing. Later, walk the slopes of Mount Carmel itself, the ridge that shapes every neighbourhood and every view in Haifa.
Day two: Turn to the city's working side. The Matam business park concentrates the technology sector, with Intel, Philips, Microsoft, Google, Elbit, Zoran, Amdocs, IBM and HP all present, and it sits close to Haifa University and the Technion, so the student and research presence is felt across the area. For older ground, head to Shikmona, a site associated with the Byzantines, Persians and Arabs, which gives you a sense of how long this coast has been settled.
Day three: Look at how Haifa's communities live together. Jews, Muslim and Christian Arabs, Ahmadis, and Druze all make up the city, and the Ahmadi presence is centred in Kababir on Mount Carmel, while the Druze towns of Isfiya and Daliyat al-Karmel sit nearby. If you want a contrast with Haifa's pace, Jerusalem and Tel Aviv are both within reach, but the mix of neighbourhoods on and around the Karmel is reason enough to spend your last day close to home.