Bitung
Introduction
Bitung sits at the north-eastern edge of Sulawesi in Indonesia, a coastal city in the province of North Sulawesi. It faces Lembeh Island and the Lembeh Strait, whose waters are known for colourful marine life — sea slugs in particular.
Manado, the provincial capital, lies nearby, and Bitung is the province's second most populous city after it. For divers and marine-life enthusiasts, the strait is the main draw; the city itself is your base on this stretch of coast.
Getting there
To reach Bitung by air, fly into Sam Ratulangi International Airport (MDC), roughly 35 kilometres to the west near Manado. From there, take a taxi or rent a car for the onward journey into the city.
Bitung is the major port of North Sulawesi, so arriving by sea is a practical option. Pelni ships call at the Port of Bitung and connect the city with destinations across the archipelago, including Makassar, Bau Bau, Ambon, Ternate, Balikpapan, Sorong, Manokwari and Jayapura, among others. Some larger cruise ships travelling between Australia and Thailand or other parts of Asia also stop here.
Getting around
There is no rail, metro or tram service to rely on in Bitung, so getting around means road transport and boats. Public buses are the main form of public transport, and the route you are most likely to use runs to Manado. Buses to Manado operate very often and at a cheap price, but they are far from convenient: they are not air conditioned, they make many and long stops to wait for passengers, and many local passengers smoke onboard despite smoking being illegal throughout Indonesia. If you take the bus, budget extra time and expect a basic, stop-start journey.
Taxis are easy to find, and many of them are taxis from Manado waiting for passengers travelling from Bitung back to Manado. Only a few use meters; most charge on a negotiated basis, so agree the fare before you set off, as the price can vary widely depending on your haggling. Smoking is illegal in taxis, though the driver may still smoke — you are free to ask the driver to stop for your journey. The most convenient way to travel between Bitung and Manado is to hire a car through your hotel, either self-drive or with a driver and fuel included. Walking is best treated as a way to cover short local distances rather than as a means of getting between districts or to Manado; for anything beyond your immediate surroundings, arrange a vehicle. From Sam Ratulangi International Airport, take a taxi or rent a car, as there is no airport rail link or dedicated shuttle. Bitung is also a major port, with Pelni ships sailing towards other areas of Indonesia and occasional cruise calls, and the port is your gateway to Lembeh Island and the Lembeh Strait — check the specific vessel and route rather than assuming a daily service.
Where to stay
For budget stays, the Nalendra Hotel on S. Languyu St is a known option. Small hotels are easy to find elsewhere in the city, but you need to be very selective, as some are affected by prostitution activity.
- Nalendra Hotel — S. Languyu St 5A
At the top end, Lembeh Resort in Pintukota, Lembeh Utara, is a secluded dive resort that arranges diving trips, nature excursions and underwater photography workshops, and has its own restaurant, bar and spa. Bastianos Lembeh Diving Resort is another diving-oriented option. If your plans centre on the forest rather than the strait, Tangkoko Lodge Batu Putih sits at Batu Putih Bawah in Ranowulu, north of Bitung city, with air-conditioned rooms, free Wi-Fi and parking; it is clean though not luxurious.
- Lembeh Resort — Pintukota, Lembeh Utara
- Bastianos Lembeh Diving Resort
- Tangkoko Lodge Batu Putih — Batu Putih Bawah, Ranowulu
Food & drink
< p>Pork is common in this Christian-majority city, and you will find plenty of small restaurants to choose from. If you are Muslim, ask whether a restaurant is halal before ordering. Traditional markets are where you can easily find bats, dogs, rodents, and reptiles sold as meat for human consumption; if that is not to your taste, ask what you are being served first. For Chinese seafood, seek out a small family-run place in a side street directly across from Texas Chicken and next to the main fuel depot — the decor is ordinary, but the food is terrific and cheap by Western standards. For Minahasan (Manado) cuisine with abundant seafood options, try Triple Sari Resto & Cafe in Madidir Ure, Maesa. < p>Beer is easy to find in all restaurants and even in small shops. Saguer, the traditional alcoholic beverage made from palm, is the local drink to look for. For a rooftop bar, head to the third floor of RedDoorz @ Cbreez Bitung on Jl. Stadion 2 Saudara in Manembo-nembo Atas.What to see and do
For wildlife, head to Tangkoko Nature Reserve, roughly two hours from the city. Public transport exists but requires several changes, so renting a car is the most efficient option. Plan to stay overnight, as the area has resorts and small hotels, and at night you can hire a guide to enter the forest and see the tarsius, the smallest primate in the world. If a trip to Tangkoko does not fit your schedule, a mini zoo about ten minutes from the city centre keeps tarsiers, birds, anoa, wild boar and crocodiles; you will be asked for a donation to feed the animals. Divers should make for the Lembeh Strait, about thirty minutes away, a diving destination whose resorts are run by westerners and priced accordingly. On land, Batuangus Beach in Kasawari, Aertembaga, offers clear water for snorkelling and is a popular spot for camping and picnics.Three days in Bitung
Day one: Arrive at Sam Ratulangi International Airport and travel to Bitung, a port city on the north coast of Sulawesi in North Sulawesi, Indonesia. Settle in near Languyu St, where the Nalendra Hotel is located, then take a walk to get your bearings. Bitung is a busy harbour town, and its streets are a good place to start understanding the rhythm of the place.
Day two: Head for the water. The Lembeh Strait, between the mainland and Lembeh Island, is the reason many travellers come here, and a day on or in the strait is the classic way to spend your time. If you prefer to stay ashore, walking the port area shows you the working side of the city, with ferries and cargo vessels coming and going.
Day three: Use Bitung as a base for the wider region. Manado is within reach, and Sam Ratulangi International Airport connects the area to the rest of Indonesia and to destinations in Asia, including Australia and Thailand. Pelni ships link the Port of Bitung with Makassar, Bau Bau, Ambon, Ternate, Balikpapan, Sorong, Manokwari and Jayapura, so you can continue your journey by sea if you wish. Public buses and taxis are available for getting around before you move on.