Martapura

Introduction

Martapura is the capital of the Banjar Regency in South Kalimantan province, Indonesia, sitting immediately to the north of the city of Banjarbaru. The town is made up of three districts within the regency — Martapura, West Martapura and East Martapura — so it spreads across a wide area rather than concentrating around a single centre.

Use Martapura as a base for exploring this part of South Kalimantan, with Banjarbaru close by to the south.

Before you go

Martapura is a city known for its gemstones and for a strong Islamic character, so plan your visit with that in mind. It sits about an hour's drive from Banjarmasin and only about fifteen minutes from Banjarbaru, making it easy to reach from either as part of a wider trip through the region.

Because the city is close to both, you can base yourself in either Banjarmasin or Banjarbaru and still reach Martapura comfortably. Allow time to explore its gemstone trade, and dress and behave respectfully given the city's Islamic flavour.

Getting there

Martapura is reached most easily from Banjarmasin by intercity minivan. These taksi antarkota are orange-coloured minivans, and they run frequently in both directions between the two cities, so you can count on plenty of departures rather than a single scheduled service.

If you prefer to travel by car, you can hire a car with a driver for the trip.

Getting around

Martapura has no metro, tram or commuter rail, so you get around by minivan, pedicab or hired car. The workhorse is the taksi kota, a green minivan running a fixed route between Martapura and Liang Anggang via Banjarbaru. Hail one anywhere along the route by raising your hand; when you want to get off, say "kiri" (key-ree) or simply "stop" out loud. Fares are based on distance rather than a flat rate, so have exact change ready and hand it to the driver at your destination. You need to know where you're going in advance, and drivers usually don't speak English.

• Becak: rickshaws and pedicabs cluster around the main market and suit short hops; fares are negotiable and depend on distance, so agree on one before you set off.
• From Banjarmasin: orange intercity minivans (taksi antarkota) run in both directions and are the standard public-transport link between the two cities.
• Car with driver: available to hire if you want to reach places off the minivan routes or avoid negotiating fares in a language you don't share.
• On foot: practical only for short distances and specific areas; for anything beyond a short stroll, plan on a taksi kota, a becak or a hired car.

Where to stay

Use the town as a base for exploring the wider region and choose your accommodation on arrival, checking current options locally rather than relying on any fixed list.

Food & drink

Martapura's main market is the place to head for the city's traditional cakes, a local specialty worth seeking out while you explore the market stalls. Stop by to sample them as part of your wander through the market.

What to see and do

Three days in Martapura

Day one: Begin in Martapura, the capital of Banjar Regency in South Kalimantan, Indonesia. Use the town as your base and get your bearings on foot, since the becak is a handy way to cover short distances. Allow time to wander between West Martapura and East Martapura and to see how the town's Islamic character shapes its daily rhythm.

Day two: Head out from Banjarmasin by car or becak, or stop in Banjarbaru on the way, and use Martapura as your starting point for the day. Because English is not widely spoken, keep your plans simple and allow extra time for getting around. See the Liang Anggang area and take in the surrounding countryside before returning to town for the evening.

Day three: Spend a final day in Martapura at an easy pace. If fares and transport allow, use the morning to revisit the parts of West Martapura and East Martapura you liked most, then arrange your onward travel. These three days give you a feel for the town and its place in Banjar Regency without rushing.