Banyuwangi travel guide

Banyuwangi, Indonesia

By the Travel Wiki editorial team

Banyuwangi

Introduction

Banyuwangi sits at the far eastern end of Java, the capital of the regency of the same name and a large town in its own right. Once known as Banjoewangi, it spreads beyond its administrative district into the neighbouring districts, so the built-up area you experience is considerably larger than the official town boundaries suggest.

Before you go

Banyuwangi sits at the easternmost tip of Java, and most travellers encounter it first as a gateway: the ferry at Ketapang crosses to Gilimanuk in Bali, making the town a natural stopover for anyone heading to Bali overland by car from Java's major cities. But the area rewards more than a passing pause, and it is becoming better known as a destination in its own right. From here you can reach the volcanic scenery of the Ijen Plateau, the main access point for Baluran National Park, the renowned surfing at G-Land (Grajagan), and the remote Alas Purwo National Park.

Before setting out, it helps to know where to find official information. The Banyuwangi Government Culture and Tourism Service is on Jl. A. Yani, and there is a Tourist Information Centre at Ketapang Harbour. If your plans include Alas Purwo, the national park's head office is on Jl. Brawijaya in Kebalenan, open on weekdays. Bear in mind that several of the highlights here lie well outside the town, so plan your transport and timing around the distances involved.

Getting there

Banyuwangi is served by Blimbingsari Airport (BWX), which has flights from Jakarta on Batik Air, Citilink, Garuda Indonesia and NAM Air, from Surabaya on Garuda Indonesia and Wings Air, and from Kuala Lumpur on Citilink. By rail, several daily trains run from Surabaya and Malang with the national operator Kereta Api, taking around six hours, plus one daily train from Yogyakarta taking about 13 hours. These services arrive at Ketapang station, the stop for ferries to Bali, with the harbour just 200 m away; the station was known until 2020 as Banyuwangi Baru and may still appear under that name on old signage and timetables, and it sits 10 km north of the town centre. If Banyuwangi itself is your destination, get off instead at Banyuwangi Kota station (previously Karangasem) on the west edge of town, 3 km from the centre.

By road, the main bus terminal is Sri Tanjung, 2 km south of Ketapang port, with buses from Surabaya taking about six hours. Ferries cross from Gilimanuk in Bali to Ketapang around the clock, departing every 30 minutes and taking about 45 minutes, though loading and unloading can take much longer; the operator is ASDP, and foot passengers need credit loaded onto a smartcard, which you buy at a desk before the main ticket window and can share between several passengers. Tickets can be bought through Ferizy's website or on the spot. From Ketapang, blue bemos run towards the downtown area, and metered taxis operated by Bosowa Taxi also serve the area. A fast boat also runs daily from Kedonganan Harbour in Bali to Blimbingsari, taking about two hours. Driving from Denpasar via Gilimanuk takes around four hours, as the two-lane highway carries plenty of trucks and buses overtaking each other.

Getting around

Banyuwangi is spread out enough that you will rely on some form of transport for most trips, though the centre is manageable on foot. The main market area along Jalan Susuit Tuban, the alun-alun and the stadium form a compact, connected core you can cover walking; beyond that the town spreads out and walking becomes impractical, especially in the heat. Both railway stations sit some distance from the centre, so you will not be walking between them and town with luggage — take a bemo, becak or taxi instead. Bemos are the local minibus workhorses, running from Ketapang ferry terminal into the town centre and to the Sri Tanjung and Brawijaya bus terminals; they generally operate during the day and fares within the downtown area are cheap, but drivers often open with a price several times the going rate, so negotiate or walk away and watch the price fall. Becaks (cycle rickshaws and horse carts) are widely available for short hops, and the same rule applies: never accept the first price quoted.

Metered taxis operate in the area — Bosowa Taxi, with its dark blue cars, is the local company, and you can call one to come to you. A metered taxi is also a straightforward option from Ketapang port into town and a useful fallback once bemos have stopped for the day; keep an eye on the meter as you arrive, since drivers have been known to switch it off the moment you pull up. For trips further afield, buses from Sri Tanjung terminal run to Benculuk, where you change for another bus onward to Grajagan — the route independent travellers use to reach the G-Land surf area, though most surfers arrange transport to the camps as part of a package from Bali. For independent excursions, particularly up to the Ijen Crater or into the remote coastal national parks of the south-east, you can hire a private jeep with a driver; this is effectively essential, as public transport does not reach them.

Where to stay

Banyuwangi has plenty of budget accommodation, and much of it is fairly identical, so your choice will likely come down to location. If you're arriving or leaving on a late or early ferry, the area around the Ketapang ferry terminal is the obvious base; expect well-meaning touts at the terminal eager to steer you to their option, and consider that the small extra payment for the tout might be worth it if you're tired and just want a place to sleep. In town, options range from simple rooms with air-con to basic backpacker places within walking distance of the centre, and a well-designed hostel a short ride east of the train station with English-fluent staff happy to help with planning, set in a neighbourhood of trendy restaurants. Between the city and the Ijen crater, a bed and breakfast in a quiet side village can arrange tours and car rental.

For something more comfortable, a waterfront hotel with cottages, a good-sized pool and a restaurant sits a short drive from the ferry terminal and can arrange tours, while a restored colonial-era post office on the south side of Taman Blambangan park in downtown offers superior and executive rooms, a pool, and attentive staff who won't push tours and will help with directions and logistics; the surrounding streets have plenty of eating options.

Food & drink

For everyday eating, head for the street stalls and simple warungs that are scattered all over Banyuwangi. In the evening, plenty of them set up on the north-west side of Taman Blambangan park, and at the smaller park nearby next to the Masjid Agung Baiturrahman mosque.

Several local Banyuwangi dishes are worth seeking out. Rujak soto is served at Pondok Rujak Soto on Jl. Basuki Rahmat, pecel rawon at Pecel Rawon Bu Yani on Jalan Joyoboyo in Kalipuro, and sego tempong at Sego Tempong Mbok Wah in Glagah. For uyah asem and pecel pitik, try Srengenge Wetan on Jl. Panglima Besar Sudirman, and for sego cawuk, Nasi Cawuk Ibu Sri on Jl. Kyai Saleh. Beyond the local specialities, you can find Javanese deep-fried chicken at Pondok Wina and Wina Mac Joe, both on Jl Basuki Rahmat, and rawon soup at Bik Ati on Jl. Ahmad Yani. For a more modern setting with larger portions of popular Indonesian dishes, there is Latisana Drink and Eatery on Jl. Ikan Wijinongko. To drink, try the local kopi ijen at a local cafe such as Pondok Kopi Lereng Ijen Banyuwangi on Jl. Barong.

What to see and do

Banyuwangi's signature art form is the Gandrung dance, so central to local identity that the city itself is nicknamed Gandrung. In Javanese the word means hopelessly in love, and the object of that love is Dewi Sri, the goddess of rice: the performance is an homage offered in gratitude for the harvest, staged with a distinctive orchestration. It is a special cultural occasion rather than a routine show, so check at the Tourist Information Centre for scheduled performances.

Three days in Banyuwangi

Day one: Start in Banyuwangi itself, the town once known as Banjoewangi, and get your bearings at the Tourist Information Centre on Jl Yani, run by the Banyuwangi Government Culture and Tourism Service. From Ketapang Harbour you can look across the strait to Gilimanuk on Bali, and if you arrive by air, Blimbingsari Airport (BWX) is served by Batik Air, Citilink, Garuda Indonesia, NAM Air and Wings Air on routes from Jakarta, Surabaya and Kuala Lumpur. Use the rest of the day to wander the town and try local batik.

Day two: Head for the Ijen Plateau for the crater and its turquoise acid lake, and give yourself a full day for the climb and the descent. The route up is steep and the air is cool, so bring layers; mornings are often clear before cloud builds.

Day three: Choose between the two national parks. Baluran National Park is the more accessible, with savanna and dry-country wildlife, while Alas Purwo National Park, out toward Grajagan, is wilder and takes more time to reach. If you are continuing onward, Brawijaya and Kebalenan are useful stops, and Kereta Api trains connect Banyuwangi with Surabaya, Malang and Yogyakarta.

About this place