Sham Shui Po
Introduction
Sham Shui Po sits in the northwestern part of the Kowloon Peninsula, in Kowloon, Hong Kong. It lies north of Tai Kok Tsui, east of Cheung Sha Wan and south of Shek Kip Mei, and it gives its name to the surrounding Sham Shui Po District.
Getting around
Sham Shui Po is compact, relatively flat and laid out on a grid, so most of the famous sights — the street markets, the electronics arcades, the fabric shops and the food streets — sit within a short walk of the metro. The MTR serves the district via Sham Shui Po station on the Tsuen Wan line, which gives you direct, transfer-free service to Tsim Sha Tsui, Jordan, Yau Ma Tei, Mong Kok, Admiralty and Central; Tsim Sha Tsui is only a few stops away, and Central is a straightforward ride across the harbour. Trains run very frequently, but the system is at its busiest during the morning and evening peaks, when carriages are crowded even though services come every couple of minutes, so travel outside those windows if you can. Choosing the right station exit saves a lot of walking:
- Exit A2 — the Apliu Street electronics market, Yu Chau Street (Bead Street) and the Nam Cheong Pawn Shop.
- Exit B2 — the main shopping and dining area, including Kung Wo Beancurd Factory and connections to local bus routes and nearby accommodation.
- Exit C2 — Dragon Centre and the Hong Kong Design Centre's DX design hub.
- Exit D2 — the temples, the Heritage of Mei Ho House, Fuk Wing Street (Toy Street) and Garden Hill for sunset views.
Buses fill in the gaps the metro leaves, useful for cross-harbour trips and for reaching the airport; KMB runs local routes through the district, buses are air-conditioned, accept the stored-value card and announce stops in English with bilingual route maps on board, and minibuses accept the same card. Red urban taxis serve Sham Shui Po and are easy to flag down or pick up at ranks; they are metered, with a flag fall for the first stretch and a per-distance charge thereafter, and app-based, Uber-style services offer upfront pricing. Walking is one of the best ways to explore: sidewalks are wide, signage is bilingual, and covered walkways help in the heat and rain. It is also how you experience what the area is famous for — the Apliu Street market for electronics and second-hand goods, the Golden Computer Centre and Arcade for computer equipment and games, the fabric shops along Nam Cheong Street and Ki Lung Street, and the food streets of Fuk Wa Street, Fuk Wing Street, Pei Ho Street and Kweilin Street. Jaywalking fines are enforced, so cross at the proper crossings. From the airport, the Airport Express runs to Kowloon Station, where you transfer to the Tung Chung line and then onto the Tsuen Wan line, or you can take it to Central and change to the Tsuen Wan line there; the E21 express bus stops in Sham Shui Po at Bute Street, Maple Street, Pei Ho Street and Yen Chow Street and runs directly to the Passenger Terminal Building; a red urban taxi is the most comfortable and direct choice. Carry an Octopus card, which works across the MTR, buses and minibuses and saves you money compared with single tickets, and use the MTR Mobile app for live service status and platform information and HKeMobility for real-time bus arrival data.
Three days in Sham Shui Po
Day one: Start by getting your bearings in Sham Shui Po, on the Kowloon Peninsula. The MTR runs here from Tsuen Wan and from Tsim Sha Tsui, Jordan, Yau Ma Tei, Mong Kok, Admiralty and Central, so you can arrive from most parts of Kowloon or Hong Kong without much trouble. Trains are the simplest option; buses, KMB among them, also serve the area, and Uber is available if you prefer. Choosing where to begin is easy once you find your exit, since the streets around the station put you straight into the district's market life. Spend the afternoon on Apliu Street, Yu Chau Street and Bead Street, where stalls and shops sell electronics, fabric and beads. Look in on the Nam Cheong Pawn Shop, then stop for beancurd at Kung Wo Beancurd Factory. If you still have energy, walk through Tai Kok Tsui or Cheung Sha Wan, both part of Sham Shui Po District.
Day two: Give the day to the district's design and heritage side. Visit the Hong Kong Design Centre and DX, then make your way to Mei Ho House in Shek Kip Mei for a sense of the area's public housing past. Carry on to Fuk Wing Street, known as Toy Street, where the shops are aimed at children and collectors alike. Dragon Centre is a good place to break up the day indoors. In the evening, walk the blocks around Sham Shui Po and watch how the street trade changes after dark.
Day three: Use your last day for the things you passed over. Return to Apliu Street and Golden Computer Centre if electronics interest you, or wander back through the side streets for fabric and beads. If the weather is clear, climb Garden Hill for a view over Sham Shui Po and the Kowloon Peninsula. Walking is the best way to finish, since the district rewards slow movement between its markets and older buildings. When you are ready to leave, the MTR connects you onward to Mong Kok, Yau Ma Tei, Jordan, Tsim Sha Tsui, Admiralty, Central or Tsuen Wan.