Nea Smyrni
Introduction
You will find a rich sense of history in Nea Smyrni, a municipality located in South Athens. The area carries a deep connection to the past, having been named after the former Greek city of Smyrna.
The neighborhood serves as a place where many refugees settled following the 1922 Burning of Smyrna during the Greco-Turkish war, weaving the legacy of their journey into the local identity.
Before you go
Prepare for your journey by understanding the layers of history that define this landscape. You will find a city where ancient ruins sit alongside grand neoclassical buildings and modern architecture. The area is shaped by its geography, nestled in a basin surrounded by mountains, which can occasionally trap smog on certain days despite improvements in air quality. To enjoy the best conditions, plan your visit during the spring or late autumn when the weather is pleasant; while summer can be hot and dry, winter offers a quieter experience with fewer crowds.
As you navigate the city, keep these details in mind:
- The urban landscape features several hills that offer a retreat from the noise of the streets and provide views toward the Saronic Gulf.
- The historic center includes the Thissio and Pláka districts, which have been restored to showcase their picturesque neoclassical character.
- You can explore the Unification of Archaeological Sites, a network of pedestrianized streets connecting various classical-era monuments.
- The city's layout is influenced by its past as a major center of Greek culture, with many areas now featuring improved infrastructure and renovated public spaces.
Getting there
You can arrive in the city by plane at Athens Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport, a major hub for the Aegean, Balkan, and East Mediterranean regions. The airport offers various amenities including duty-free shops, lounges, and unlimited free Wi-Fi. If your flight is parked at a remote hard stand rather than a jetway, be prepared for potential delays due to the shuttle bus system used to manage capacity.
Alternatively, you can reach the city by road via the A1 or A8 motorways, or by train through Hellenic Train. The rail network connects you to the Peloponnese in the south and to cities like Thessaloniki and Larissa in the north. For those arriving by sea, Piraeus serves as the primary port for ferries and cruise ships, while Lavrio and Rafina offer additional options accessible by regional buses. If traveling from neighboring countries, KTEL regional coaches provide connections from various locations, including international routes from nearby regions.
Getting around
You can navigate Athens using an extensive public transportation network managed by OASA, which includes metro lines, trams, and buses. A single ticket allows for unlimited transfers across these modes within a 90-minute window. If you are unfamiliar with Greek, transit signs include transliterations into Roman letters, and most staff members communicate in English. For convenience, the "tap2ride" system allows you to use a contactless Visa or Mastercard, or a mobile wallet like GPay or Apple Pay, on all forms of transport.
- The metro system features three lines, including the oldest line connecting Piraeus and northern suburbs through the city center. Major stations such as Syntagma, Larissa, and Akropoli often showcase archaeological artifacts discovered during construction.
- The tram network connects the city center with southern suburbs and coastal zones, while the Proastiakos suburban railway provides links to locations like Piraeus and Chalkida.
- A variety of diesel, natural gas, and electric trolleybuses serve the urban area, with many central stops equipped with smart displays for arrival information.
- Canary yellow taxis are a common way to travel; however, you should insist on using the meter to avoid inflated rates and be aware that drivers may drive aggressively when heading toward the airport.
- Driving yourself is possible but challenging due to narrow streets, aggressive traffic, and complex road configurations. If you choose to drive, ensure you have cash for tolls on the Attiki Odos expressway.
Where to stay
You can choose from a wide range of accommodations in Athens, ranging from budget-friendly hostels and camping sites to high-end luxury hotels. If you prefer to be in the heart of the action, staying in Central Athens puts you near most museums and ancient sites. For those who prefer a more modern feel or scenic coastal views, you might consider staying in coastal suburbs like Glyfada or Piraeus, though this will require traveling into the center for sightseeing.
Depending on your preferred atmosphere, you can find different styles of lodging across various neighborhoods:
- Stay in Plaka for a central location near major historical sites.
- Choose Kolonaki if you prefer an upscale area with boutique options.
- Look toward North Athens if you prefer a residential area with high-end restaurants and malls.
- Select South Athens to be closer to the beaches accessible by public transport.
Food & drink
Explore the vibrant dining scene in the districts of Kolonaki and Plaka, where you can find a wide range of culinary experiences. For a quick and budget-friendly meal, grab a souvlaki—meat grilled on a skewer and served with tomato, onion, tzatziki, and pita bread. You can find these convenient wraps throughout tourist areas or at dedicated shops near the Monastiraki Metro station. If you prefer a variety of fast food options like pasta, salads, or burgers, several chains are available across the city.
For traditional Greek flavors, many tavernas line the streets of Plaka and the area surrounding the Acropolis. You can enjoy handmade dishes at local spots or find specialized seafood in small alleys. In the Psirrí neighborhood, you can experience a "mezedopolio" where live music accompanies your meal. If you are looking for something unique, some establishments offer a blend of Greek and Turkish cuisine or organic dishes served in garden settings. For those seeking a more refined atmosphere, certain venues offer creative innovations on traditional dishes set against the backdrop of local markets.
- Gostijo offers kosher dining in the Psiri area.
- The area north of Ermou street between Monastiraki and Syntagma provides a variety of cafes and bars for socializing.
What to see and do
Explore the historic heart of the city by wandering through the neighborhoods of Anafiotika, Plaka, Monastiraki, and Thissio. These areas feature narrow winding streets, traditional cafes, and Neoclassical buildings that offer views of the Acropolis. You can also discover small Greek Orthodox churches tucked away among the buildings; these are often decorated with brass fixtures and icons inside.
Visit the Acropolis to see iconic structures such as the Parthenon, the Erechtheion, and the Temple of Athena Nike. The site includes several dramatic ruins in various states of restoration, including the Propylaea gate. Nearby, you can explore the Theatre of Dionysus, where many great Greek plays were first performed, and the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, which still hosts concerts and plays today. Other nearby archaeological sites include the Pnyx, once the meeting place for Athens' early democratic assembly, and the Ancient Agora, a green space offering views of the Acropolis.
- Acropolis Museum
- Ηρώον Ελλήνων του Πόντου
- Μουσείο Γλυπτών & Ομοιωμάτων
Three days in Nea Smyrni
Day one, you can explore the historic atmosphere of Nea Smyrni as you settle into the local surroundings. You can take in the unique character of this area within South Athens.
Day two, you can wander through the nearby neighborhoods of Thissio and Pláka to experience different facets of the city's heritage.
Day three, you can enjoy the coastal vibes near the Saronic Gulf before preparing for your next journey.