Thessaloniki

Introduction

You will find yourself in Thessaloniki, a major urban center and the capital of the region of Macedonia. Known in Greek as i Symprotévousa, or "the co-capital," the city carries a legacy as a former co-reigning seat of the Byzantine Empire alongside Constantinople.

Before you go

Before you arrive in Thessaloniki, prepare to explore a city shaped by its history as a major port and the seat of multiple empires. You will see the architectural layers of Ancient Greek, Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman influences throughout the streets. The city's identity was deeply influenced by its diverse past, including a period when it was known as the "Jerusalem of the Balkans" due to its large Jewish community.

When navigating the city, you can distinguish between different atmospheres based on the neighborhood:

• The City Centre features a modern grid plan and houses most commercial and entertainment facilities.
• Aristotelous Square serves as the focal point of the city for cultural events and celebrations.
• Ano Poli (Upper City) offers a medieval cityscape with stone-paved streets and older Greek and Ottoman architecture that survived the great fire of 1917.

Getting there

You can reach Thessaloniki via several transportation methods, including an extensive domestic and international flight network at the airport located south of the city center. The airport serves as a hub for various regional and international carriers, offering connections to major European destinations, the Middle East, and Turkey. For those traveling by rail, the city serves as a significant hub with daily trains from Athens via Larissa, as well as connections from Alexandroupoli and various cities in Northern Greece. A suburban railway also connects the city to Larissa via Katerini, stopping at numerous smaller villages and towns.

The city is well-connected by an intercity bus network that reaches every corner of Greece, with regular services from major hubs like Athens, Volos, and Istanbul. International routes also connect you to destinations such as Belgrade, Skopje, Sofia, Tirana, and Budapest. From the airport, you can reach the city center via several bus lines, including a 24/7 service connecting the terminal to the New Railway Station and the Macedonia Intercity Bus Terminal. Alternatively, you can take a taxi or choose to walk along a scenic river and seaside trail that leads toward local shopping centers before connecting to city-bound buses.

Getting around

You can navigate the city using a single metro line that traverses the city centre and connects various suburbs. While exploring the underground, you might visit Venizelou station, which houses an active archaeological site known as the "Byzantine Pompeii" and a small museum. For those traveling from the airport, several bus options are available: the 01X provides a direct route to the New Railway Station and the Macedonia InterCity Bus Terminal, while the 02X connects to the Nea Elvetia metro station. If you prefer a guided experience, the "cultural line" (Bus 50) follows a figure-of-8 route past major sights with an English-speaking guide on board.

The city's extensive bus network is managed by OASTH, and you can use mobile apps to plan your journey. For more local travel, licensed taxis are available at ranks or via ride-hailing services, with many drivers able to communicate in both Greek and English. If you prefer cycling, a dedicated lane runs along the seafront; however, other roads are often narrow and less suitable for novice cyclists. You can also utilize the Thessaloniki bike-sharing system, which features stations located primarily near the city centre.

Where to stay

Depending on your budget and preferred atmosphere, you can find a variety of accommodations throughout the city. For those seeking a more modest stay, several hostels offer communal spaces, such as a reconstructed house with a cozy garden area or a location near the waterfront that provides easy access to the train station and airport. Other budget-friendly options include hotels situated in the city center or near the train station, some of which feature balconies or convenient proximity to public transport links.

If you prefer mid-range comfort, numerous hotels are located just a few blocks north of Aristotelous square. You can choose from boutique properties in neo-classical buildings, hotels nestled within lush green parks with views of the gulf, or options situated along the seaside and port area. For a more luxurious experience, several high-end hotels offer premium amenities, including those overlooking the sea at the heart of the city or those located near the new financial district and harbor.

• Stay in a boutique hotel within a neo-classical building for a classic feel.
• Choose a property with a balcony to enjoy the local atmosphere.
• Select a location near the waterfront or port for easy access to the sea.
• Opt for a stay in an all-green setting away from the city center if you prefer a more secluded environment.

Food & drink

Experience the gourmet spirit of Thessaloniki by visiting local ouzeri, where you can enjoy a selection of small dishes such as fava beans, grilled or wine-sauce octopus, and mussels prepared in various ways including fried, in pilaff, or with a hot cheese sauce. For those seeking traditional flavors, try soutzoukakia—minced meat pellets that can be grilled or cooked in a tomato and cumin sauce—or sample seafood specialties like stuffed squid or rice with mussels. If you prefer a hearty breakfast, the city is famous for bougatsa, a type of cream pie often enjoyed with coffee or cacao milk. For a late-night meal, patsas (tripe soup) serves as a traditional option.

Explore the local flavors through seasonal treats and quick bites:

• Grab a crepe in the student-frequented area near Navarinou Square or enjoy a pork or chicken gyro for a filling meal.
• Look for roasted chestnuts from carts during the winter months, or boiled and roasted corn on the cob during the summer.
• Try traditional breads like stafidopsomo with raisins or koulouri with sesame seeds found in bakeries or on carts.
• Sip a creamy hot sahlep during the colder months or enjoy a frappé coffee—a staple of local outdoor culture—during the warmer season.

What to see and do

Explore the layers of history in Thessaloniki by visiting its iconic landmarks and ancient structures. You can walk along the remaining sections of the Byzantine walls or visit the picturesque Upper Town for views over the bay during the late afternoon. The city's primary symbol, the White Tower, serves as a fortified landmark with a museum and observation deck. For a glimpse into the Roman era, you can explore the Arch of Galerius, the Palace of Galerius, and the Roman Forum, which features an underground excavation and museum.

The city's rich Byzantine heritage is reflected in its numerous religious spaces, many of which are adorned with intricate mosaics and murals. You can visit the Rotunda, a massive structure originally built as a temple, or see the ancient mosaics at Saint Demetrios. Other notable sites include the Church of the Acheiropoietos, Hagia Sophia, and Panagia Chalkeon. For those interested in Ottoman history, the city offers the Heptapyrgion fortress, the Bey Hamam baths, and the Alaca Imaret Mosque. You can also trace the local Jewish history by visiting the Jewish Museum or standing at Eleftherias Square.

• Thessaloniki Archaeological Museum
• Museum of Byzantine Culture
• Macedonian Museum of Contemporary Art
• Teloglion Foundation of Art

Three days in Thessaloniki

Day one, you begin your journey in the heart of Thessaloniki. You explore the historic layers of the city where influences from the Byzantine Empire and the Ottoman era meet. You wander through The City Centre to experience the atmosphere of this prominent hub in Northern Greece.

Day two, you venture into the Upper City, also known as Ano Poli. Here, you can appreciate the distinct character of the area while reflecting on the region's history within the Balkans and its connections to neighboring cities like Istanbul and Sofia.

Day three, you visit Aristotelous Square to experience the local culture. You take in the surroundings of this central location, reflecting on the diverse heritage that defines your time in Thessaloniki.