Rennes
Introduction
Located in the eastern part of Brittany in northwestern France, you will find Rennes situated at the confluence of the Ille and Vilaine rivers. As the prefecture of both the Brittany region and the Ille-et-Vilaine department, the city serves as a central hub for the surrounding area.
While exploring the city, you will encounter the local inhabitants known as Rennais or Rennaises.
Before you go
Prepare for the Atlantic climate, where you should expect rain on any given day. As you explore the city, you will find a landscape shaped by history; while much of the original medieval architecture was lost to fire and replaced by stately stone mansions, some older styles remain preserved in the area east of the cathedral. The modern atmosphere is influenced by a large student population that brings a distinct energy to the local bars, particularly on Thursday nights.
When navigating the city, keep your valuables secure and stay alert to traffic and unruly individuals. You can visit the Tourist Office located near the Sainte-Anne Metro station for local information.
Getting there
You can reach Rennes by air via Rennes Bretagne Airport, which hosts regular flights from London and across Europe. From the airport, you can take a shuttle bus to the city center or use the nearby Saint-Jacques de la Lande railway station to catch a short train ride into the city. Alternatively, you can fly into Nantes Atlantique or Paris Charles de Gaulle, both of which offer global connections.
Train travel provides several options for your journey:
- Hourly trains from Paris Montparnasse provide a direct route to the city.
- Regional trains connect Rennes to nearby destinations such as Nantes, Saint-Malo, and Quimper.
- A train from Caen offers a scenic route through Avranches.
Getting around
Walking is your best option for navigating the compact city centre. If you need to travel further, the Star public transport system provides an extensive network of bus lines and two Metro lines (VAL and Neo VAL). These routes primarily operate from early morning until late at night, with the metro lines running later on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday evenings. The Gares station serves as the central hub for these services.
For those preferring to cycle, you can utilize numerous cycle lanes or follow the canal for a pleasant excursion. The STAR, le vélo rental system allows you to pick up bikes from various docking stations after registering online. If you choose to drive, avoid the city centre where parking is scarce and many routes are restricted. Instead, use the Parcs-relais Park & Ride system at designated metro or bus stations, which allows you to park your car and access the transport network. Taxis are also available at Gares.
Where to stay
Depending on your preferred style of accommodation, you can choose between a variety of options ranging from social hostels to comfortable hotels. If you prefer a communal atmosphere, stay at the friendly youth hostel located by the canal or the chic and friendly option situated near the city centre. For those seeking convenience near the train station, several hotels are located on the south flank or directly opposite the entrance, offering easy access for your travels.
For a more relaxed experience, you might choose a comfortable hotel near Place Republique or a cozy stay in the old town center. If you prefer the outdoors, a large parkland site on the northeast edge of the city remains open year-round. Other options include a mid-price chain known for its service and comfort.
Food & drink
Savor the local flavors of Brittany by trying a galette—a salted crepe made with buckwheat flour—or a galette-saucisse, which features roasted pork sausage wrapped in a galette. You can also enjoy lait ribot, a half-fermented milk that is sometimes served with boiled chestnuts.
Explore various dining scenes across the city:
- Visit the "Little Asia" of affordable eateries on Rue de Saint-Malo or find numerous budget-friendly options along Rue Saint-Georges.
- Experience a wide range of local staples, from traditional crêperies and French cuisine to organic cafes with vegetarian and vegan selections.
- For a more refined experience, choose from fine dining establishments that blend French traditions with seasonal ingredients or Far-Eastern influences.
- Browse the fresh-food market hall for various options, including a street food market held on the first Sunday of each month.
Your evening can continue at several bars and cafes:
- Relax in an Irish pub with live sports or visit a cafe-bar featuring board games and hot chocolate.
- Find a late-night cocktail bar tucked away in vaulted cellars or head to a venue where a toy train delivers your shots.
- Enjoy a selection of draught beers, particularly Belgian varieties, or find a lively spot that occasionally features live music.
What to see and do
Explore the historic heart of the city where you can wander through streets lined with well-preserved half-timbered houses, particularly in the area east of the Cathedral Saint-Pierre. Nearby, you can visit the Portes Mordelaise, the last remaining city gate, and the Saint-Sauveur Basilica. The compact Church of Saint-Pierre & Saint-Etienne is nestled between the cathedral and the basilica. For a look into local history, the Musée de Bretagne showcases Breton culture in a modern building, while the nearby Musée des Beaux-Arts houses 17th-century paintings and works from the Pont-Aven school. You can also visit the grand Parlement de Bretagne or see contemporary art at Frac Bretagne.
Experience the city's diverse cultural offerings through its various landmarks and events:
- Relax in Parc du Thabor, which features a formal French garden, an English-style landscape garden, and a botanical garden with many roses.
- Visit the Espace des Sciences to explore science exhibits or visit the nearby Notre-Dame-en-Saint-Melaine.
- Experience local culture through a Fest Noz, a traditional evening of music and dancing, or attend large music festivals like Yaouank in the autumn.
- Catch a performance at the Théâtre National de Bretagne or the Opera de Rennes.
Three days in Rennes
Day one, you can begin your journey in the heart of Brittany. Explore the local atmosphere as you settle into the Rennais culture and experience the unique character of the region.
Day two, you can travel through the surrounding areas to discover more of the landscape. You might choose to explore nearby locations or simply enjoy the sights of the area.
Day three, you can spend your final day taking in the local scenery before preparing for your departure from the region.