Las Palmas de Gran Canaria

Introduction

Las Palmas de Gran Canaria is the capital and largest city of Spain's Canary Islands, and one of the country's major urban centres. It sits among the larger Spanish cities by population and anchors a substantial urban and metropolitan area, so you can expect the amenities and energy of a sizeable city rather than a small island town.

Before you go

Las Palmas has no single city centre: its nucleus is the old town of Vegueta, and the city spreads across five administrative districts, each divided into barrios. Most visitors gravitate to Puerto-Canteras, which has the largest concentration of hotels and nightlife, along with Canteras Beach, the most popular of the city's five beaches. Triana, north of the old town across a partly paved-over stream, is a pedestrianised shopping street lined with Art Nouveau buildings, while Ciudad Jardin, built in the 1930s in Rationalist style, holds the Doramas Park and Pueblo Canario. Ciudad Alta is mostly residential but draws visitors to its sports stadium and fairgrounds, and Tamaraceite-San Lorenzo, the largest and least densely populated district, has hardly any visitor attractions. The city is a year-round destination, but it is windier than the south of Gran Canaria, which makes it feel cooler than the temperatures alone suggest; the sea is at its coolest in March and warmest in October, and the UV index peaks between June and August.

Before you go, it helps to know that the tourist information service, the Patronato de Turismo de Gran Canaria, runs four kiosks around the city: in Santa Catalina Park, at Santa Catalina in front of the El Muelle mall (open only on days when cruise ships visit), in San Telmo square, and at the old town hall. On safety, if you have a ground-level veranda or patio, don't leave doors or windows open unattended. Stay away from anyone offering you anything for free, such as lottery tickets or a free meal, as these are often salespeople pushing potentially worthless holiday club memberships or dodgy time-shares; they may seem pleasant at first but can turn hostile. Late at night, groups of drunk revellers outside nightclubs can occasionally turn aggressive, so if you're out in the small hours, taking a taxi is the safer option.

Getting there

Gran Canaria International Airport (LPA) sits near Telde, roughly 70 km south of Las Palmas, with flights from across Northern, Western and Central Europe, mainland Spain, Italy, the other Canary Islands and a few from Africa. To reach the city, take a Global interisland blue bus: routes 1, 5, 11, 60 and 91 all run to Las Palmas, with the #60 and #91 as the airport–city express lines. Buses serve either San Telmo Park in the centre, close to the Vegueta and Triana historic areas, or Santa Catalina Park further north by the port, marina and Las Canteras beach. Services run roughly every 30 minutes through the day and night, but you must press the stop button to signal your stop or the driver may pass it. Global buses let you stow luggage underneath and do not permit standing; city Guagua buses require you to keep luggage with you and allow standing. Bicycles travel only in a bag or box, and a driver may refuse luggage or a bike depending on space. Taxis pick up only at designated queues at the airport and are the most efficient but most expensive option, accepting cash and most cards. Rental cars suit groups, but drivers generally must be over 23 to 25, hold a valid licence and sometimes an international permit, and be able to drive manual transmission; book direct through the company website, as third-party and package-deal bookings carry extra fees and scams.

By boat, the Port of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria receives ships from around the world, with frequent ferries from Fuerteventura, Lanzarote, Tenerife and the smaller islands, operated mainly by Naviera Armas and Fred Olsen alongside smaller companies. Fred Olsen ferries dock at nearby Agaete rather than in the city. Each ferry runs a passenger bus for walk-on travellers between the dock and near the Santa Catalina city bus station; you must select this connection when booking, or visit the ferry company ticket office for help. The shuttle normally departs an hour before sailing from the designated stop, and missing it can cost time and money, as the docking ports are a long way from public transit. Buy any onward public transit tickets online in advance, since most city buses do not accept cash on board. From mainland Spain, Transmediterránea sails weekly from Cádiz on Saturdays, a journey of about 40 hours, and there are no ferries from Morocco. Naviera Armas ferries arrive at their own pier with no public transport, but the company runs free shuttles from El Muelle shopping mall beside its main office near the Santa Catalina interisland bus station, while Fred Olsen's shuttle leaves from near the children's park in Santa Catalina Park's outdoor bus station.

Getting around

Las Palmas has no rail, metro or tram network, so you get around by road or on foot. The central districts of Vegueta and Triana, near San Telmo Station, are well suited to walking, and the waterfront is linked by promenades: the Paseo de Las Canteras runs parallel to the beach from near the Auditorio Alfredo Kraus to the Puntilla and on to Playa del Confital, while another promenade starts at Las Alcaravaneras, connects with Playa de San Cristóbal and continues south to Playa de La Laja. Note that the historic old town and the northern beach and port area around Las Canteras and Santa Catalina sit some distance apart, so you will likely need a bus or taxi to move between them.

The bright yellow city buses, known as guaguas, are run by Guaguas Municipales and are widely considered the best bus system in the archipelago. A single fare covers travel in one direction only, and you cannot stay on for a circular journey. Cash purchases from drivers have not always been permitted and single journey tickets have not been available, so buy a plastic top-up card in advance — online or at Guagua booths at Santa Catalina Park, San Telmo Station or Teatro. The least expensive option is a two-journey ticket validated once on boarding; a ten-ride card plus a one-time fee for the rechargeable card itself is described as the best deal if you want to avoid paperwork. Family passes give further discounts, and children under six travel free — don't tap or pay for them, as refunds are not possible and cards are charged for every tap. Students, seniors and families of up to five get additional discounts with valid ID and the applicable forms, and if you are over 70 and staying longer you can apply for a Senior Citizens Pass at the San Telmo bus station with passport photos and a small fee. Cards can be recharged at machines in libraries, malls and bus stations and at store kiosks around the city. Useful lines include Line 1 (Teatro – Puerto), Line 12 (Hoya de la Plata – Puerto) and Line 30 (Alameda de Colón – Santa Catalina).

For the rest of the island, use the blue Global interisland buses, which accept most debit and credit cards on board and allow luggage underneath — but standing is not permitted, so you may have to wait for the next bus if it is full. On city guaguas you must be able to carry and secure your luggage yourself, and standing is allowed. On either system, bicycles are only carried in a bag or box and must be carried by their owner. The city has two main bus stations and knowing which you need matters: San Telmo Station in the centre, close to Vegueta and Triana, and Santa Catalina Interchange near the port, also served by city buses and taxis.

Taxis are the most efficient way to travel but also the most expensive; those with a green light on are vacant and can be flagged down, and you can also use one of the city's taxi stops or call for one. There is just one major bike route, which leads to most sites visitors typically go to, and a rental scheme called Sitycleta: you open an account online with a debit or credit card, then unlock a bike at a station and return it there or to another station, billed for the time in between. Biking can be uncomfortable in the hot weather, and unless you are familiar with the local style of driving, stay off the major streets.

Driving is no fun on workdays or in commercial and leisure zones, and the street plan is not rectilinear, so it can confuse even experienced drivers. Parking is expensive in most places, though some shopping malls offer limited free parking and shop receipts may cover your stay. On the upside, gasoline is significantly cheaper than in the rest of Spain and Europe, there are no toll roads, and entrances, exits, main streets and important zones are well signposted. Photo radar cameras and heavy police traffic enforcement are common, so do not park illegally — fines are high, especially in rural areas and at historic, cultural or natural sites. Spain's driving laws have quirks not seen elsewhere, including priority to the outside lane in traffic circles, and paying the person who helps you park does not mean the meter is fed. The emergency number in Spain is 112, and many areas of Gran Canaria have no cell phone service because of the island's geography.

Where to stay

Where you sleep in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria depends largely on how close you want to be to the sand. Las Canteras is the anchor for most of the accommodation, from budget guesthouses to the city's grandest addresses. In the budget bracket you'll find small hostels and guesthouses such as Alcaravaneras Hostel and Hostal Falow, both clean and inexpensive, while Hello House Hostel sits on a hillside a steep walk uphill from the San Telmo bus station and takes bookings only through Airbnb with a minimum stay, no reception desk, and no wheelchair access. Hotel Apartamento Bajamar offers apartments with kitchenettes a short stroll from the beach, near the Mesa y Lopez commercial area.

Mid-range choices cluster around the Paseo de Las Canteras and the Triana district. Hotel Madrid is an old, renovated historic property in Triana that retains its period atmosphere, and the two NH hotels sit right on the Paseo de Las Canteras overlooking the ocean. Hotel Verol, a small guesthouse open since the 1960s, is just metres from the beach, and Hotel The Fataga provides the usual mid-range comforts along with a restaurant and workspace. For a splurge, the Santa Catalina is the city's grand colonial-style landmark, long favoured by political and cultural figures, while the Reina Isabel & Spa stands on the Las Canteras promenade with a rooftop pool, spa and views over both city and sea. Hotel Cristina, the most luxurious of the beachfront hotels, rounds out the top end.

Food & drink

Menus often appear in several languages, and waiters can frequently converse in your own. For inexpensive eating, the San Telmo neighbourhood is full of budget restaurants, among them Restaurante Bodegón Lagunetas, a large place with a terrace serving typical food and a menu of the day, Gourie 41 for home-style cooking and a daily menu, Midway for omelettes and tortillas, and La Coqueta de Cano, a small tavern for tapas. Sakura City, below the San Telmo Park Hotel by the main bus station, offers Japanese and Asian cooking with a seated all-you-can-eat buffet. In the city centre, try Tasca Galileo, a tavern with a rustic interior, Bochinche El Chato, a small family-run spot for Canarian dishes, Bar Cafetería Ricarepa for Venezuelan food such as cachapas and handmade arepas, Mama Angela for fish pasta, pizza and goat meat, Verde Limón for homemade Canarian cooking, or Bodegón Pachichi for Canarian tapas. Elsewhere, Pizzería Pomodoro serves low-priced Italian food.

Mid-range options cluster in San Telmo and the centre. In San Telmo you'll find La Candella for wood-fired pizzas, La Travesia de Triana, a tapas bar with a wide wine selection where the grilled octopus and fried black pudding stand out, Restaurante Que leche! for broken eggs and aguachile, Tasca Siete Viejas, a characterful tapas bar in Vegueta, and La Dolce Vita, an Italian restaurant known for pasta. In the centre, Restaurante Samoa is a local favourite for Spanish food and tapas, Restaurante Ons serves large portions and a recommended potato salad with shrimps, Restaurante Tabla Caliente cooks in front of you, and Sakura I offers Japanese cooking. For a splurge, Camino al Jamonal specialises in jamón and ibérico and has few tables, so book ahead, while Restaurante Marisquería Rías Bajas serves Spanish seafood with a central terrace. To drink, local choices include Arehucas rum, taken straight or with cola, and Tropical beer; bars range from Bodegón Pachichi, a cheap local favourite, to Bar San Remo with pool and darts, the Chester Lounge & Bar nightclub, the blues and rock of NYC TAXI RockBar, the rooftop La Azotea de Benito, and Ginger, a cocktail bar on Paseo las Canteras.

What to see and do

Las Palmas rewards you whether you stay in the old town or head for the sand. In Vegueta, the historic core, the Catedral de Santa Ana anchors the centre and can be seen from almost anywhere; begun in 1497, it mixes Gothic, Baroque and Neoclassical styles, and you can climb to a viewing platform between the towers for city views. Facing it, Plaza de Santa Ana is lined with grand buildings and eight statues of dogs carved from green rock. Nearby, the Casa Museo de Colón occupies the house where Columbus stayed while his ships were repaired, and now displays ship models, a replica of a cabin of La Niña, Canary Islands history and an art gallery. The Museo Canario holds the island's largest collection of pre-Spanish objects, including a replica of the Cueva Pintada cave with mummies. Art lovers can visit the Centro Atlántico de Arte Moderno in a former bank building, the Museo Néstor in Pueblo Canario, and the Ermita de San Antonio Abad, a former church used as an exhibition space. Pueblo Canario itself is a reconstruction of a traditional village in Doramas Park, with a craft centre and folkloric shows. Other landmarks include the Castillo de la Luz, a 16th-century fort with a rose garden, cultural centre and shipping museum, and the Alfredo Kraus Auditorium for classical concerts.

As a beach town, the city is built for oceanside activity. Playa de Las Canteras, nearly four kilometres long, is the symbol of the city: its northern stretch has golden sand and is good for swimming at low tide when the barrier creates a natural pool, the central area works as a natural aquarium for snorkelling and feeding shore-dwelling fish, and the southern end has black sand and surf schools. Surfers also head to Playa de la Laja and to breaks such as "La Cicer" and "La Barra". Playa de Las Alcaravaneras, by the port, suits tanning rather than swimming, while Playa del Confital has a volcanic rock surface and is mostly used by locals. On land, you can hike the coastal path along the black volcanic cliffs of the La Isleta peninsula, where large crabs sun themselves, or play golf at one of the city's courses. The Carnaval, held over 25 days in February and March around Santa Catalina Park, is a major event, opening with el pregón, and the local newspaper La Provincia covers upcoming events.

When to go

Las Palmas de Gran Canaria works as a year-round destination, with mild winters and warm summers. Do bear in mind that the city is windier than southern Gran Canaria, and that wind can take the edge off the winter temperatures.

• Winter: Temperatures stay mild, but the wind can make it feel cooler. The sea is at its cooler end, reaching its lowest point of the year in March, so swimming is at its coolest then.
• Summer: Expect the warmest and sunniest conditions of the year, along with the year's highest UV index, so sun protection matters.
• October: The sea temperature peaks, making this the warmest time of year for swimming.

Festivals & events

Three days in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria

Day one: Start in Vegueta, the old quarter, where the streets are the oldest in Las Palmas and the architecture is at its most traditional. Wander from there to Triana, the commercial heart of the city, where the buildings show off an Art Nouveau character. In the evening, head towards Santa Catalina Park and Santa Catalina itself, near El Muelle, for a sense of the port-side city.

Day two: Give the day to the coast. Canteras Beach is the city's main stretch of sand, and the water is warm enough for swimming through much of the year, though the UV can be strong in June and August, so take care in the middle of the day. Before you settle, walk the Paseo de Canteras and take in the view back towards the city. Late in the day, move inland to Doramas Park and Pueblo Canario, where the gardens and Canarian architecture make a calm contrast to the beach.

Day three: Head up to Ciudad Alta, the upper part of the city, and on to Ciudad Jardin, where the Rationalist architecture gives the neighbourhood its distinct look. If you have time before your flight from Gran Canaria International Airport (LPA), stop at San Telmo or Patronato de Turismo for information, and consider a detour south towards Telde or north along the coast. March and October are pleasant months for walking, while the summer heat in June and August can be intense.