Almeria

Introduction

Almería is the capital of the province of the same name in Andalusia, in southeastern Iberia. The city spreads out between the eastern fringes of the Sierra de Gádor and the Andarax riverbed, along the coastline of the Gulf of Almería, a large inlet of the Mediterranean Sea.

Before you go

Almería takes its name from the Arabic for "mirror of the sea", a name it kept after the city was recaptured by the Spanish — a reminder that you are heading into a place shaped by its Moorish past as much as by the Mediterranean on its doorstep. It is an average-sized Andalusian city on the coast, and the surrounding region includes the Cabo de Gata Natural Park, so plan for both urban wandering and time in protected coastal landscape.

Pack for a hot, arid climate. Winters here are very mild, while summers are long and hot and can be punishing in July and August, when shade offers little relief. Almería is generally peaceful and robbery or crime is highly unlikely, though locals may suggest you avoid a couple of neighbourhoods after dark.

Getting there

Almería airport (LEI) sits to the east of the city and handles domestic flights plus connections to other parts of Europe. Iberia runs regular domestic services, while low-cost carriers including EasyJet, Jet2 and Ryanair offer a mix of year-round and seasonal flights from cities across Europe, with international connections increasing in summer. Car hire is available at the airport, and municipal bus route #30 runs from there to the city centre and to the bus/train station. As an alternative, you can fly into Málaga Airport, which has flights to most major European airports and some beyond, though it lies a considerable distance from Almería. From Málaga you can take a bus to Málaga's main bus and train stations, then continue to Almería by ALSA bus, a journey of three to five hours depending on intermediate stops; tickets can be bought on the ALSA website, and the bus stops at the Estación Intermodal downtown.

By train, Almería Intermodal Station lies southeast of the city centre, a 10- to 15-minute walk away by El Cable. Service is limited because the city sits at the end of a long branch line: RENFE operates a Talgo service to Madrid Chamartín and a regional service from Sevilla via Granada and Córdoba. The route from Madrid is slow but remarkably scenic, winding through desert landscape of barren mountains and remote arroyos where cacti and palms survive on underground moisture, passing Guadix with its cliff-backed cave buildings before breaking through to the flat Meseta. The Almería–Granada route has been praised as recommended slow travel. By road, the A-7 highway links Almería with the Mediterranean coast from the French frontier at La Jonquera to Algeciras, while the A-92 connects the city with the rest of Andalusia and Madrid; both are toll-free. The bus station is combined with the train station, immediately southeast of the centre near the Cable, with buses arriving from Jaén, Málaga, Granada and other cities throughout the day, less frequent long-distance services along the coast to Barcelona and up to Madrid, and additional options if you route through Granada. Only long-distance buses use the station itself. By boat, the Port of Almería south of downtown has ferries to Melilla, to Nador in Morocco, and to Ghazaouet and Oran in Algeria, all carrying cars as well as passengers; a fast-ferry to Melilla saves significant time. Sightseeing catamaran cruises also depart from the port for coastal excursions around the Bay of Almería and nearby destinations such as Roquetas de Mar, Almerimar and Cabo de Gata.

Getting around

Almería is a compact, mostly flat city despite the mountains around it, and its dry, sunny climate makes walking the simplest way to get around the centre. Shaded streets keep strolling between the sights, the port and the historic centre comfortable for much of the year, and you are unlikely to be caught out by rain. The Port of Almería lies just south of the downtown, within easy reach on foot, while the Intermodal Station — which combines the train and long-distance bus stations — sits south-east of the centre near El Cable, roughly a 10- to 15-minute walk away.

For longer hops across town, a comprehensive municipal bus network is operated by Surbus. Services are not especially frequent, but fares are affordable and routes and timetables are published on the operator's website. Note that the bus station at the Intermodal Station only handles long-distance buses; some municipal buses stop outside it but do not start or terminate there. There is no metro or tram network, and the train station doubles as the city's main bus terminal. Almería's rail connections are limited because it sits at the end of a long branch line rather than on a through route: RENFE runs a Talgo service to Madrid Chamartín and a regional service from Sevilla via Granada and Córdoba, with the Madrid route slow but famously scenic and the Almería–Granada stretch recommended as slow travel. Taxis are a conventional option for luggage-heavy trips, late nights, or reaching the airport and port. Almería Airport lies to the east and is served by municipal bus route #30, which runs to the city centre and to the bus and train station; car hire is available at the airport. From the Port of Almería, ferries cross to Melilla, Nador, Ghazaouet and Oran, all carrying cars as well as passengers, and sightseeing catamaran cruises depart for the Bay of Almería and nearby destinations such as Roquetas de Mar, Almerimar and Cabo de Gata.

Where to stay

Food & drink

Almería eats and drinks the Spanish way: tapas bars are scattered all over town, and locals typically make the rounds of them before heading out to the night's fiesta. Expect a choice of meat, fish and seafood, along with typical tortillas and potato dishes.

• Paseo Marítimo – the pedestrian street by the sea is lined with bars de tapa where you can take breakfast, coffee, juices, beers and tapas with a view of the sea and the sunsets.
• Calle Mayor – a tapas bar in the centre, between the Rambla and the Paseo de Almería. Its tapas often differ from the usual choices elsewhere in the city, and some are vegetarian. In the evenings a caña (a smaller glass than a tubo) with a tapa is inexpensive.
• 46 – in the centre, in the Cuatro Calles area, this is an Italian tapas bar, adding lasagna and pastas to the standard tapas selection.

For drinking, most of the bars are in the area locals call Cuatro Calles, in the very centre of the city just below the Cathedral plaza. Depending on the day, a litre of beer can be very cheap in some bars.

What to see and do

Almería's most commanding sight is the Alcazaba, a massive Arabic hilltop fortress in the middle of town. Its intricate stucco work once rivalled that of the Alhambra, though much was destroyed or removed during periods of abandonment; what survives is beautiful, and a sympathetic restoration has created shaded gardens and fountains that make the site a haven of tranquility, with fantastic views over the city. The main path up leads from C/ Joaquín Santiestaban, and Bus L1 stops at the bottom of the steps. Be prepared to climb: the site sits on a rocky outcrop and spreads over multiple terraces, and it is frequently used for exhibitions and shows.

Elsewhere in the city you can see the Cathedral of Santa María de la Encarnación, whose towers, merlons and protected paths give it a fortress-like appearance created to defend it from Mediterranean pirates; built as a mosque and later converted into a Christian church before being destroyed in the 1522 earthquake, it was rebuilt in the 16th century in the Renaissance style while keeping some defensive features. Other sights include the Casa de los Marqueses de Torre Alta, the John Lennon Monument, Las Claras Convent, the Palace of the Marquees of Cabra and the Palace of the Viscounts of the Castillo de Almansa. For beaches, head to Las Salinas and La Almadrava de Monteleva. Just outside the city is the Natural Park of Cabo de Gata Nijar, a volcano area with virgin beaches and isolated coves. In the Tabernaz desert, film studios used for many spaghetti westerns, parts of Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade and Game of Thrones can partly be visited. For football, UD Almería play in the Segunda División at the Power Horse Stadium, on the riverbank east of the city centre.

When to go

Almería has a hot, arid climate, with very mild winters and long, hot summers. Winter is a comfortable time to be outdoors, so you can explore the city and the coast without the heat of the middle of the year.

Summer is a different matter: the season is long and hot, and July and August often reach and exceed the highest temperatures of the year in the shade. Expect intense heat that makes midday outdoor activity difficult, and plan your time outside around it.

Three days in Almeria

Day one: Start in Almería itself, where the Arabic and Moorish past shapes the old centre. Walk the streets of the Andalusian city and take in the Mediterranean light before heading to the coast. In July and August the city is hot, so plan your walking for the cooler hours. Winters here are mild, which makes off-season wandering comfortable. Use the Estación Intermodal if you arrive by ALSA coach, or Almería Intermodal Station for RENFE services; the Talgo from Madrid Chamartín is one option, and El Cable is the local service. If you fly, LEI is the airport, served by EasyJet and Ryanair from across Europe.

• Base yourself in Almería and explore the old centre on foot.
• Arrive by ALSA to the Estación Intermodal, by RENFE Talgo from Madrid Chamartín, or fly into LEI.

Day two: Head east toward Cabo de Gata Natural Park, where the Sierra and the coast meet the Mediterranean Sea. The Gulf of Almería and the Andarax valley sit between the city and the park, with the Sierra de Gádor rising inland. The park is dry and bright, and summer heat is strong, so carry water and start early. A car gives you the most freedom along this stretch, though it is also reachable from Málaga Airport if you are coming from that direction.

• Spend the day around Cabo de Gata Natural Park.
• Note the Sierra de Gádor and the Andarax valley on the inland side.
• A car is the easiest way to reach the park.

Day three: Return to Almería for a slower day. The city sits on the Gulf of Almería, facing the Mediterranean Sea, and its character is both Spanish and Moorish. If you are continuing your trip, Málaga Airport and Málaga are the main European connections nearby, and ALSA coaches link the region. Pack for warm, dry weather in summer and mild winters, and keep the coast and the Sierra in mind as you plan your route.

• Spend your last day in Almería at an easy pace.
• Málaga and Málaga Airport are useful onward connections.
• Pack for hot, dry summers and mild winters.