Pamplona
Introduction
Pamplona is the capital of the Chartered Community of Navarre in Spain, and you may also see it written as Pampeluna in older English texts. It is a substantial city, though not one of Spain's largest.
Before you go
Pamplona is best known for San Fermín, when the bulls run through the streets. If you plan to be in the city during the festival, prepare for crowds and take basic precautions: pickpockets are active and skilled at spotting visitors, so keep your belongings with you and don't leave anything unattended. Be wary of strangers who approach you to chat or offer palm readings.
- Don't wear flip-flops or sandals during San Fermín — the streets get filthy and there may be broken glass on the ground.
- To join the crowd, follow local tradition: white t-shirt and trousers, a red neckerchief, and a red scarf around your waist. You can buy the outfit from street shops.
Getting there
Pamplona has its own small airport, Noain Airport, with flights connecting it to several Spanish cities — Iberia operates several times a day from Madrid and Barcelona, and Lufthansa flies from Frankfurt. For a wider choice of international flights, look at Bilbao, Zaragoza or Biarritz in France, all within a few hours by road.
Trains run daily to and from Madrid, Barcelona, Vitoria, Galicia, Asturias, Zaragoza and Burgos, as well as to smaller Navarran towns such as Tafalla and Tudela; urban buses link the train station with the city centre. Buses are the cheapest option, with several daily services from Madrid, Barcelona, San Sebastián, Bilbao, Vitoria, Zaragoza and Logroño, and near-daily connections to almost every town and village in the region — useful if you want to reach the castle at Olite, the Romanesque art of Estella or the old streets and cathedral of Tudela without a car. Driving is straightforward too: Madrid and Barcelona are both about four hours away, Biarritz an hour and a half, San Sebastián an hour, Bilbao and Zaragoza two hours, and Logroño an hour, with underground parking widely available.
Getting around
Pamplona is a compact, largely walkable city, and most visitors find that their own two feet cover the centre very well. Walking is the most practical way to experience central Pamplona: the historic core, its parks and its food-and-wine culture are all best taken in slowly on foot, and the city rewards strolling rather than rushing. The one big exception is San Fermín, when the streets are packed with celebrating crowds. If you want a good view of the morning bullrun from the street, you need to claim your spot at least two hours in advance, and the sheer number of people in the centre makes moving around slow and deliberate.
There is no metro or tram network in Pamplona. The railway station is served by daily trains connecting the city with Madrid, Barcelona, Vitoria, Galicia, Asturias, Zaragoza and Burgos, as well as with other towns in Navarre such as Tafalla and Tudela, and it is linked to the city centre by urban buses, so arriving by rail means a short onward bus ride or walk. Buses are the mainstay of public transport in and around the city, and almost every town and village in Navarre is connected daily by bus to Pamplona, which makes the network a very good option if you don't have a car but want to visit places such as the castle at Olite, the Romanesque art of Estella, or the old streets and cathedral of Tudela. For longer journeys, bus is described as the cheapest way to reach Pamplona, with several daily services from Madrid, Barcelona, San Sebastián, Bilbao, Vitoria, Zaragoza, Logroño and many other cities. Driving is also a viable option for reaching Pamplona and for exploring Navarre, and once in the city, underground parking is widely available. The source material does not describe Pamplona's taxi or ride-hailing services in detail, so expect to arrange taxis locally, and for the airport transfer in particular it is worth confirming options on arrival.
Where to stay
Pamplona offers a range of places to stay, from pitching a tent to checking into one of the city's classiest hotels. Budget travellers have several options: many sleep in the open for free in the parks throughout Pamplona, and the El Molino campground nearby has campsites, cabins and rooms, though it definitely requires booking during the San Fermín festival. It sits about 25 minutes from the centre, with shuttle rides available and others around keen to share. Further afield, the Lizarra camp at Estella is roughly half an hour away by coach and has a bar, restaurant, shop, showers and a pool, while Tali Mendi at Zarautz on the coast is about 1 hour 15 minutes away by coach, a few hundred metres from the beach. In the city itself, a room in one of the makeshift hostals on Calle Estafeta - the segment where the bulls run and where the fun is located - is a good option; always bargain for a terrace when asking for the price. The Albergue Municipal de Peregrinos at the Iglesia de Jesus y Maria on Calle Compañía and Albergue Casa Paderborn are also available.
For mid-range stays, the Avenida on Zaragoza has midsize guest rooms with sleek, modern furnishings and watercolours adding a warm touch. Hotel Eslava on Plaza Virgen de la O contains 28 units and is a 10-minute walk from the bus station; this renovated hotel combines old and new spirits of Spain, with tastefully decorated rooms, many with balconies overlooking the city. Hotel Tres Reyes on Jardines de la Taconera is one of the finest hotels in Pamplona, a short walk west of Old Town and close to the ancient citadel, with tasteful furnishings, plenty of sunlight, many balconies, and a restaurant, bar, outdoor pool, sauna, exercise room and babysitting service. At the top end, NH El Toro is 5 km out of Pamplona and good for families; NH Iruna Park Hotel near the University of Pamplona has comfortable guest rooms and well-equipped bathrooms, plus a restaurant, bar, babysitting service and room service; and La Perla on Plaza De Castillo is regarded as one of the classiest hotels in Pamplona, with its own restaurant and bar, beautiful furnishings and beautiful views of the central plaza.
Food & drink
In Pamplona, tapas are called pintxos, and unlike in southern Spain they don't come free with your drink. Most are small nouvelle-cuisine plates, so they're worth trying, and going out for a drink and pintxos is a social event with no settled time. The same bars that serve pintxos also prepare menús del día and dinner at Spanish lunch and dinner times. Navarra's cuisine stands out for the quality of its vegetables — asparagus, artichokes and piquillo red peppers — and you can always fall back on typical Spanish dishes. Outside Sanfermines, many eateries close, so plan around that. The old city has plenty of restaurants, from budget menús del día at lunch to more expensive, renowned venues. For budget eating, try Meson Pirineo on Estafeta for huge portions of Basque specialties and a hearty bean stew, or Askartza on Calle de San Lorenzo for a menu of the day with first, second, drink and dessert. Tapas bars include Rhodes Cafe Pamplona on Calle de Estella, Bar Gorriti on Calle San Gregorio, Bar Casa Jesús Mari on Calle de San Agustín, and the classic tavern La Servicial Vinícola on Calle Navarro Villoslada; Hostería del Temple on Calle Curia serves down-home cooking. In the oldest part of town, Casa Otano is a popular tavern-styled restaurant known for feeding generations of residents and for succulent meats, while Restaurante Vegetariano Sarasate specializes in vegetarian platters with vegan and gluten-free offerings. For a splurge, Europa near Plaza del Castillo is regarded among the best restaurants in the region, with a seasonal menu. To drink, order Navarra wine as tinto, clarete or rosado, try the liquor Patxaran, and make sure to sample sangria, a red wine punch with fruit and honey whose strength varies. Calle San Nicolas, Calle Estafeta and Calle de Jarauta are lined with bars, pubs and bodegas, most without signs, so wander in and out. Cafe Iruña on Plaza del Castillo draws crowds around the bar in the cold months and becomes more like a restaurant at lunch.What to see and do
During San Fermín, held city-wide from 6 to 14 July, the txupinazo rocket is fired from the City Hall balcony at noon on the 6th, setting off a large street party that continues through the week. The festival's best-known feature is the encierro, the running of the bulls, staged every subsequent morning (not on the 6th, since the festival only starts at noon), when six bulls run through the town centre towards the bullring while the adventurous and foolhardy run in front of them. If you want to run, arrive at the track early; police will eject you if you are drunk, and runners are not allowed to carry a camera. The event divides opinion: some see it as tradition and cultural heritage, others as animal cruelty not to be supported. On some mornings during San Fermín you can enter the bullring for free to watch student bullfighters practise, and free access to the main event after the bull run can be gained by running the last segment of the run into the bullring. On 5 July, PETA stages a "running of the nudes" in protest at the bullfights; no one is totally naked, as that is against the law. The Plaza de Toros, the bullring and end point of the encierro, is still used for bullfights. The Museo de Navarra, on Cuesta de Santa Domingo, occupies a 16th-century hospital and holds rich collections of Roman artifacts including 2nd-century mosaics, Romanesque art, an important Goya portrait, Gothic and Renaissance paintings, and 13th-century murals. Pamplona's Gothic cathedral was built during the 14th and 15th centuries and has a neoclassical façade completed by Ventura Rodriguez in 1783; a museum next to it covers the building's history and architecture. For football, CA Osasuna play in La Liga at Estadio El Sadar, south of the city centre.When to go
Pamplona's climate is humid subtropical with a Mediterranean rainfall pattern, and its inland setting at altitude makes it more extreme than the nearby northern coast. Summer is the driest stretch of the year, with highs warmer than on the coast, giving you the most reliable dry weather for exploring the city.
Winter is the harshest season here: lows are colder than in the nearby coastal areas because of the altitude and inland location, and days are cooler than on the Basque coast. Sunshine hours are typical for northern Spain, so expect overcast spells.
Festivals & events
Pamplona's calendar is dominated by the Festival of San Fermín, known locally as the Sanfermines, held every July. This is the celebration that defines the city's image at home and abroad, and if your visit coincides with it, expect Pamplona to be transformed: streets packed from morning until well past midnight, music and processions, and a party that runs for days rather than hours. The Sanfermines are also the reason accommodation and transport book up far in advance, so plan well ahead if July is your target. Outside the festival month, the city returns to its everyday rhythm, and the source material lists no other named events, so time your trip around San Fermín if festivals are your priority.Three days in Pamplona
Day one: Arrive in Pamplona, the capital of the Chartered Community of Navarre in Spain, known historically as Pampeluna in English. If you fly in, Noain Airport serves the city, with Spanish carriers such as Iberia connecting through Madrid and Barcelona, and Lufthansa via Frankfurt. For those coming overland, Bilbao, Zaragoza and Biarritz in France are within reach, and trains also link Vitoria, Galicia, Asturias and Burgos. Once settled, spend your first day getting your bearings in the city itself, saving the wider region for later.
- Arrive via Noain Airport or by train from Vitoria, Burgos, Galicia or Asturias
- Use Pamplona as your base for the whole three days
Day two: Head out into Navarre. Navarran towns such as Tafalla, Tudela and Olite are reachable, and buses run to San Sebastián and Logroño. Olite is known for its Romanesque heritage, as is Estella. Driving gives you the most flexibility for covering this ground, though buses and trains serve several of these places too.
- Olite and Estella for Romanesque architecture
- Tafalla and Tudela as further Navarran stops
- Buses toward San Sebastián and Logroño
Day three: Return to Pamplona and give the city its due. If your visit coincides with San Fermín, the streets take on a completely different character, and you should plan around the crowds accordingly. Otherwise, use the day to explore Pamplona at an easier pace before departing from Noain Airport or by train toward Vitoria, Burgos, Galicia or Asturias.
- San Fermín transforms the city if you are there for it
- Depart from Noain Airport or by train