Hurghada
Introduction
Hurghada is a coastal city on the Red Sea and the capital of the Red Sea Governorate. It began as a small fishing village and has grown into one of the largest resort destinations along the Red Sea coast, with the built-up area stretching close to 40 km.
Before you go
Hurghada began as a small fishing village on the Red Sea and is now a major resort destination, popular with budget travellers especially from Europe and Russia. It has many hotels lining the shoreline and numerous flights, particularly from airports across Europe. Many visitors combine a stay here with trips to other prominent locations along the Nile Valley, including the relatively nearby city of Luxor. The climate is very dry, with rainfall very rare. Summer days are very hot and summer nights quite hot; winter is generally warm by day but cool by night, and it can be downright cold when the Shamal wind blows down from the northeast. Because of the heat combined with inadequate food hygiene, gastrointestinal ailments are common, so it is worth being careful about what you eat and drink. The better tourist resorts do make an effort to have good hygiene, but nothing is ever certain. Note also that the coral reefs around Hurghada lie several miles offshore, so if you plan to dive or snorkel you will need to take a boat trip to reach them.Getting there
Hurghada International Airport (HRG) sits about 8 km west of the resort strip and roughly 10 km from Sigala, and it handles frequent direct international flights from Europe, Russia, Turkey, the Gulf states and the Far East. Many arrivals are on package tours, but operators also sell flight-only tickets, and ultra low-cost carriers such as Wizz Air serve routes from Rome and Budapest. Domestic flights link the city frequently to Cairo and daily to Alexandria and Sharm el-Sheikh; Egyptair is the main domestic operator, with Nile Air and Al Masria competing on the Cairo route. Flying is worth considering because the desert behind Hurghada makes road transport to other cities lengthy, hot, dusty, bumpy and not entirely safe. Terminal use can vary by airline and flight, so check with your airline or tour operator before travel. After landing you normally pass through visa formalities, passport control and baggage claim before the arrivals hall, which is functional but can get crowded when several charter flights coincide. Visa-on-arrival may be available for eligible nationalities, so check current entry rules before departure and keep cash ready if you buy a visa mark at the airport. Free Wi-Fi is available for a short period, after which you may need to pay or use mobile data; SIM cards are often sold in arrivals, require a passport for registration and should be tested before you leave the counter.
There is no local bus or microbus from the airport terminal. Package tourists usually have their own bus waiting, while independent travellers typically use an Uber or Careem where available, a taxi, a pre-arranged transfer, or walk out of the airport — the highway is about 1.3 km or 15 minutes away and barely shaded, and there you can flag a microbus and ask if it heads your way. Airport taxis and private transfers are the most common options; agree the total fare before getting in and make clear whether the price is for the car rather than per person, since fares are high for the short run into town and drivers pay to enter and wait at the airport. For resorts outside Hurghada such as El Gouna, Sahl Hasheesh, Makadi Bay, Soma Bay, Safaga or Marsa Alam, a pre-arranged transfer is more convenient, especially for late arrivals, families or travellers with luggage. To return to the airport you can use Uber or Careem where available, a taxi or a pre-arranged transfer; microbus users can go to the Total gas station near the airport, and at the police checkpoint you may need to show your passport and flight reservation. The departure hall is upstairs. By bus, operators use separate stations: Go Bus, about 1 km north of High Jet, sells return tickets as mobile e-tickets and welcomes foreign tourists on unrestricted routes; Super Jet runs golden buses with red stripes; and High Jet covers Cairo in 6–7 hours with frequent departures, though the buses are not very comfortable and run loud soap operas throughout, making a night bus a poor idea. Long-distance servees taxis run from the bus station on El Hegaz Street, reachable by bus 4 or 7 or a local taxi, and suit the trip to Luxor especially well; with two or three of you a private long-distance taxi can also be negotiated, and unlike a servees the driver will pause at antiquities and photo stops. Ferries between Hurghada and Sharm el-Sheikh were suspended in 2010 with no resumption in sight, but a fast-cat ferry runs from Safaga, 50 km south, to Diba in Saudi Arabia — a route carrying many pilgrims and trucks, for which you must sort your Saudi visa well in advance.
Getting around
Hurghada is a long, thin resort city that stretches along the Red Sea shore rather than inland, so most journeys run up or down the coast instead of across a dense grid. There is no metro, tram or rail network to learn. The cheapest local option is the white micro bus, a swarm of Toyota Hiace minibuses running fixed routes mostly along the coastal strip, picking up and dropping off anywhere along the way. Ask around for your destination before getting in; if the bus in front of you is not going your way, the next one probably is. Expect them to be cramped and crowded, and young women may have to ward off unwanted attention. Slightly larger minibuses and small regular buses also run frequently along the coastal highway to El Gouna and Safaga. Walking works well within Sakala, the oldest part of town around its natural harbour, and along Sheraton Road in the city centre, but the city's spread-out layout and the heat make it impractical for getting between districts.
Uber and Careem both operate in Hurghada and are convenient for short trips within the city, avoiding much of the haggling that ordinary taxis require. Prices are shown in the app, but availability, waiting time and the final pickup point vary by area, time of day and demand, and app fares have risen compared with older guidebook prices. Some drivers may ask for cash or try to negotiate a different fare, so confirm the destination and payment method before starting. E-hailing can be less predictable at the airport, bus station and some hotel or resort gates, where pickup points may be blocked or restricted; if the app says service is unavailable at your exact location, walk a short distance from taxi touts and try again from a nearby main street or hotel entrance. Ordinary taxis are widely available but require negotiation: find out if the driver speaks English, show your destination on a map, and agree the total price for the car, not per person, before getting in. Only a few streets have names, so destinations are usually specified by a nearby hotel, marina or resort. Have the correct amount ready and pay at the destination. For longer journeys to resort areas such as El Gouna, Sahl Hasheesh, Makadi Bay, Soma Bay, Safaga or Marsa Alam, app availability may be limited and drivers reluctant to accept the displayed fare, so agree the full price in advance or use a pre-arranged transfer. From the airport there is no direct public bus; independent travellers use an app ride, a taxi or a pre-arranged transfer, or walk roughly fifteen minutes to the highway to flag a micro bus. If you return by micro bus, go to the Total gas station near the airport.
Where to stay
Where you stay in Hurghada largely depends on how independent you want to be. Large tour operators such as Tui run their own resorts or block-book with newer local groups like Jaz, often on an all-inclusive basis. These may not appeal to the independent traveller, but they can still work as a base for exploring the area, and plenty of internet sites let you check reviews and book them.
- Private self-catering accommodation, usually European-owned holiday homes, offers more independence than a resort hotel and is potentially much cheaper.
- Budget hotels catering to Egyptians can be found near the Upper Egypt bus station.
- Golden Rose Hotel, Qesm Hurghada, includes access to a beach a short walk away, with free chairs and towels; be aware there is a dog that barks and fights with other dogs and passers-by, even at night.
- Snafer Hotel, in the northern part of the city, is good value but without free beach access; Sea Sand Resort around the corner offers beach access for a day. The northern area is quiet, with little happening due to low occupancy at the local resorts.
- Mid-range options include Sunrise Holidays Resort on Corniche Road, which is adults only, along with Sunrise Crystal Bay Resort, Sea Star Beau Rivage and Giftun Azur Beach Resort.
- For a splurge, the Marriott Beach Resort sits on the resort strip on El Corniche Road, with a small beach, good water-sports facilities and Aquarius Diving based there. Further south, the Oberoi Sahl Hasheesh in Sahl Hasheesh is an opulent Moorish-style hotel.
Food & drink
Hurghada's eating scene is broad rather than distinctive, spanning fast food, western restaurants and oriental cooking. International chains sit alongside the local fast food chain GAD, and you'll find Syrian restaurants along Sheraton Road and more around the Marina, plus Indian, Thai, seafood and Lebanese options. Budget choices cluster in two areas: around the marina, where Sheraton Road and its surroundings hold a Chinese restaurant, a seafood place in an unfussy setting, a Syrian bakery, a Greek taverna and several small local spots; and near the Arabia Azur Resort, where a fish restaurant serves a variety of fish in welcoming surroundings and a small street-side restaurant offers local dishes including BBQ, with staff who speak hardly any English. In North Hurghada, an oriental place does Arabic food, grill, shawarma and falafel, including inexpensive falafel sandwiches. Mid-range options include a hot stone steak restaurant on the Kornesh road in old Sheraton, and venues at the Marina and Arabia Azur. For drinks, karkaday — a hibiscus infusion served hot or cold — and chi, the local tea usually served in a glass, are offered everywhere, and both usually come alongside a sheesha pipe. Sheesha is used for smoking flavoured molasses tobacco, with the smoke passing through water before you inhale through a long tube; it's legal, whatever it may resemble. Alcohol is easy to find in bars and hotels, since Hurghada has a very western atmosphere and drinking is simpler here than in other parts of Egypt. Non-alcoholic options include canned soft drinks and fruit juice, plus traditional Egyptian drinks such as yansoon (aniseed tea), ganzabeel (ginger tea), irfa (cinnamon tea) and sahlab, a hot, drinkable pudding thickened with orchid-root starch and typically flavoured with cinnamon. Lemonade comes cold or hot, sometimes made with mint. The city has a cosmopolitan nightlife scene, with many bars in the Marina and nightclubs and discos across town; almost every hotel has its own disco, and you can ask at your hotel or tour guide for recommendations. A Czech pub sits at the end of Sheraton Road, and a cafe offers non-alcoholic drinks and hookah in a welcoming local atmosphere with street-side and indoor seating.What to see and do
The main draw in Hurghada is the Red Sea itself, and the diving and snorkelling are why most people come. You can see coral reefs and hundreds of varieties of tropical fish just a short distance from the beach, or head out further by boat; hotels often have dive escorts on site or can arrange a guided expedition, and the local dive masters are generally good with beginners. You don't need to know how to swim to scuba dive, though the water can be cold in late March, when a wet suit may be necessary. Boat trips range from half-day pirate cruises for youngsters to adult-only day cruises, including crossings to the uninhabited island of Giftun, where you can laze on white sand or snorkel among the coral gardens. A glass-bottom boat is another way to take in the reefs and underwater scenery without getting wet. Away from the water, you can quad-bike deep into the Sahara for tea with a Bedouin tribe, then ride a camel across the plains to see remote ancient wonders, or explore the desert by motorbike or beach buggy. Windsurfing, parasailing and jetskiing are all on offer, and the Red Sea coast has superb conditions for kitesurfing, with kite-spots, schools and stations along the shore. If your accommodation doesn't have its own beach, note that no beaches in Hurghada are free; options include El Sakia Beach near the marina, Orange Beach further south, and El Sawaky Beach in the north, which has plenty of space and few tourists. In the evening, the promenade area is good for traditional cafes, shopping and dining, with a bowling and family entertainment centre, malls and restaurants close by, and clubs near the promenade. Nightlife usually begins quite late. Day or two-day trips to Luxor and Cairo are also available, taking in the Nile at Luxor and the Great Pyramids and Sphinx at Giza.When to go
Hurghada has a very dry climate, so you can count on reliably rain-free weather whenever you visit. Summers bring intense heat that lingers into the night, so plan your activities for the early morning or evening rather than the middle of the day.
Winters are a different story: days are generally warm, but nights turn cool, so pack a jacket for after sunset. When the Shamal wind blows down from the northeast, it can feel downright cold, so bring warm layers if you're travelling in winter.
Three days in Hurghada
Day one: Base yourself in Hurghada and get your bearings along the Red Sea. The city is the capital of the Red Sea Governorate, and its waterfront is the reason most travellers come. If you have flown in, you will likely have landed at Hurghada International Airport (HRG), which receives flights from Europe, Russia, Turkey, the Gulf and the Far East, with carriers such as Wizz Air connecting Rome and Budapest. Domestic services from Cairo, Alexandria and Sharm el Sheikh are operated by Egyptair, Nile Air and Al Masria. After clearing the terminal, pick up a visa if you need one, then sort out a local SIM card so you have data; free Wi-Fi is not something to rely on. Spend the rest of the day settling in and taking an easy first look at the sea.
- Arrive at Hurghada International Airport (HRG)
- Arrange your visa and a local SIM card
- Take an easy first walk along the Red Sea waterfront
Day two: Give the water your full attention. The Red Sea is the main draw here, and a day on or under it is the classic way to spend your time in Hurghada. If you would rather stay dry, the shoreline itself is worth a slow morning. Note that summer conditions can be hot, and the Shamal wind can pick up, so plan around the heat rather than fighting it. In the evening, eat seafood by the water and keep the pace gentle.
- Spend the day on or in the Red Sea
- Keep the hot summer conditions and the Shamal wind in mind
- Eat seafood by the waterfront in the evening
Day three: Head inland to the Nile Valley. Luxor is the obvious target, and it makes a long but rewarding day trip from Hurghada. Because the distances are considerable, an organised tour or a guided transfer is the simplest option. If you would rather not travel that far, spend the day exploring more of Hurghada itself before your departure. Either way, leave time to get back to Hurghada International Airport for your flight home.
- Take a day trip to Luxor in the Nile Valley
- Or stay in Hurghada and explore the city further
- Allow time to return to Hurghada International Airport