Ibarra
Introduction
Ibarra sits in northern Ecuador, where it serves as the capital of Imbabura Province. The city lies at the foot of the Imbabura Volcano and spreads along the left bank of the Tahuando river, roughly 114 kilometres northeast of Quito.
Before you go
Ibarra rewards travellers who want colonial architecture and clean, picturesque plazas without the tourist crowds of the better-known market towns. Its centre retains much of its historic character, and it works well as a base for visiting Otavalo's markets while staying a short bus ride away.
The city's history is long and colourful: Inca rebellion against the Spanish conquistadors, the Battle of Yahuarcocha nearby, and a founding in the early 17th century. Simon Bolivar led the attack in the Battle of Ibarra during the War of Independence, and a devastating 19th-century earthquake levelled most of the town, which was rebuilt — hence its claim to be Ecuador's "youngest city". Knowing this backdrop will deepen what you see in the streets and plazas.
Getting there
Ibarra sits about two and a half hours north of Quito along the Panamerican highway, and roughly thirty minutes by bus from Otavalo. Buses from Quito take around two and a half hours, as do services to Tulcán. The city has a modern bus terminal, the Terminal Terrestre de Ibarra, though be aware that some buses passing through town do not stop there, so confirm your drop-off point before you travel.Getting around
Ibarra's compact centre is made for walking, and most of the sights you'll want to see sit within easy walking distance of one another. Exploring on foot is also the best way to get a feel for the city and to pause at markets, cafés and plazas as you go. For anything beyond walking distance, taxis are the most practical option and are cheap enough to use freely for short trips, arrivals with luggage, or travel after dark.
There is no metro, tram or urban rail network, so ground transport in and around the city is by road. Buses serve regional travel and connections to nearby towns, with the Terminal Terrestre de Ibarra acting as the main hub for longer-distance services — though some buses passing through town don't stop there, so confirm where your bus actually departs from or arrives before you travel. Buses are the standard way to reach Ibarra from elsewhere in the region: from Quito the ride takes about 2.5 hours along the Panamerican highway, and from Otavalo it's roughly 30 minutes. Ibarra has no major international airport, so most visitors arrive overland, typically flying into Quito and continuing by road. Carry small change for taxis and buses, and plan on walking for most of your time in the centre.
Where to stay
In the city centre, you can stay at Hotel Plaza Victoria on Bolívar, a comfortable option with rooms that include a private bathroom and TV. If you would rather be outside town, Finca Sommerwind sits along the Autopista Yahuarcocha at kilometre 8, with good facilities and hot showers.Food & drink
For a quick, filling meal, head to Chifa Ibarra on Av Rafael Sánchez, where you can load up on fried and other chifa-style dishes. If you're after coffee and a sit-down breakfast, Olor Cafe sits right on the main square at the corner of Juan Jose Flores and Simón Bolívar, and is known for its coffee as well as a hearty "CNN breakfast".
For something sweet, seek out Heladeria Rosalia Suarez, a place that has been going for more than a century. It's worth a visit just to watch the workers making the ice cream by hand.
What to see and do
Ibarra's signature excursion is the Tren de la Libertad, a two-hour train ride from Ibarra to Salinas and back, run on a bus converted to travel the railway line. The route crosses seven tunnels and tall bridges over steep canyons, and in Salinas you'll find colourful murals commemorating the history and culture of Afro-Ecuadorian people. The train runs Thursday to Sunday and on holidays, and passengers must arrive 30 minutes before departure; advance booking is recommended. Bring a light jacket, walking shoes, a hat, sunscreen, sunglasses, a camera, cash and insect repellent. A guarded parking area is available at Ibarra Station, and there are paid parking lots near the railway station in Otavalo.
Closer to town, Lago Yahuarcocha is a beautiful lake just 3 km from Ibarra where you can take boat trips, go fishing or try paragliding; hotels and restaurants around it specialise in fish dishes, and a racetrack hosts local car and bike racing. In the Valle del Chota, an area populated by African-Ecuadorian descendants, you can visit typical villages and go fishing, rafting or kayaking. The town of Otavalo, famous for its market, is 30 minutes away by bus, with buses leaving every 10 minutes. Downtown, relax at one of the two town squares, Parque Pedro Moncayo or Parque La Merced, both fronting historic buildings and churches, and see pre-Columbian archaeological items, colonial art and historical exhibits at the Central Bank Museum, about two blocks south of Parque Pedro Moncayo on Antonio Jose de Sucre. For more active pursuits, Fly Ecuador on Oviedo, three blocks west of the tourist office, offers paragliding and rafting.
Three days in Ibarra
Day one: Start in Ibarra itself, the capital of Imbabura Province, and get your bearings around the central streets near Juan Jose Flores and Simón Bolívar. Stop at Olor Cafe for coffee, then try the local heladería tradition at Heladeria Rosalia Suarez. In the afternoon, take a bus or taxi out to Yahuarcocha, the lake tied to the Battle of Yahuarcocha and the War of Independence, with the Imbabura Volcano as a backdrop. For dinner, Chifa Ibarra on Av Rafael Sánchez is a straightforward option.
- Olor Cafe
- Heladeria Rosalia Suarez
- Yahuarcocha
- Imbabura Volcano
- Chifa Ibarra
Day two: Head to Otavalo for its market, one of the best-known in the region, and spend the morning among the stalls. Back in Ibarra, visit the Hotel Plaza Victoria area and the historic centre associated with Simon Bolivar and the independence era. If you want a quieter stop, Finca Sommerwind on the Autopista Yahuarcocha is a place to eat and relax. Buses from the Terminal Terrestre connect Ibarra with Otavalo and other towns.
- Otavalo
- Hotel Plaza Victoria
- Simon Bolivar
- Finca Sommerwind
- Autopista Yahuarcocha
- Terminal Terrestre
Day three: Use the Panamerican and the Terminal Terrestre for a longer run, either north toward Tulcán or south toward Quito. If you stay local, walk the centre again and take in the Inca and Spanish layers of the city's history, then return to Yahuarcocha for a last look at the lake. Carry layers, as the weather can shift between warm sun and cool, damp spells. Buses are the main way to get around, and the Terminal Terrestre is where most routes begin.
- Panamerican
- Terminal Terrestre
- Tulcán
- Quito
- Inca
- Spanish
- Yahuarcocha