Riobamba
Introduction
Riobamba is the capital of Chimborazo Province in central Ecuador, set in the Chambo River Valley of the Andes at an elevation of 2,754 m. It lies roughly 200 km south of Quito, Ecuador's capital.
Getting there
Riobamba is served by buses from most major destinations in Ecuador. You can reach the city from Latacunga in about two and a half hours, from Quito in around three hours, from Guayaquil in roughly four hours, and from Baños in about an hour and a half.
Regular scheduled passenger trains no longer run to Riobamba. Tren Ecuador does operate excursion trains from Quito and Guayaquil, including the Tren del Hielo I from Quito to Riobamba. The Naríz del Diablo train no longer departs from Riobamba. If you arrive by rail, the Estación Riobamba is centrally located on Av Daniel León Borja.
Getting around
Riobamba is compact and its main sights cluster together, so most of your day-to-day movement happens on foot. The main tourist area is very walkable, with the cathedral and the city's museums within easy walking distance of one another and a number of well-preserved churches to wander between in the historic core. Sidewalks are abundant and there are pedestrian-friendly zones, though watch your step where the pavement is uneven. The altitude is a real factor if you are not yet acclimated, so build in time to adjust. Pick up a map at the tourist information center at the corner of Av. Daniel León Borja and Brasil, and consider basing yourself in the historic center.
- Bus: An extensive city bus network covers longer stretches of the city, with a single ride costing as little as 30 cents. Carry small change.
- Taxi: Taxis are plentiful and metered, available both within the city and for trips beyond it. Expect to pay the minimum fare on short hops, especially at night.
- Rail: There is no metro or tram system and no regular scheduled passenger trains. Excursion rail does exist: Tren Ecuador runs tourist trains from Quito and Guayaquil, including the Tren del Hielo I from Quito to Riobamba. The Naríz del Diablo train no longer runs from Riobamba, so confirm current arrangements before planning around it. Estación Riobamba is centrally located on Av. Daniel León Borja, and riding on the roof is prohibited, so expect to ride inside.
- Cycling: Dedicated bike lanes are not widespread, but cycling is considered practical for the city and its surroundings, with rentals and tours available through RIOCYCLING. Be prepared for hilly terrain, cobblestone streets and traffic that can be busy at times.
- Arriving overland: Long-distance buses connect Riobamba to most major destinations in Ecuador, including Latacunga, Quito, Guayaquil and Baños, making the bus terminal your link to the rest of the country. No airport transfer guidance applies here, so plan your onward leg as a bus or train connection from one of those cities.
Where to stay
Most of Riobamba's accommodation clusters around the railway station on Avenida Daniel León Borja and the streets running off it, which is convenient if you're catching an early train. Hotel Tren Dorado, half a block from the station, is a modern option with a range of rooms, cable TV, reliable hot water, comfortable beds and Wi-Fi; its on-site restaurant serves early breakfasts for train passengers. Across the street, Hotel Boutique San Pedro de Riobamba occupies a renovated 19th-century house and centres on a pleasant courtyard with a restaurant. Hotel Metro, next to the station on Avenida León Borja at Lavalle, keeps things basic, with tiny private bathrooms and showers that can take a long time to warm up; ask for a room away from the front if you're sensitive to noise, particularly at weekends.
Elsewhere, Hotel Gran Imperial on Rocafuerte at the corner of 10 de Agosto is among the cheapest decent places in town, with most rooms sharing bathrooms and featuring balconies and large windows. Near the bus terminal, Hotel Glamour is a large establishment with a restaurant, lobby, conference hall, internet, free breakfast, cable TV, a bilingual front desk and hot water, though it can feel somewhat rundown and loud. Hotel el Zeus, on 10 de Agosto past the bus terminal, sometimes hosts celebrities and athletes. For good value, Hotel Velanez Suite on Juan Lavalle offers clean, comfortable rooms with kitsch decoration, kind and helpful staff, and huge, good breakfasts.
Food & drink
Riobamba does not lack for restaurants, and whatever your tastes, Calle 10 de Agosto and Calle Daniel León Borja — the city's main avenue — are where you'll find most of your dining options, from lunch through dinner. Cake is available at the Cafetería Londres on García Moreno, between 10 de Agosto and Primera Constituyente. For pizza, try D'Baggio on Miguel A. León y 10 de Agosto, a pizza joint that aims for the feel of a quaint Italian eatery and pulls it off endearingly: the pizzas are made completely by hand in an area at the front of the restaurant, so as you wait you can watch the chef flipping dough in the air and working pizzas in and out of the wood oven. Everything is made with fresh ingredients, and the menu also includes a selection of pastas and salads. San Valentin Club, a bar and diner at León Borja and Vargas Torres, serves a nice burrito and lasagna along with something to wet your whistle. Pollo Ejecutivo, on Calle Daniel León Borja across from Parque Guayaquil, is the best of the town's many fried chicken places — greasy, crispy and delicious.
Hornado, roasted pork, is a specialty of Riobamba, and many good restaurants specialize in it, usually offering several portion sizes with some standard sides, though hygiene standards may vary. If you're about to catch a bus at the terminal, there's a food court (patio de comida) a short walk west of the entrance, with dozens of options at very decent prices; there appear to be no vegetarian options on the menus, but it can easily be arranged. For drinking, "La Avenida" is the teens' favourite spot to relax and de-stress from the week's work, with parties starting around sundown and running from El Parque Infantil all the way to La Estación del Tren. If you're around for Las Fiestas del Abril, or Riobamba's independence day week, there are plenty of activities and parades all that week. Drinking and partying in Rio, as the natives call Riobamba, isn't hard to do: there's the bar El Tentadero and, for the younger generation, Las Pipas, both across Plaza de Toros on 10 de Agosto.
What to see and do
On a clear day, head for Parque 21 de Abril, close to the train station, for the best views of the surrounding mountains. The Museo de la Ciudad is free and holds an eclectic mix of art styles and content, from paintings and sculpture to photography and furniture. Next to Parque 21 de Abril you'll find Iglesia San Antonio; like many of Riobamba's churches it seems to open only for services rather than tourism, but its glass doors let you see inside even when you can't enter. La Catedral, along one side of Parque Maldonado, works the same way, though a side chapel to the left of the main door seems to open more often. Across from Parque Sucre, Teatro Leon is worth a look for its notable architecture. For activity, Riobamba is the nearest city to Chimborazo, Ecuador's highest mountain, so use it as a base to climb or hike the peak. The city is also close to Sangay National Park, which contains several mountains and volcanoes, including Tungurahua, Sangay and El Altar. Riobamba once served as the terminus for Ecuador's most famous train route, the Nariz del Diablo, which now runs instead from Alausi, a two-hour bus trip away, to Sibambe. Closer in, stroll the markets: Riobamba has seven daily markets, three of them (San Alfonso, San Francisco and La Merced) in the main tourist area, all authentic local markets selling some mix of vegetables, fruit, meat and dairy, plus a weekly Saturday market in Plaza Roja. Explore the parks too, at least six scattered through town (Parque 21 de Abril, Parque Guayaquil, Parque Sucre, Parque Maldonado, Parque La Libertad and Parque La Madre) — some have sculptures, others are notable for the architecture around them, and most if not all offer free WiFi through the RiobambaDigital network. The official tourism website may suggest more, including a two- to three-day Inca trail trek.Festivals & events
Riobamba's festival calendar is anchored by Las Fiestas del Abril, held each April.
Three days in Riobamba
Day one: Arrive in Riobamba, the capital of Chimborazo Province, set in the Andes in the Chambo River Valley. Use the city as your base for exploring the surrounding highlands. From Quito, Latacunga or Guayaquil, you can reach Riobamba by regular bus or by rail on Tren Ecuador. If you arrive by train, you pull into Estación Riobamba. Once settled, walk Av Daniel León Borja, where the sidewalks are busy and you can pick up supplies. For a closer look at the city, join a cycling excursion with RIOCYCLING.
Day two: Take a rail excursion into the Andes. Tren Ecuador runs through this high country, and the route is a way to see the mountains without arranging your own transport. Expect cold, thin air at altitude, so carry layers. Back in Riobamba, spend the evening on Av Daniel León Borja or around Brasil, where you can find food and drink. If you want to see more of the region, Baños and Latacunga are within reach.
Day three: Head out for a closer view of the mountains. The Naríz del Diablo and the Hielo are among the sights tied to this rail country. An excursion can take you toward them, or you can arrange a taxi for the day. Taxis are a practical way to get around when you are short on time. Pick up last supplies on Av Daniel León Borja before you leave Riobamba for Quito, Guayaquil or onward through Chimborazo Province.