Odense travel guide

Odense, Denmark

By the Travel Wiki editorial team

Odense

Introduction

Odense is the largest city on the island of Funen and one of Denmark's major urban centres. It sits within Odense Municipality, and the wider metropolitan area takes in the municipalities of the Province of Funen.

Before you go

Odense sits roughly in the centre of Funen, between the larger Zealand island and the Jutland peninsula, and it's the birthplace of the fairytale writer Hans Christian Andersen — statues, parades and monuments in his memory are part of the city's fabric. If you want to see where he was born, his childhood home was a tiny house on Munkemøllestræde, close to the cathedral. The city's history runs deep: the first recorded reference to it dates to 988 AD, archaeological finds point to a settlement from the Viking period, and it later grew into a trading centre before becoming a port city and then a modern industrial one. Odense is generally a safe town for visitors, though criminal activity and violence occasionally occur, so take care late at night. The Vollsmose area is infamous in Denmark for crime, social problems and a recent terrorism case, but there's no real reason for tourists to venture there, and the problems are highly exaggerated by the media — you'll find it no more unsafe than most places.

Getting there

Odense's own airport handles only periodic charter flights for package holiday operators, so using it as a point of entry generally means buying a package holiday that starts and ends in Odense; otherwise it is practical only for private aviation. The country's two major airports are a better bet and are not far away. From Copenhagen Airport, take the train directly to Odense via Copenhagen, or drive along road E20 across the Great Belt Bridge, noting the road toll on the bridge. From Billund Airport, take the local bus to either Kolding or Vejle and then a train from there to Odense; trains depart roughly every 30 minutes during the day and every two hours after, with a total trip of roughly 90 minutes.

DSB operates trains in and out of Odense, with direct services to many cities and towns throughout Denmark. Trains run frequently and generally on time, and you must have a valid ticket before boarding, as tickets cannot be bought onboard. Buy tickets directly from DSB; if you plan ahead, the Orange and Orange Fri tickets are available online only and can be a good deal. Seating is generally very comfortable and there are drink vending machines onboard, but for longer journeys buy food and beverages before you get on; 1st class on InterCity and InterCityLyn trains includes free water, coffee, tea and snacks. On peak travel days, during rush hour, or when travelling in groups, reserving seats on InterCity and InterCityLyn trains is advisable but not mandatory.

By car, Odense sits in the centre of the island of Funen, and the E20 between Zealand and Jutland runs through the southern suburbs. Driving from Germany, this highway branches off the E45 right after the Kolding Ø exit. There is a toll for crossing the Great Belt Bridge from Zealand to Funen. Odense has a low emission zone. By bus, the cream-coloured FynBus services reach Odense from locations all over Funen, from Fredericia in Jutland, and from Nykøbing on Falster; regional buses arrive at and leave from the Odense Railway Center, and you can tell city buses from regional ones by the line number, with two-digit numbers for city buses and three-digit numbers for regional and inter-city routes. A map and schedule of bus lines is on the Fynbus website, partially available in English and German.

By yacht, a 7-km canal from Odense Fjord to the old harbour makes the city accessible to yachts, and there are several marinas, though it is recommended that you make sure they have visitor berths before you arrive. You can also dock at marinas in Svendborg, Faaborg, Middelfart or Kerteminde, from which you should then take a train or bus to Odense.

Getting around

Central Odense is compact and best explored on foot: the main attractions, bars, restaurants and shopping areas sit close together, and the major sights in the centre are only a short stroll from one another. Most hotels and hostels are in the city centre or around the railway station. Two popular sights lie further out along the river and are sign-posted the whole way: the zoo, and beyond it The Funen Village (Den Fynske Landsby).

Odense is known for its good bicycle infrastructure, with bicycle lanes along most major roads and many commuter paths separated from the road system; if you haven't brought your own bike, Donkey Republic rents them out through an app. FynBus operates frequent local buses, and almost all city buses pass through the Odense Railway Center, making it a useful hub. The inner-city bus route number 10 is free of charge and loops around the city centre, useful as a quick sightseeing tour. For a more relaxed option, the Odense Åfart river boat runs from the bridge in Munke Mose Park (Nyvestergade) to the zoo and the forest next to The Funen Village, taking around half an hour, with live jazz occasionally played on board in summer; row-boats and paddle-boats can be rented at the same spot. Taxis are relatively abundant but pricey compared with buses, and you cannot hail one on the street — ask in a bar or restaurant, use the company's app or website, or ring them directly. Regional trains also serve the area, including a stop at Fruens Bøge near The Funen Village and one at Holmstrup on the Middelfart line.

Where to stay

Odense has a good spread of places to sleep, from hostels and bed-and-breakfasts to small hotels and larger establishments. For budget stays, Danhostel Odense City sits right next to the central railroad station, while Odense Danhostel Kragsbjerggaard is Denmark's only manor-house hostel, set in a quiet residential area a couple of kilometres from the centre. Bed-and-breakfast options include rooms on Engvej and at Faaborgvej/Lettebækvej, the latter described as nice and clean and close to town but in the countryside. Villa A Hotel is a small fifteen-room hotel with a cosy courtyard, views to the park, a car charging station and free parking, and Hotel Fyrtøjet sits on the main pedestrian street within walking distance of the train station, with on-site parking.

Mid-range choices cluster conveniently near the station: Hotel Windsor on Vindegade, First Grand Hotel just to the right as you leave the train station, and Hotel Domir on Hans Tausens Gade, a five-minute walk away, with small but light, well-furnished rooms. At the upper end, Hotel Ansgar is a short distance from Central Station with reasonably spacious rooms in a traditional style, City Hotel is on Hans Mules Gade, and Comwell H.C. Andersen Hotel is on Claus Bergs Gade. Knudsens Gaard, in a residential area at a major crossroads out of town, is excellent if you are arriving by car and has a good restaurant, though it is a twenty- to thirty-minute walk to the city centre. Gl. Avernæs lies a little away from Odense, close to nature in a quiet and relaxing area.

Food & drink

For budget eating, head to Vestergade near the Town Hall, where you'll find take-away burgers, pizza and hot dogs at Emils Hot House, budget Chinese food at Happy Chicken, and Cafe du Nord. For something mid-range, Cuckoo's Nest on Vestergade is a stylish but relaxed cafe-bar with a courtyard restaurant at the back, serving nachos, burgers, salads, fish and tapas platters. Out in the Fruens Bøge forest, Restaurant Carlslund occupies an old farmhouse reachable by train, bus or the Odense Aafart tour boats, and serves traditional Danish main courses and Smørrebrød; it's especially known for its all-you-can-eat Danish omelette with fried bacon, pork rinds, tomato and chives, served with dark rye bread and mustard. Near the train station, Restaurant Hans Christian showcases French and Danish specialities, while Café Chino sits in Brandts Passage.

At the splurge end, Den Gamle Kro is a French-inspired restaurant serving traditional Danish food in a historic half-timbered building, and Sortebro Kro is an 18th-century inn near Den Fynske Landsby serving Danish cuisine. For drinks, Odense's bars vary greatly in their opening hours, some closing around midnight and others staying open much later. The Australian Bar in Brandts Passage is popular with students and exchange students thanks to its low prices, and Boogies on Nørregade draws a young crowd, with an open-air court and its own bar in summer. Ryan's of Odense on Fisketorvet is an authentic traditional Irish pub with Irish drinks, Irish barmen and live music several nights a week. For a cosy Danish atmosphere and a wide range of Danish and foreign beers, try Carlsens Kvarter near Munke Mose or Christian Firtal on Vintapperstræde. Odense Casino on Claus Bergs Gade offers roulette, black jack, poker and slot machines. The local Albani brewery, founded in 1859, produces Odense Pilsner and Odense Classic.

What to see and do

Odense's cultural life clusters around Brandts Klædefabrik, the city's art and cultural centre, which holds the Danish Museum of Media and a museum of photographic arts alongside four large halls for changing exhibitions, plus specialist shops, a music library, a specialist cinema and bars. Literature fans head for the Hans Christian Andersen Museum, which honours the fairy tale writer born and raised in the city, and for Hans Christian Andersen's House, the little yellow corner house where he was supposedly born and which has become the city's most photographed building. Nearby, behind Saint Knuds Kirke, Hans Christian Andersen's Garden offers large flower arrangements, a river, a pergola, a "Chinese Wall", a statue of the writer and a sculpture of a paper boat from one of his tales - a good spot for a picnic. St. Canute's Cathedral itself is a Gothic building dedicated to King Canute the Holy, who became a martyr nearby; his tomb and his brother's lie in the crypt among the burial stones of dignitaries. The Danish Railway Museum displays old trains, carriages and memorabilia across a large site, with a model train landscape, a ride-on miniature railway and a playground, and on public holidays and during the school summer vacation it runs steam train trips to destinations on Funen. Odense Zoo spreads across both banks of the Odense River, its Oceanium taking you through South America with an aviary and indoor rain forest. Galleri Galschiot, the sculptor Jens Galschiot's studio and museum, combines a bronze foundry, gallery shop, art schools, wicker workshop, TV studios, sculpture park and art gallery. On Nonnebakken, the "Nun Hill", you can see one of the Viking Age ring fort remains listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

For active days, Odense Golfklub lies at Hestehaven, and Odense Go-Kart-Hal offers indoor karting. Odense Aafart runs tour boats from the recreational area Munke Mose in the city centre along the Odense River, with stops at Odense Zoo and in Fruens Bøge near the Funen Village. The Odense Symphony Orchestra performs in the city, and football fans can watch Odense Boldklub, who play in the top tier at Nature Energy Park, about 2 km west of the city centre.

When to go

Odense has a temperate oceanic climate, so the seasons shape your visit more by rain and ice than by extremes of heat or cold. Summer is the warmest stretch of the year, with daily means in the mid-teens Celsius in July and August, but it is also the wettest period: those two months bring the most rain, so pack for frequent showers alongside the mild temperatures.

If you come in the cold season, January and February are the coldest months, with daily means near freezing and lows a few degrees below. The fjord commonly holds ice during these months, and icebreakers keep the entrance clear, so the waterfront takes on a distinctly wintry look.

Three days in Odense

Day one: Arrive in Odense, the main city of Funen, and get your bearings. If you are coming from Copenhagen Airport, the train crosses the Great Belt Bridge; from Billund Airport, the route passes through Kolding and Vejle. DSB trains run to Odense, and you can buy an Orange or Orange Fri ticket for a lower fare, with seating reservations available on InterCity and InterCityLyn services. On arrival, leave your bags and walk the streets of the old centre, following the traces of Hans Christian Andersen, including Munkemøllestræde, where he spent part of his childhood.

Day two: Go deeper into the city's history. Odense has roots going back to Viking times and was known in the AD era, and the Odense Railway Center is worth a look if you want to understand how the city connects to the rest of Denmark. By driving, you can also reach Odense from Germany, and FynBus services cover local routes. The Vollsmose district shows a different side of Odense Municipality, while the wider province of Funen surrounds the city with countryside.

Day three: Use Odense as a base for the region. Trains link it to Zealand and Jutland, with Fredericia, Nykøbing Falster and the route through Kolding and Vejle all reachable. If you prefer to stay in the city, spend the day on foot among the streets associated with Hans Christian Andersen and the everyday life of Odense. From Copenhagen, the journey back over the Great Belt Bridge is straightforward by DSB train.

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