Vedado

Introduction

Vedado is the more modern face of Havana, a central business district and urban neighbourhood developed in the first half of the 20th century during the Republic period. It sits east of the Alemendares River and the Miramar and Playa district, and west of Calzada de Infanta and Central Havana, giving you a stretch of the city that feels distinctly different from the older quarters to the east. The area commonly called Vedado takes in the wards of Vedado, Rampa, Vedado-Malecón and Carmelo, all within the municipality of Plaza de la Revolución.

Your orientation in Vedado runs along two axes. Calle 23, known as "La Rampa", cuts east to west through the district, while the northern edge is defined by the Malecón, the waterfront seawall that is a famous and popular place for social gatherings in the city. The district has been described as the city's most affluent section, and its character reflects that standing.

Getting around

Vedado is one of the easier parts of Havana to explore on foot. The district was laid out on a regular grid of wide streets, and its main artery, Calle 23 (La Rampa), runs straight from the eastern edge of the district to the Malecón, the waterfront promenade where people gather. Within the district you can comfortably walk between the University of Havana, the waterfront hotels, Coppelia, John Lennon Park and the Colon Cemetery area, though you should plan around the heat and the condition of some pavements. For anything beyond Vedado — Old Havana to the east, Miramar to the west — you will want wheels.

Havana's buses are the main form of daily commuting for residents, but they are crowded and run without fixed schedules, and urban service across much of the city has been drastically reduced, with routes suspended and stops left empty. Treat buses as a bonus rather than a backbone: if one appears it is cheap and useful, and if not, fall back on taxis and shared cars. Metered panataxis are available at hotels, the airport and around the city. Private collective taxis run set routes but fares have risen sharply and are inflated by fuel shortages. Cocotaxis — yellow, egg-shaped three-wheelers seating at most two — are government-owned, paid in convertible currency and run short specific routes, and are commonly found near the National Hotel and the Cohiba Hotel. Bicitaxis cover short runs, mainly in Old Havana, with the price set by the driver, while electric three-wheelers seat up to six and are only slightly cheaper than cars but slow over potholes. There is no metro or tram network today, and trains are not a practical way to move around the city. Expect to pay in cash and to negotiate, and budget for taxis with flexible plans, since private transport is now nearly the only dependable option for crossing the city. From the airport, metered taxis and pre-arranged transfers are the most straightforward way in; car rental agencies are usually associated with hotels, and many visitors arrange a driver through their casa particular or hotel.

Three days in Vedado

Day one: Start your stay in Vedado, the district at the heart of Havana that grew up with the Republic, and get your bearings along Calle La Rampa, the bustling artery of the neighbourhood. Browse the area around the University and pause at Coppelia, the city's landmark ice-cream parlour, before finding shade in John Lennon Park. In the evening, follow the Malecón as it curves along the coast, watching the city settle into its evening rhythm.

• La Rampa for the neighbourhood's everyday bustle
• Coppelia and John Lennon Park for a relaxed afternoon
• The Malecón for a sunset walk

Day two: Give the morning to Colon Cemetery, one of Vedado's most striking sights, then continue to the Plaza de la Revolución to take in the scale of the square. For getting around, metered taxis, private cars and cocotaxis are all part of the street scene, and bicitaxis offer a slower way to cover short distances. Later, head west across the Alemendares River into Miramar and Playa, where the character shifts to embassies, wide avenues and a calmer pace.

• Colon Cemetery and the Plaza de la Revolución
• Cocotaxis and bicitaxis for short hops
• Miramar and Playa across the Alemendares River

Day three: Cross into Central Havana to explore the streets around Calzada and Infanta, where the city feels denser and more lived-in, then continue to Old Havana for its plazas and colonial architecture. Back in Vedado, the area around the National Hotel and the Cohiba Hotel gives you a final look at the district's seafront face. Expect warm and humid weather, so plan your walking for the cooler parts of the day and keep the afternoon flexible.

• Calzada and Infanta in Central Havana
• Old Havana for colonial streets
• The National Hotel and Cohiba Hotel area to close the day