Neiva travel guide

Neiva, Colombia

By the Travel Wiki editorial team

Neiva

Introduction

Neiva is the capital of the Department of Huila in south central Colombia, set in the valley of the Magdalena River. It is the most populated city in the department and one of the most important cities in southern Colombia, a standing that comes mainly from its strategic geographical location.

Before you go

Before you travel to Neiva, research the current security situation. The city was hit by a number of bomb attacks in 2010 and 2011, and it lay within the zone of influence of guerrilla movements such as FARC-EP. As of June 2014, the city was no longer subject to such violence, but conditions can change, so check the latest information before you commit to your trip.

Getting there

Neiva is reached by air or by road. Benito Salas Airport (NVA) has daily connections to Bogotá with LATAM and Avianca, making a flight the quickest option if you are coming from the capital.

Getting around

Neiva is a road-and-foot city: there is no rail, metro or tram network, so rule those out entirely when planning your movements. Public transport is road-based, with buses and collective transport serving the streets of this departmental capital. Buses are the cheapest way to cover longer stretches, but they are less convenient than taxis if you don't know the routes or you're in a hurry — pay in cash on board, and ask your accommodation to point you to the right route before setting out. Taxis are the most straightforward option for getting somewhere specific without learning bus routes, and they're the natural choice for airport runs, the downtown area, and the riverside parks and gardens along the Magdalena. Ride-hailing apps work here too; confirm the pickup point with your driver, and agree on the fare or check the app price before you set off. Taxis are especially useful in the evening, when walking long distances is less appealing.

Walking is a genuinely practical way to see central Neiva, and the riverside is particularly rewarding on foot, with a sanctuary along the Magdalena surrounded by parks and gardens usually busy with locals and visitors. The downtown streets are also where the Festival Folclórico y Reinado Nacional del Bambuco brings daily parades. Central Neiva and the Magdalena riverside are the best areas to explore on foot, but wear light clothing and carry water — the climate is hot year-round, so plan heavier walking for the morning or late afternoon rather than the middle of the day. Benito Salas Airport sits inside the city itself, which makes your transfer into town short and simple; a taxi or ride-hailing car is the easiest way to reach your accommodation. The airport handles domestic destinations with daily connections to Bogotá, so book onward flights with that in mind. Arriving overland is also possible, with Bogotá roughly a five-hour drive away and bus connections from Villavieja and San Agustín.

Where to stay

Neiva's accommodation is concentrated in the centre, within easy reach of the main plaza and park. Backpackers & Travelers Hostal Neiva, on Carrera 1C in the Desierto de la Tatacoa area, is a cheap but genuinely pleasant option with clean rooms, breakfast of eggs and fruit, and guided tours to the Tatacoa Desert; it is LGBTQ friendly. Hotel Chicalá sits on Calle 6, a block south of Plaza Cívica Las Libertadores, and has a colonial look with dark wood interiors, an inviting pool, wifi, and a restaurant and bar, and it accepts pets.

Hotel Neiva Plaza, on Calle 7, offers nice views over Santander Park along with a big pool, gym, spa, restaurant and bar, breakfast, wifi and air conditioning. All three are well placed for exploring the city on foot.

Food & drink

Neiva is known for its tamales and for asado huilense, a regional beef preparation. The city is also associated with a range of breads, or biscochos, of which the biscocho de achira is the most preferred.

For a drink, head to El Patio, a cultural centre with a refreshing atmosphere where you can have a drink or a meal while listening to live music. It also hosts temporary exhibitions worth a look.

What to see and do

Start your wandering in the city centre at Santander Central Park, a plaza where you can people-watch and relax among office buildings and historic churches. Nearby, the Immaculate Conception Cathedral is the city landmark, while the Iglesia Colonial offers an older, colonial-style church. A couple of blocks east of Santander Plaza stands the Edificio Nacional, an architecturally striking building with an arabesque look. In Plaza Civica Las Libertadores you'll find the Monumento Quinto Centenario, which recounts the history of Neiva, and the abstract Gaitana Chief Monument, where horses and people seem suspended in the air and little iguanas may be running around. For museum time, the Museo Arqueológico Regional, adjacent to the Jose Estacio Rivera Convention Center, holds ethnological exhibits, pre-Columbian megaliths and juipas. Along the steamy Magdalena jungle river, the Malecon del Rio Magdalena is a riverwalk with coffee kiosks and an observation deck, the tower of Mohan, topped by a rather spooky humanoid face; you may also be able to take a boat ride, but take care for your safety and disregard the trash. The Jardín Botánico de Neiva 'Bertha Hernández de Ospina' Park is a peaceful, swampy marshland setting with lagoons and boardwalks where you can photograph and observe birds, lily pads and insects, though you should guard against getting eaten alive and be mindful of your security. Further out, about 20 km south of Neiva, Playa Juncal and Parque Juncal combine a water park with a zoo and amusement park, including pools, ziplines, a ropes course, a climbing wall and dino statues everywhere. A few kilometres north on Hwy 45, Huila Afrika Salvaje is a very odd park with African and Christian themes, not least a gigantic crucifixion statue lying upright on the ground, plus animals, paintball, horseback riding, ATVs and a lagoon with peddle boats. If you simply want to throw money away, there's Sur Andino Casino. The town also hosts the San Pedro folklore festival each year around late June and early July.

When to go

Neiva has a hot tropical savannah climate, so you can count on consistently warm daytime temperatures throughout the year. The dry summer season is the driest stretch, with hot days, plenty of sun and little rain.

Three days in Neiva

Day one: Arrive at Benito Salas Airport (NVA) from Bogotá with LATAM or Avianca, or come overland by bus from Bogotá, from San Agustín or from Villavieja. Settle into Central Neiva, where hostels such as Travelers Hostal Neiva and Backpackers cater to travelers, and use taxis or walking to get your bearings along the Magdalena River. In June, the city hosts the Festival Folclórico and the Reinado Nacional del Bambuco, so expect bambuco music and dance in the streets.

Day two: Head out to the Tatacoa Desert, reached from Neiva via Villavieja, for a day among the dry canyons and night skies. Return to the city in the evening for a meal in Central Neiva, where the Magdalena and the department's Huila cooking set the tone.

Day three: Use Neiva as a base for the wider Department of Huila. Buses run from Neiva to San Agustín, and onward connections from Villavieja and San Agustín make it easy to continue your route through Colombia. If your timing allows, spend the morning on the Magdalena River side of town before departing from Benito Salas Airport or by bus.

About this place