Wuhai

Introduction

Wuhai is a prefecture-level city and regional centre in the Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region of China, and by area it is the smallest such division in the region. It sits on the Yellow River, between the Gobi and Ordos deserts, so expect a setting defined by river, sand and dry open country rather than forest or coastline.

The city as you find it today took shape in 1976, when Wuda on the left, or west, bank was amalgamated with Haibowan on the right, or east, bank to form a single city occupying both sides of the river. One curiosity worth knowing before you arrive: Wuhai is among the very few cities whose antipode falls not only on land but on another inhabited city, almost exactly on Valdivia in Chile.

Before you go

Wuhai sits on the Yellow River between the Gobi and Ordos deserts, in the river's upper reaches. It borders Ordos to the northeast across the Gander Mountains, faces Shizuishan across the river to the south, and touches Alxa League to the west. Keep this geography in mind when planning: the surrounding terrain is desert and mountain, and the city itself is compact.

Summers here are hot and dry, so pack for heat and sun. Most of the year's precipitation falls in winter, when temperatures are mild by Mongolian standards but still often well below freezing. Plan your clothing around those two extremes rather than expecting much rain in the warmer months.

Getting there

Getting around

Wuhai was formed by merging two towns on opposite banks of the Yellow River, Wuda on the west bank and Haibowan on the east, so distances between districts can be long and walking is only practical within a central area, not across town. Local buses are the main way to get around, with fares paid on board. Bus Route 1 starts at Wuhai Railway Station and runs past Rongxing Hotel, China Unicom, Xinhua Pharmacy and Wuhai Hotel before ending at Yitongchang Residential Station. Bus Route 6 begins at Red Star Macalline and passes No. 1 Middle School, the National Energy Coal Coking Company and Wuhai Hotel on its way to the Civic Center. Bus Route 3 links the District Central Hospital with Wuhaixi Railway Station, stopping at Ordos Bank, Binyuan Hotel, Wuhai 12 Middle School and Lanxiang Driving School on Jiefang Road; the trip can take one to two hours. Bus Route 2 has been temporarily adjusted because of road construction at the intersection of Huangguan Road and Huatai Community in Wuda District, so it now starts at Jinlong Building and no longer stops at Huatai Community — check locally before relying on it.

• Wuhai Railway Station sits on Station Road in Haibowan District, and Wuhaixi Railway Station is the terminus of Bus Route 3, so confirm which station your train uses. There is no metro or tram system; rail here means conventional trains.
• Wuhai Bus Station, 100 meters west of the Wuda District Power Supply Bureau, with a second location south of Wuhai Railway Station Square, is the coach hub for longer trips, with services to Ejin Banner, Alxa Left Banner, Linhe, Shanba, Dongsheng, Dalate Banner, Baotou, Hohhot, Beijing, Yinchuan, Lanzhou and Xi'an.
• From Wuhai Airport in Haibowan District, the airport bus runs from the train station toward the airport, stopping at Yixin International Hotel, Wan Luen Commercial Building, Lan Meng Hotel, Ershuichang Crossing, Talent Hotel and Grand Sky Hotel before terminating at the airport. Bus Route 9 also connects the train station with the airport directly, taking about an hour and ten minutes.

Buy train tickets through the official 12306 website or at the station. Routes can change with little notice because of road works, so confirm your route locally before depending on it, and ask at your hotel about taxis for short hops or when bus routes don't line up with your plans.

Where to stay

Most of Wuhai's accommodation sits in Haibowan District, the city's central and most convenient base. There you'll find the Wuhai Blue Dream Hotel on Renmin Road and the Shijiyuan Hotel on Haibei Street, both well placed for getting around the downtown area.

• Wuhai Blue Dream Hotel (Haibowan District) — on Renmin Road
• Shijiyuan Hotel (Haibowan District) — on Haibei Street
• Vienna International Hotel (Wuhai East Railway Station) — on Xinhua West Street, handy if you're arriving or departing by train
• Wuhai Xingtai Famous Capital Hotel — on Riverside School Road

If you want to be near the railway station for an early departure, the Vienna International Hotel's East Railway Station branch is the obvious choice. Otherwise, base yourself in Haibowan and pick between the Blue Dream and Shijiyuan for a straightforward stay.

Food & drink

Wuhai's food scene leans toward the cuisines of the surrounding grasslands, with Mongolian-style hot pot as the main draw. In the Haibowan District you'll find Mongolian Hot Pot with Sudo, an authentic Inner Mongolian hot pot spot with a pleasant setting and free parking. For something lighter, head to Chulu Pasture on Park South Road in the Heibei Bay Area, where the freshly brewed yogurt is described as sitting between Mongolian and flavoured yogurts — mellow like the former, silky like the latter.

To drink, Haibowan District has you covered at both ends of the day. Yue Yu Coffee sits on Renmin Road by the Xihu Gas Station, while Tuoya Milktea House, on the north side of the east gate of Taoran Shangpin, serves authentic Mongolian milk tea along with snacks and breakfast.

What to see and do

Start with the city's history and natural setting. Wuhai Museum, on the second floor of the science and technology museum on Binhe Avenue in Haibowan District, covers the area's geological changes, historical progress and folk culture across more than 300 exhibits, and is free to enter. Outdoors, Longyou Bay National Wetland Park sits on the Yellow River and serves as a transit station on the migratory bird routes between East Asia and Australia and between Qinghai Lake and the Sanjiang wetlands. Wuhai Lake lies west of Xuefu Road in Wuda District, framed by a water conservancy dam, the Ulanbu and desert, the upper Yellow River and a riverside landscape belt. North of Haibowan District, Jinsha Bay is an ecotourism zone known for protected plants such as Sihe wood, half-day flower, Mongolian tonsils, Sabah king and holly, with a central statue of Genghis Khan, sand sculptures, campfires and Mongolian-style food and lodging. Further afield, Dream Canyon West in the Yinshan remnant veins of Alashan Left Banner is open around the clock and free, its purple-red sandstone carved by wind and water into strange shapes that glow at sunset. The Wuhai Yellow River Road Bridge carries the G6 expressway across the river, linking the city's two banks and three districts, and the Wuhai solar updraft power plant stands in the desert at Jinshawan.

For everyday recreation, head to Wuhai People's Park at the north end of Park Road in Haibowan District, open at all hours and free, with thousands of trees and a large stretch of protected forest. Wuhai Botanical Garden on Hella Road is likewise free and open around the clock, and draws locals for exercise. Events cluster around the warmer months: the Inner Mongolia Folk Song Conference near Wuhai Lake presents folk song traditions from across Inner Mongolia through several themed performances; Qixi themed activities in People's Park include a traditional market, a magpie bridge meeting, wedding customs and poetry singing; and the Love in Wuhai urban good life festival at Yueyu Book Bar East Square runs for nearly three months with food tasting, a cultural and creative market and open-air music. In late August the Wuhai International Wine and Food Festival on Xuefu Street brings wine tastings, calligraphy and painting auctions, a photography competition and a star concert, while the Wuhai Desert Wine Culture Tourism Festival in September adds a rock music festival, wine competitions and a sand off-road race.

When to go

Wuhai's climate divides sharply between a hot, dry summer and a cold winter. If you visit in summer, plan around strong sun and heat rather than rain, since little precipitation falls in this season.

Winter is mild by Mongolian standards, but temperatures are still frequently well below freezing. This is also when most of the year's precipitation arrives, so expect cold and wet conditions to be the norm.

Three days in Wuhai

Day one: Base yourself in Haibowan District, the city's central and most convenient quarter, and use it as your starting point for getting your bearings. Wuhai sits in the Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region of China, on the Yellow River, with the Gobi pressing in around it. Begin with the river itself, then let the desert edge set the tone for the rest of your stay. Summers here are warm, so pace yourself and carry water.

Day two: Head out to Wuda, the district that gives Wuhai its industrial character, and take in the wider landscape where the city meets the Gobi. The Gander Mountains rise nearby, and the surrounding region includes Ordos, Alxa League and Shizuishan, so you can shape a day of desert and mountain scenery without straying far. Keep an eye on the heat and plan around the middle of the day.

Day three: If you are flying out, Wuhai Airport (WUA) on Airport Road in Haibowan District is your departure point, and Wuhai Airport Station serves the same area. Several carriers connect the city with Beijing, Hohhot, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Taiyuan, Xi, Baotou, Yinchuan, Yulin and Tianjin, so you can build a route onward through the region. Mongolian culture is part of daily life here, and a final morning in Haibowan is an easy way to close the trip before you leave.