Kaili
Introduction
Kaili is a county-level city and the seat of Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture in southeastern Guizhou province. It is known as a centre of Miao culture, and more than 120 festivals are held here each year. The surrounding area is a major rice-producing region.
Before you go
Kaili is the capital of Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture, in eastern Guizhou Province. The city sits on the banks of the Qingshui River, in the foothills of the Miaoling Mountains where the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau gives way to the central hills. Its terrain rises in the southwest and falls away to the northeast.
The climate is central subtropical — temperate and humid, with a typical monsoon pattern. Expect warm, humid summers and cool winters, and pack for rain, since the monsoon brings moisture through the year. The city is divided into 9 streets and 11 towns, so plan which part of Kaili you need before you arrive.
Getting there
Kaili sits on a railway line linking Kunming and Changsha, so you can arrive by train from either of those cities, or from Guiyang, the provincial capital a few hours to the west. Buses also run from Guiyang. From neighbouring Guangxi, you can approach from Guilin by heading north and west by bus via Sanjiang and Congjiang.
- From Guiyang airport, walk to the right of the airport exit until you reach the mini-van station; vans leave when full, so expect possible waits.
- From Sanjiang South, take the high-speed train to Duyun; public buses wait outside Duyun high-speed station to carry you to the next bus terminal, where frequent buses run to Kaili, ending at the train station.
Getting around
Kaili has a public bus system, and it is the main way to get around the city on a budget. The one thing to plan for is language: all the signs are in Chinese, so it helps to have your destination written down in Chinese characters to show the driver or a fellow passenger. Bus number 1 is the useful one for arrivals, connecting the train station with the bus terminal in the city centre — if you are staying near the centre, that single route links the two places you are most likely to need.
- Have your destinations written in Chinese characters before you set out, since bus signs are in Chinese only.
- Use bus number 1 to link the train station and the central bus terminal.
- If you arrive via Duyun, expect a two-step transfer: a station bus to the bus terminal, then a frequent bus on to Kaili, ending at Kaili's train station.
- Allow extra time for the Guiyang airport mini-van, which waits until it is full before departing.
- Confirm current taxi and ride-hailing options locally, as the source material does not cover them.
Walking is a reasonable option for short hops within the city centre, but treat it as a supplement to the bus network rather than your primary way of covering ground.
Where to stay
Kaili's accommodation is concentrated around its transport links, with the area near Kaili South Railway Station offering the most convenient base for arrivals and departures. Staying here puts you within a short drive of the station, which is useful if you are continuing onward by rail or arriving late in the day.
- Hampton by Hilton Kaili — a modern hotel on Kaikai Avenue, roughly a 15-minute drive from Kaili South Railway Station, with free breakfast, Wi-Fi and parking, plus a fitness centre and business centre.
Food & drink
Kaili is known for its sour soups, a hallmark of the region's cooking. Try sour fish soup or sour beef soup, both built around a tangy, fermented base. Wild pork is another local specialty worth seeking out.What to see and do
Kaili itself is a rough, industrial city, but it works well as a base for the surrounding Miao and Dong villages. Within the urban area you can visit the Qiandongnan Prefecture Ethnological Museum on Guangchang Road, which introduces the ethnic groups of the prefecture and is free, or escape to Luohanshan Forest Park on Huancheng East Road, the largest park in the city, with a zoo and a Buddhist temple. Apple Mountain Park, a forested hill on Beijing East Road, offers another quiet walk. The real draw, though, is outside town. Traditional markets are held in nearby villages half an hour to two hours away by local bus, where women in traditional dress trade indigo for dyeing cloth, chickens for worship, handwoven textiles and silk floss for embroidery. In early August the rain-worship ritual takes place south of Kaili, with Dong music, singing and dancing under drum towers, indigo-dyed pleated skirts and festival jackets trimmed with silver ornaments; summer also brings bullfights and the Eating-new-rice festival across the south of the prefecture. Travel agencies or hotels can arrange trips to touristic villages such as Nanhua, Lang De, Xijiang and Zhaoxing, or you can reach them more cheaply by local bus if you speak some Chinese. Leishan, a quiet Miao town an hour south by bus, makes a good overnight stop and a contrast to Kaili's industrial sprawl; from there you can continue to Lang De Miao village, whose upper reaches are peaceful despite the tourist trade. Also within reach are Xijiang, the largest Miao village, Datang with its storehouses on pillars in water basins, Chong An Jiang with its waterfront and a ferry across the river, and Zheng Man Dong Miao village, known for its batik work. Near Geyi, about three kilometres away, lie two old towns you can reach by bus and then taxi or on foot. In Kaili itself, do not miss the Sunday market and its many small side streets.Three days in Kaili
Day one: Base yourself in Kaili, the gateway to the Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture in Guizhou Province. The city sits among the Miaoling Mountains on the Guizhou Plateau, with the Qingshui River running through the region. Use the day to get your bearings on foot and confirm onward transport, since buses connect Kaili with Guiyang, Duyun, Sanjiang, Congjiang and Guilin in neighbouring Guangxi. If you arrive by rail, Kaili South Railway Station is the main point of arrival, and the Hampton by Hilton Kaili on Kaikai Avenue makes a convenient base with Wi-Fi for planning the days ahead.
Day two: Head out into the surrounding Miao and Dong villages of the prefecture, where the region's minority cultures are the main draw. Allow a full day for the round trip and confirm bus times before you set off, as services are limited. Expect mountain scenery throughout, with the Qingshui River and the Miaoling Mountains shaping the routes between settlements.
Day three: Use your final day for a slower look at Kaili itself before moving on. Buses run from Kaili toward Guiyang, Duyun and Sanjiang, and from Sanjiang South you can continue toward Guilin, while longer connections reach Kunming and Changsha. Confirm your departure point and allow extra time, as journeys through the Guizhou Plateau take longer than the distance suggests.