Doilungdeqen

Introduction

Doilungdêqên District lies in Lhasa, north-west of the central Chengguan area in the Tibet Autonomous Region. Much of the district is agricultural or pastoral land, but it also takes in the western suburbs of Lhasa, so you can move between open country and the edge of the city within a single outing. The Duilong River runs southeast through the district on its way to the Lhasa River, giving the landscape its defining line.

The district's draw is its monasteries and its deep past. Tsurphu Monastery dates from 1189, and Nechung monastery from the 17th century; a prehistoric site in the area is thought to be roughly 3600 to 3000 years old. Plan your time around these places and the rural stretches between them rather than around urban sights.

Getting around

Doilungdêqên works as the western approach to Lhasa rather than a separate destination, so getting around here largely means using Lhasa's transport. If you arrive by train you are already in the district: Lhasa Railway Station, the terminus of the Qinghai–Tibet Railway, sits in Liuwu township on the southern bank of the Lhasa River, with services to Beijing, Shanghai, Guangdong, Chengdu, Chongqing, Xining and Lanzhou. The station stands above 3,600 metres and has a clinic with oxygen treatment facilities. The district's other stations, including Lhasa South and Lhasa West, are freight stops you need not plan around. Lhasa's city buses are the mainstay of local public transport, with departures on most routes roughly every half hour; Route No. 24 is useful for visitors, passing Drepung Monastery, the Potala Palace and Sera Monastery. Minibuses also run in Lhasa, notably near Beijing Road, though they start late in the morning and stop early in the evening because of the temperature. Keep small change handy, as fares are paid in cash.

For longer journeys, coaches are the most popular and convenient way out of Lhasa to the rest of Tibet. Two coach stations serve this side of the city: Lhasa Liuwu Coach Station near the railway station, which handles very long-distance routes such as Chamdo, Shangri-La and Markham and runs an international coach to Kathmandu with guides speaking Chinese, Tibetan, English and Nepali; and West Suburb Coach Station at the Minzu Road/Jinzhu Middle Road intersection, with coaches to Chengdu, Shigatse, Lhoka, Golmud, Xining and Lanzhou plus international service to Kathmandu. Taxis are a straightforward way to reach the railway and coach stations from central Lhasa, and pedicabs carry two to three people, though they are not permitted on Beijing Road in front of Potala Square. Walking is realistic in central Lhasa and around the Barkhor, but the district as a whole is large and largely rural, so do not expect to cover its monasteries and villages on foot; give yourself time to acclimatise before long walks. Bicycles can be rented along Barkhor Street, which suits the flatter parts of the Lhasa valley. For day trips to Tsurphu or Nechung Monastery, arrange a taxi or join a tour rather than relying on scheduled public transport, which is limited outside the city.

Three days in Doilungdeqen

Day one: Base yourself in Doilungdêqên District, on the western edge of Lhasa in the Tibet Autonomous Region, and use it as a springboard for the city's great monasteries. Minibuses and buses run into Lhasa from Doilungdêqên, so you can reach Drepung Monastery, Sera Monastery and the Potala Palace without much trouble. If you arrive by train, Lhasa Railway Station sits nearby, the terminus for the Qinghai–Tibet Railway with services from Xining, Lanzhou, Chengdu, Chongqing, Beijing, Shanghai and Guangdong. Take it easy on your first day: the altitude rewards a slow pace, and the weather can turn from warm sunshine to a sharp chill once the sun drops.

Day two: Head north of the district to Tsurphu Monastery, the seat of the Karmapa and one of the most important monasteries in Tibet. The road climbs away from the Duilong River valley into quiet country, and the air grows thinner and colder as you go. Back in the district, follow the Duilong River as it runs down to meet the Lhasa River, and take in the everyday life of the valley rather than rushing between sights. Plan your transport in advance, as services are limited and the journey takes longer than the distance suggests.

Day three: Give the day to Lhasa itself. Wander the Barkhor area of Chengguan and the lanes around Beijing Road, where you can pick up supplies and watch the city go about its business. If you are continuing east, Lhasa Liuwu Coach Station and Lhasa South and Lhasa West stations are the places to sort onward transport, with routes toward Chamdo and connections beyond. Keep some slack in your schedule: minibuses fill up, mountain weather shifts quickly, and the most memorable hours are often the unplanned ones.