Shaoshan

Introduction

Shaoshan is a county-level city in Hunan province, under the administration of Xiangtan. Its seat is Qingxi Town, the natural starting point for getting your bearings in the area.

Before you go

Shaoshan is a small farming town with a history stretching back to the early Qing Dynasty, when it was known by other names such as Qidu, Xi township and Qingtian. It is best known as the birthplace of Mao Zedong, who was born there on December 26, 1893 to a wealthy farming family. He left in his early years but returned as leader for a week in 1966 to hold a conference in the purpose-built facility at Water Dripping Cave.

Since Mao's death, Shaoshan has become a destination of pilgrimage for those wanting to visit the roots of the defining figure of 20th century Chinese history, and in turn those of the Communist Party. Go expecting a town shaped by that role rather than a conventional sightseeing stop.

Getting there

Shaoshan sits about an hour's drive from Changsha, the provincial capital, and the highway network radiates out in every direction: eastward to Xiangtan City, northward to Changsha and Zhangjiajie. Buses run frequently between Shaoshan and Xiangtan, and there are also departures to Changsha throughout the day. From Changsha Southern Station you can catch air-conditioned buses direct to Shaoshan.

High-speed trains from Changsha South are the quickest option, covering the trip in roughly 25 minutes and running hourly through the day. Shaoshan South Railway Station is a short drive from the Visitor's Center, which makes a day trip from Changsha straightforward. In the station car park you'll find buses waiting to take you onward, including large tourist buses and local services; the local bus to the Visitor's Center is free, but if you have limited Chinese the tourist bus is the easier choice—listen for the call of "Mao Ze Dong." At the Visitor's Center, turn left to the ticket area, where staff can supply a map and tickets.

Getting around

Shaoshan is compact, and the main sites are clustered closely enough that getting between them is simple even with limited Chinese. From Shaoshan South Railway Station, buses wait in the parking lot, including large tourist buses and local buses. The local bus to the Visitor's Center is free, but if you don't speak Chinese the tourist bus is the easier option—listen for someone calling out "Mao Zedong." It serves day trippers who haven't arranged a group tour, and you're welcome to join the Chinese-language tour if you like; either way, a few yuan gets you to the Visitor's Center.

At the Visitor's Center, turn left to the ticket area, where you'll almost certainly find someone who speaks English and can give you a map and sell you tickets. Free buses link the Visitor's Center, the Mao Memorial Park, and Mao Square; when you want to leave, simply point at your ticket, which carries a photo of the Visitor's Center. Buses back to the train station run regularly, and taxis wait at the Visitor's Center for people heading to the station. At the museums, find a ticket booth—tickets are free, but staff will want to see your passport. The crowds can be a little intimidating, but the whole circuit is entirely doable on your own, and with basic Chinese skills it is positively easy.

Where to stay

Staff there are unlikely to understand much English, so plan to handle communication in Chinese or with help.

Because this is a less-travelled part of China, the practical approach is to book a local or independent guide who can arrange your booking and check-in for you. That saves you from sorting out reservations and registration on arrival with limited language support.

Food & drink

Restaurants around the main tourist area serve dishes associated with Chairman Mao's favourites, notably spicy pork and smelly tofu. Bear in mind that the whole area caters largely to domestic tourists, so picture menus are rare and English ones rarer still. Chinese restaurants here are also set up for groups, who order several dishes and eat communally; if you are travelling as one or two, your best bet is to seek out a noodle shop, which may mean walking a little way from the main area.

Hunan cuisine is famously hot, so if you would rather not have a dish that is red in colour from all the chilli, make that clear before you order.

What to see and do

Shaoshan is inseparable from Mao Zedong, and most of what you'll see centres on his early life. Start at his birthplace and childhood home, where period furniture and English-language information help you make sense of the rooms; time your visit well and the crowds stay manageable. Nearby, the Chairman Mao Museum documents his formative years and the early years of the Chinese People's Revolution in detail, though its treatment of the Great Leap Forward and the Cultural Revolution is noticeably vague. Mao Memorial Park is worth a wander if you read Chinese, and a pleasant green space even if you don't.

Continue to Water Dripping Cave, a purpose-built conference centre where Mao stayed for a week in 1966, now an entertaining museum displaying memorabilia from his visit, including the ping-pong table he used. Finish at Mao Zedong Square, dominated by a 25-foot bronze statue of Mao. For something to take away, browse the many small souvenir shops selling Mao and other Communist Party-themed goods.

Three days in Shaoshan

Day one: Arrive at Shaoshan South Railway Station, where buses connect you to the Visitor Center, and settle into lodging such as Hualong Manor Hotel. Spend the afternoon around Mao Square and Mao Memorial Park, getting your bearings in this town in Hunan tied so closely to Mao Zedong.

Day two: Go to Water Dripping Cave, a site associated with Mao Zedong, and take in the surrounding scenery. Later, explore Qingxi Town, whose character reflects the Qing Dynasty heritage of the area, and return to Shaoshan for the evening.

Day three: Use the transport links from Shaoshan South Railway Station to continue onward, whether toward Changsha, Xiangtan City, or further afield such as Zhangjiajie. Buses from Changsha Southern Station and high-speed services via Changsha South make the region easy to connect.