Wuyishan
Introduction
Wuyishan is a county-level city within the Nanping municipal region, set in the northwest of Fujian where the province meets Jiangxi to the northwest. The city corresponds to the former Chong'an County, so you may still encounter the older name in local references.
Before you go
Wuyishan is a UNESCO World Heritage Site recognised for both its natural environment and its culture, and it is also famous for tea. Its attractions include mountains much like those at Guilin, temples and other historic buildings, and raft rides down a sensational river canyon. The landscape is ancient volcanic terrain that millions of years of erosion has transformed into a maze of gorges, precipices and caves — unearthly, in the source's own words. Historically it was a famous retreat for court officials, poets and scholars.
Before you go, plan around the wildlife. The area has lots of snakes, including many preserved in restaurants or pharmacies in town — snakes pickled in wine are a traditional Chinese medicine. You may notice that bird song is less common than in other places in China, mainly due to snakes. Going off the beaten path in forest areas without a guide is not recommended, and you should not hike outside the paths because of the snakes, some rather large, and the cliffs. Otherwise the area is very safe: people are very friendly, touts are merely annoying, park staff are helpful, and emergency staff are available in case of accidents.
Getting there
High-speed trains serve Wuyishan North Railway Station, with connections to Beijing, Shanghai, Xiamen, Guiyang and other cities. From that station, two bus routes run to the resort area (bus 9 is one of them), and another route serves central Wuyishan City. Many trains instead stop at Nanpingshi Station in Nanping. Wuyishan Station handles low-speed trains, including overnight services from Xiamen and trips of several hours from Fuzhou; a train from Beijing takes fifteen hours, leaving in the afternoon and reaching Wuyi Mountain early the next morning, while Shanghai to Wuyi Mountain takes nine hours. Check a ticket website for schedules and costs. Buses meet arriving trains at Wuyishan Station and run to the resort area; otherwise, walk about seven minutes to the main road and pick up a No. 6 bus.
During peak travel periods, direct trains to Wuyishan can be hard to come by. In that case, consider a train to Nanpingshi (Nanping City) Railway Station, which has more frequent services than Wuyishan's stations; from there, take a tram or a bus to Wuyishan, with the tram terminus across the road from the entrance to the scenic area. Wuyishan Airport has regular flights to major Chinese cities, including a daily flight from Beijing of a little over two hours. The airport sits close to the resort area, and a No. 6 bus runs just outside the parking lot until late evening — for the resort, board on the opposite side. The airport express bus is of little use, and its operator may push you toward a taxi instead; unless you are uncomfortable taking a bus to your hotel, avoid the taxis, which ask ¥30–40 for a ten-minute ride.
Getting around
Wuyishan splits into three zones, and knowing which one you're heading for shapes every transport decision: the Park Area (South and North) in the west, the Resort area in the east — a small town of tea shops and visitor amenities rather than the actual city — and the City to the north of the Resort. Public buses are the workhorse of local transport and the most practical way to move between the Resort, the City, the airport and the train stations. Bus No. 6 is the key route: it runs to the bridge leading into the central section of the Park Area, stops many times through the Resort, then continues past the airport and the train station (the stop is about a 7-minute walk from the station) and beyond. Fares depend on distance, and alternative buses travel the same route and will pick you up for the same fare provided you tell the driver or assistant where you are going. Other numbered routes such as No. 5 exist but run very rarely and shouldn't be relied on.
Within the Park Area, entrance tickets to the main attractions include bus transportation for that area. You can buy tickets and switch onto the shuttle network at the North Gate, the busier South Gate, or conceivably the West Gate at the start of the rafting; the English signage splits up the costs, but the tickets must be purchased together. Public transit buses also run through parts of the park, so you may find yourself at a tourist bus stop without the required ticket — staff will direct you to the nearest park entrance to buy one and will generally let you ride the shuttle to get there. You're only sometimes asked to show tickets on the buses, but you must show them to enter the attractions. For Wuyi Palace (Wuyi Gong), take the mountain transportation and walk about 10 minutes to cross the bridge. Avoid taxis, which overcharge without the meter, and skip the motorcycle and bicycle taxis entirely: they charge per person and may try to bring you to restaurants for extra commission. If you want to cover more ground than you could on your own, the local tourist agency can provide a guide and driver for a fee, though you can also organise this yourself.
Where to stay
Most of the accommodation sits in the resort area, on the far side of the river from the mountains, with a handful of hostels clustered around the foot of the peaks. On the west bank, opposite the resort area, a small youth hostel sits right at the base of the mountains; it has a bar serving beer, coffee, juice and tea but no food, a quiet atmosphere, and bicycles for hire. Just north of the bridge that crosses into the park, another hostel offers a free tea-drinking gathering and staff who can brief you on the surrounding attractions. In the resort area itself, a simple hostel has an owner who speaks English and may pour you a cup of tea when things are quiet. If you prefer a conventional hotel, a resort property with friendly staff and an included breakfast is an option.
Book ahead if a bike race is scheduled: the event can close off parts of the park, most likely the entire north side, buses stop running at that time, and the crews fill up more hotels, which can push town prices up a little. Camping is not allowed inside the park, and you risk being kicked out if you try; snakes in the area make it a poor idea regardless.
Food & drink
Wuyishan is tea country, and the local oolong, DaHongPao, turns up everywhere — many tea shops let you taste before you buy, and a cup alongside a tea egg is the classic pairing. Tea eggs are hardboiled in tea with a small hole so the flavour seeps into the white; the ones at the Dahongpao valley rest stop are usually very good, while those at the rafting area can be disappointing. They may be hot, so handle with care. For something stronger, look for the locally made "yellow wine" (黄酒) crafted from wheat and sticky rice, with a sweet, earthy mouth feel — the 天游飘香 brand is worth a try. Local beer and wine are nothing special. Bottled Wuyi Mountain water is widely sold; do not drink from the larger rivers.
In the resort area you will find a wide range of restaurants, both local dishes and food from other parts of the country — some upmarket places are overpriced, but plenty of cheap options exist too. In the evening, food stalls line the pedestrian-only Sangu Street (三姑街) and Yuhua Street (玉华街). For non-local fast food there is a Dico's and a KFC, and supermarkets and bakeries sell bread. Zhou Mapo (周麻婆(三菇店)) on Yunufeng Road serves simple Chinese food with a fast-food feel, complimentary rice, fruit, snacks and drinks, and very cheap specialty plates of Mapo Tofu and Red Braised Meat; it gets crowded with Chinese tourists at dinner. Elsewhere, menus sometimes mix prices per dish with prices per pound, which adds up quickly for pheasant, rabbit and other rarities — always ask the price before ordering if no menu is given. In the main part of town in the evening, local food stands make nice Fujian dishes for just a few yuan, though they are a little less sanitary than you might expect.
What to see and do
The classic way to see Wuyishan is from the water: a bamboo raft down the Nine-Bend River, leaving from the West Entrance and taking around ninety minutes to an hour and a half through all nine bends. The rafts seat six, life jackets are provided, and the water is calm apart from a few minor rapids that can splash your feet, so no experience is needed. The scenery is the draw — sheer cliffs and tall mountains — and at the fourth bend you pass caves in the cliff face that were used for burials in ancient times, with old wood and stone still visible. Drivers steer with long poles and will offer a running commentary in Chinese for a small fee; book ahead, as trips often sell out at weekends. Don't miss the lookout rock between Wuyi Palace and Shuiguangshi, near the end of the rafting, which is probably the best view in the area. At the entrance, vendors will try to sell you snacks, fish feed and plastic bags to cover your shoes. Bring a hat or umbrella and sunscreen, as it can get very hot.
Rafting alone won't show you the whole area, so plan to climb as well. Tianyou Peak is a big stone peak with breathtaking views over the river and surrounding peaks; the main route gets crowded and steep towards the top, and an easier path returns at the back. A good trail follows the north bank between the West Entrance and Tianyou Peak, though it spends much of its time in forest without the raft's views. In the north, the Da Hong Pao valley — the source of Wuyi Mountain's most famous tea — is tranquil and beautiful, and walking from there to Water Curtain Cave passes through tea valleys and by Eagle Beak Rock. Water Curtain Cave is a waterfall with a small old shrine behind it, reached by a walk from its bus stop. Horse Head Rock offers tea fields, an old temple, rocks and rural buildings, and is reached by a stone stairway at the entrance to the Da Hong Pao parking lot, with a southern connection to Tianyou Peak commissioned by tea merchants in the 1700s. Tiger Roaring Rock has a fine view over the rocky surroundings, though the peak itself is closed off. Thread of Sky, where two rocks lean together leaving a narrow strip of sky, is worth seeing from below but the walk-through gets extremely narrow and is steep, dark and slippery — skip it if you dislike crowds or tight spaces. Near Wuyi Palace, the small Wuyishan Museum has sections on the hanging coffins and on local wildlife and scenery, with English and Chinese signs. Tianxin Yongle Temple, up the stairs near the Da Hong Pao bus stop, is a quiet, peaceful visit with a tea room off the main courtyard and a dining hall where you can eat with the monks.
Three days in Wuyishan
Day one: Arrive in Wuyishan, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Fujian, and use the town as your base for the days ahead. If you come by rail, Wuyishan North Railway Station connects the area with Beijing, Shanghai, Xiamen and Guiyang, while Wuyishan Station and Nanpingshi Station serve the surrounding Nanping City area, and Wuyishan Airport offers another way in. From Wuyishan City, buses run toward the Park Area; check the schedules on arrival, as services can be limited outside peak periods.
Day two: Give the whole day to Wuyi Mountain and its Park Area, the heart of the World Heritage Site. The scenery here is often compared with Guilin, with the river and its surrounding peaks forming the classic views of the region. Plan your walking and any river trips around daylight, and carry water, since the area is large and the weather warm and humid for much of the year.
Day three: Use your last day to slow down and take in the wider area around Wuyishan and Nanping, including Nanpingshi, before you leave. Historically part of Fujian and close to the Jiangxi border, the region rewards a relaxed final morning. Otherwise, keep the day flexible for your onward train or flight, allowing time to reach Wuyishan North Railway Station or the airport.