Baicheng
Introduction
Baicheng is a prefecture-level city in the northwestern corner of Jilin province, China. It sits where three regions meet: Inner Mongolia lies to the north and west, and Heilongjiang to the east and northeast. The city's administrative area is vast, covering roughly 25,000 square kilometres of China's northeast.
Before you go
Baicheng grew from a long-standing hunting ground into an agricultural and industrial city, and its character today reflects that shift. Farming was not permitted here until the early twentieth century, and agriculture and agriculture-related industry now dominate. The railways that arrived in the 1920s and 1930s turned the city into a regional transportation hub, and that role still shapes how you reach and move through the area. Industry here centres on agriculture-related production, textiles, a thermal power plant and a paper mill.
Two nature preserves lie near the city, so plan your trip around what you want to see outdoors as well as in town. Expect a continental climate with cold winters and warm summers; pack accordingly and check conditions before you travel, since the surrounding countryside and preserves are the main draw beyond the city itself.
Getting there
Baicheng has no airport of its own; the nearest one is in Changchun, so most travellers fly there first and continue overland. The train is the main way in. Services run from Beijing North and take 16–18 hours, while regional connections are shorter: Harbin is about 7 hours away, Changchun around 5 hours, Shenyang roughly 7 hours, and Dalian about 15 hours.
If you prefer the bus, services from Changchun cover the distance in 3–4 hours.
Getting around
Baicheng is a small city with occasional traffic jams, but you have several ways to get around. Buses cover most of the city conveniently, with short waits in the centre; services to villages or areas far from the centre are less convenient and involve long waits. Fares are inexpensive, and the fare covers the trip from starting point to end point. You can pay by cash on every bus, and on some buses you can also use a swipe card.
Taxis are plentiful and you can take one just about anywhere. They are painted in a colour between white and green, and the interior is commonly comfortable. Fares are cheap, and because the city is not very big you normally won't pay much. You can also cycle or walk almost anywhere, and once you know your immediate surroundings the pedestrian approach can be an enriching experience; using GPS to find your destination is another convenient option. If you plan to go shopping or amuse yourself, you may need a Chinese-speaking friend to help with registration or troubleshooting. For long-distance travel, Baicheng has historic rail links to Qiqihar, Siping, Ulanhot, Arxan and Changchun, and the nearest airport is in Changchun, from where you can reach Baicheng by train or bus.
Where to stay
Baicheng's accommodation is straightforward, with a handful of established hotels rather than a wide range of options. In the city centre you'll find Hexiang Hotel on Zhongxin Dongdalu, a convenient base if you want to be within reach of the main streets. Baicheng Hotel sits on Aiguo Road, another central choice.
- Hexiang Hotel (鹤翔宾馆), 65 Zhongxin Dongdalu
- Baicheng Hotel, 2 Aiguo Road
- Jihe Hotel, 500 Guangmingnan St, Kaifa District
If you'd rather stay away from the centre, Jihe Hotel is located in the Kaifa District, the city's development zone.
Food & drink
Baicheng's table is rooted in Dongbei cooking, and a few local specialities are worth seeking out. Suancai bairou (酸菜白肉) is the signature dish: Chinese sauerkraut and pork belly cooked together, giving a sour, savoury, salty and fresh flavour. Nian dou bao (粘豆包) is a kind of pasta and another local staple.
Pan cakes are a point of local pride, with two long-established versions. Young's Pan Cake (杨家吊炉饼), created by Yang Yutian, is tender inside with a crispy crust. Yangmazi Pan Cake (杨麻子大饼) takes its name from its founder, surnamed Yang, who was known as Yangmazi after a childhood bout of smallpox.
For drinking, Baicheng produces two notable white liquors. Taonanxiang Wine (洮南香白酒) is made mainly from red sorghum mixed with high-quality water and ingredients such as Chinese dates, goji and longan; it is clear and transparent, with a pure, elegant aroma, a mellow start and a long finish. Taoerhe Wine (洮儿河白酒) uses water from the Taoer River and is made by double-bottom fermentation, mixing steaming with slow distillation and storing the liquor by grade; it has a pleasant aroma and a comfortable taste.
What to see and do
Baicheng's biggest draw is its wetland and grassland scenery, much of it protected. At Xianghai National Nature Reserve you'll find grassland and wetland landscapes of swamps, marshes and lakes, with large numbers of cranes. Momoge National Nature Reserve, reached by train to Taonan and then a bus, takes in swamps, islands, rivers and grassland, and is home to a great variety of birds including cranes; spring and autumn are when the birdlife is at its most impressive. Jiangjiadian grassland offers open scenery with animals roaming across it, along with yurts, hunting grounds, a racecourse and a fishing area, while Daqintala grassland is a broad, handsome stretch of open land. In the northwest of the city, the Chaganhaote Tourism Development Zone takes in the Taoerhe River, Tuanjiehu, Banlashan, a wind power plant and grassland, plus a park of nationalities' traditions with Mongolian yurts on the northern side of Tuanjiehu. For gentler outings, the Forest Park is a small green space where families bring children to play, and the Canal Model Park is a well-known canal in the city that people like to walk along when spring arrives. Hua Yan Temple, in the south of the city, has grandiose buildings laid out in a classical style, and draws crowds for blessings during the Puja. History-minded visitors can head to the Chengsijiazi Castles in Deshun Township, the remains of an ancient walled city founded in the early Liao Dynasty. Further afield, Nenjiang Vacation Village sits on the right bank of the Da'an Nen River a short distance from the city centre, with beaches along the river, complete service facilities and villas in European, Roman and modern Chinese styles; it also runs one-day tours to Yueliangpao Reservoir and to Yan Fu Temple. If you're after something more active, the Venice Water Park in Taobei District is an option.When to go
Baicheng has a dry continental climate, which means the seasons shape your trip more than almost anything else. Winter runs from November to March and is very cold, windy and dry under the influence of the Siberian high. January is the coldest month, bringing deep cold and little precipitation; snow is limited by the dryness, and outdoor sightseeing is harsh. If you travel in winter, plan around the cold rather than hoping for snow.
- Spring: drought conditions are common, so expect dry, dusty weather rather than steady rain. If you plan to visit lakes or wetlands, check water levels first.
- Summer: hot and humid under the East Asian monsoon, with more than 70% of annual precipitation falling from June to August. July is the warmest month. This is the greenest and wettest time to visit, but pack for rain and mosquitoes.
- Autumn: another season when drought conditions are common. Expect dry weather and falling temperatures as the long winter approaches.
Three days in Baicheng
Day one: Arrive in Baicheng, a city in Jilin province in northeast China, and settle into your base. The city sits close to both Inner Mongolia and Heilongjiang, so it works well as a stopover in the wider Dongbei region. Check into a hotel such as the Hexiang Hotel on Zhongxin Dongdalu, the Baicheng Hotel on Aiguo Road, or the Jihe Hotel on Guangmingnan St, then take a walk to get your bearings. Buses and taxis are the main ways to get around, and taxis are metered, so you can expect a straightforward ride. For dinner, look for Dongbei cooking and suancai, the pickled cabbage that shows up in local dishes.
Day two: Use Baicheng as a launch point for the surrounding area. Farming and industry shape much of the local economy, and services are concentrated in the Kaifa District. If you want to travel further, buses connect Baicheng with Qiqihar, Siping, Ulanhot, and Arxan, while rail links reach Changchun, Harbin, Shenyang, Dalian, and Beijing North. Fares are reasonable, but schedules can be limited, so plan your day around one destination rather than trying to cover too much. Expect cold, dry winters and warm, humid summers if you are timing a visit.
Day three: Spend your last day at an easy pace before moving on. If you are heading toward Inner Mongolia, Ulanhot and Arxan make natural next stops; if you are staying in the northeast, Changchun, Harbin, Shenyang, and Dalian are all reachable by rail. Keep your GPS handy, since Chinese signage and addresses can take some getting used to, and confirm your departure point in advance. A final meal of Dongbei food and suancai rounds out the trip before you leave Baicheng.