Hangzhou

Introduction

You will find yourself in a city steeped in history as one of the Eight Ancient Capitals of China. Located at the intersection of the southern terminus of the Grand Canal and the head of Hangzhou Bay, this capital of Zhejiang province is celebrated for its rich cultural heritage.

During your stay, you can experience the local atmosphere and explore the renowned West Lake, a central feature of the city's landscape.

Before you go

Prepare for your visit by recognizing Hangzhou's deep historical roots as a former capital celebrated by poets and artists for its natural scenery, particularly West Lake. While the local dialect is Wu Chinese, most residents are bilingual and speak Mandarin. You can communicate effectively with nearly everyone in the city using Mandarin, though you should note that English is not widely spoken outside of select high-end hotels.

To navigate the city smoothly, it is helpful to have the names of your destinations written in Chinese to show to taxi drivers. Carrying a business card from your accommodation will also ensure you can return to your starting point without difficulty.

Getting there

You can reach the city by air via Hangzhou Xiaoshan International Airport, which accommodates domestic and international flights from cities including Beijing, Hong Kong, and various locations in East and Southeast Asia. For those traveling from the United States, direct connections are available from hubs such as San Francisco and Los Angeles. From the airport, you can choose between a taxi ride to the city center or a shuttle service that stops at the main railway station and the Tiyuchang Road bus ticket office. Alternatively, if you arrive via Shanghai Pudong International Airport, you can take a direct long-distance bus to Hangzhou or travel by train from Hongqiao Railway Station.

Train travel offers a convenient way to reach the city, with high-speed services connecting Hangzhou East Station to locations such as Beijing, Chengdu, and Guangzhou. If you prefer traveling by road, several bus stations serve different directions: the North station provides frequent service to Nanjing, while the West station serves routes toward Huangshan. For those visiting nearby Wuzhen, a shuttle from the eastern shore of West Lake can take you to the Jiubao bus station for your onward journey.

Getting around

You can navigate Hangzhou using an extensive metro system that provides convenient access across the city. For those preferring surface travel, a wide bus network is available with various options: "K" prefix routes offer air-conditioning during warmer months, while "Y" prefix buses are specifically designated for tourist destinations. The "B" prefix indicates the Bus Rapid Transit system, featuring articulated buses and dedicated stations. Note that most bus announcements and schedules are in Chinese, and you should expect a firm riding experience with frequent turns and sudden braking; because space is limited, avoid bringing large items like strollers.

For more personalized travel, turquoise-green taxis are widely available and use meters to calculate fares. Since many drivers do not speak English, it is helpful to have your destination written in Chinese or clearly marked on a map. You can also explore the city by water, taking a ferry down the Grand Canal or choosing from various pleasure boats and powerboats to reach the islands on West Lake. If you prefer to cycle, the city features dedicated bike lanes and several public bike-sharing systems. You can use a stored value card to unlock bikes at numerous stations across the city, including those near the core and around West Lake.

Where to stay

Depending on your travel style, you can find a variety of accommodations throughout the city. For budget-conscious travelers, several hostels offer unique experiences near West Lake. You can stay in a beautifully restored historic courtyard building with upmarket ensuite bathrooms or choose a location situated just off a lively bar street that features a quiet courtyard and pond. Other options include small rooms in the ShangCheng District with convenient access to bus routes, or various locations offering compact two-person rooms.

Mid-range and luxury options provide different levels of comfort and amenities:

• Select hotels near the lake offer views and easy walking access to nearby sights.
• Some properties in the ShangCheng District feature extensive facilities such as hydropathy treatments, business centers, or large theaters for entertainment.
• High-end accommodations provide a range of experiences, from sprawling grounds with bicycle rentals and international buffets to elegant rooms near the West Lake area with views of the city or nearby landmarks like the Leifeng Pagoda.

Food & drink

Experience the flavors of Hangzhou by sampling local specialties that emphasize pork and seafood over beef or lamb. You can enjoy dongpo rou, which consists of fatty chunks of pork in a syrupy sauce, or cùyú, fish served in a vinegar sauce. For snacks, look for small steamed buns, noodles with preserved vegetables, or Xiaoshan dried turnip. If you prefer other regional cuisines, the city offers numerous options for Sichuan, Shanxi, and Xinjiang dishes, as well as Western fare.

Explore different dining atmospheres depending on your preference:

• For a bustling atmosphere with traditional dishes, visit Zhīwèiguān or find local favorites at the street food strips of Zhōngshān nánlù.
• Seek out authentic noodles at Kuiyuan, known for its long history and specialties like Yangchun noodles or noodles with shrimp and eel.
• For a popular experience near the water, visit Green Tea to enjoy refreshments on wooden platforms above lily pads.
• Choose from various hot pot options at Chuan Wei Guan, which also serves Sichuan dishes.
• Explore specialized cuisines such as Japanese sushi trains, South-East Asian flavors in nearby eateries, or Xinjiang specialties in dedicated restaurants.

What to see and do

Explore the iconic West Lake, where you can wander along its expansive perimeter or traverse various causeways such as the Su Causeway and Yanggong Causeway. Rather than following a strict checklist of traditional scenes, spend a clear day wandering the lake's edge, taking a ferry to its islands, or exploring the nearby Hubin Parks to find a spot to relax. You can also experience the local culture by visiting Guo's Villa, a masterfully designed garden on the lakeshore that emphasizes the harmony of water and space, or visit the Zhejiang Provincial Museum to view rare treasures like celadon porcelains.

• Experience different perspectives of the lake’s landscape, including the lotus blossoms at Quyuan Garden and the fish-filled ponds at Flower Pond.
• Visit historical sites such as the Mid-Lake Pavilion, a centuries-old island structure, or the only natural island on the lake, Solitary Hill.
• Take a boat ride across the water to see the various islands and architectural landmarks.
• Find a space for cultural exchange at the English Corner located along the West Lake.
• Travel further afield to Qiandao Lake, an artificial reservoir featuring over a thousand islands created by the flooding of mountains.

When to go

You can experience four distinct seasons in Hangzhou, each offering a different atmosphere. Spring serves as a transitional period where the weather warms gradually under increasing cloud cover and limited sunshine. As you move into early summer, you will encounter the plum rains brought by the Asian monsoon, which bring significant precipitation before the peak of the summer heat.

During the summer months, expect very hot and humid conditions. If you travel in late summer, be mindful of the typhoon season, which brings strong winds and stormy rains. Autumn provides a shift toward drier conditions as the air cools from the summer heat. For those visiting in winter, the weather is chilly and cloudy with occasional snow; while this season is drier than others, it still receives rainfall.

Three days in Hangzhou

Day one, you can explore the historic charm of the area surrounding West Lake. You might also spend time wandering through Tiyuchang Road to experience the local atmosphere.

Day two, you can travel further to see the sights near the Grand Canal or explore the landscapes of Hangzhou Bay.

Day three, you can take in more of the scenery throughout Zhejiang before preparing for your next destination.