Antofagasta
Introduction
Antofagasta is a port city in northern Chile, roughly 1,100 kilometres north of Santiago. It serves as the capital of both Antofagasta Province and Antofagasta Region, placing it at the centre of the country's far north.
Before you go
Antofagasta is a city shaped by mining: much of the country's copper is produced here, and that industry has driven steady growth in construction, retail, hotels and the skyline. The city's origins lie in the saltpeter deposits found inland at Salar del Carmen in the 1870s, when the area was still Bolivian territory; the settlement that grew up around the port was renamed Antofagasta, and Chile occupied the city during the War of the Pacific. Later, a mudslide in 1991 devastated much of the city, and an earthquake struck in 1995. For maps and information on both the city and the surrounding region, the Sernatur tourism office sits just off Plaza Colón on Arturo Prat and is open on weekdays. When you arrive, keep an eye on your belongings at the bus terminals, where pickpockets target travellers as they load bags onto buses. If you have a vehicle, leave it in a guarded parking lot (estacionamiento) rather than relying on the free "guarded" parking at supermarkets, which is not safe.Getting there
Route CH-5, part of the Panamerican Highway, links Antofagasta with the rest of Chile. It meets the city via Route CH-26 in the north and Route CH-28 in the south. Route CH-1 runs north from the city and also gives access to Andrés Sabella Gálvez International Airport and the La Portada natural monument.
- Terminal de Buses Cardenal Carlos Oviedo Cavada, Avenida Pedro Aguirre Cerda 5750, sits north of town; buses serve this terminal rather than the downtown. There are many daily departures and arrivals, including Calama, San Pedro de Atacama, Iquique, Arica, Copiapó, La Serena and Santiago.
- Andrés Sabella Gálvez International Airport (ANF) lies in Cerro Moreno, north of the city, and is served by JetSmart, LATAM and Sky Airline. JetSmart and LATAM fly from Concepción, La Serena, Lima and Santiago; Sky Airline flies from La Serena and Santiago.
Getting around
Antofagasta has no metro, tram or urban rail, so getting around the city happens by road. The parts most visitors want to see are compact enough to cover on foot, and if you base yourself centrally you may not need any other transport for day-to-day sightseeing.
- On foot: the area of interest for most visitors is easily covered by walking.
- Minibuses: several lines of minibuses, each holding fewer than 30 people, serve the city. Fares are paid on board and are inexpensive. Because several different lines operate, ask at your accommodation which one passes near where you are staying and where you want to go.
- Taxis: black sedans that move through the urban area along fixed routes rather than roaming for hire, so you generally pick one up along its route. They complement the minibuses, especially if your destination sits off a minibus line.
- Car or 4WD: renting a vehicle suits a group of three to five people exploring the region independently, and can save money compared with organised tours. Rental cars here are relatively cheap, even cheaper than in Calama. Because the terrain outside the city is rough, a 4WD or truck is strongly recommended over a regular car unless you plan to stay on proper roads.
If you arrive by intercity bus, note that long-distance buses do not run downtown; they use the Terminal de Buses Cardenal Carlos Oviedo Cavada on Avenida Pedro Aguirre Cerda, north of town, so you will need a local minibus or taxi for the final stretch into the centre. Andrés Sabella Gálvez International Airport sits in Cerro Moreno, north of the city and outside the urban area, reached by Route CH-1, the same road that gives access to La Portada; plan on a taxi or a pre-arranged transfer into town, or ask your accommodation about a pickup. If you are driving yourself, Route CH-5, part of the Panamerican Highway, links Antofagasta with the rest of Chile, joining the city by Route CH-26 in the north and Route CH-28 in the south, while Route CH-1 connects the city to the north of the country.
Where to stay
For budget stays, the area near the bus terminals has plenty of options. Be aware that the further inland you go from here, the seedier it can get at night.
- Casa de Huesped Cataluna, on Bolivar, half a block from the bus terminals, offers big, comfy beds but not-so-clean rooms, with bugs and the smell of joss sticks. Bathrooms are shared, so bring your own towel and toilet paper, and the thin walls let you hear the birds singing in their cage in the hall along with everything else.
- Hotel Rawaye, on Calle Sucre, is a run-down old building with steaming hot showers and birds nesting in the ceiling. The bathrooms have a fascinating amount of headroom, and some rooms are quieter than others.
Food & drink
For a quick meal, Georgio Pizza on 14 de Febrero, at the corner with Calle Bolívar, serves great pizzas in an unpretentious, pleasant atmosphere, with takeaway available; note that they don't serve beer. For something more local and inexpensive, head to the Mercado at Plaza Sotomayor, where more than a dozen tiny restaurants offer set lunches — number 67 is a good bet. The food court at Mall Plaza, otherwise standard, has a neat outside area with a couple of bars and restaurants. The bars in the centre tend to be either strip clubs or purely male workers' hang-outs. For something more relaxed, the pedestrian Paseo Arturo Prat has a couple of pavement cafés that are good for people-watching, and there are a few decent spots along Av. O'Higgins (also known as Av. Brasil) and the seafront parallel to it. Wally's Pub on Antonio Toro, by the south end of O'Higgins, is a genuine ex-pats hang-out with a full restaurant menu, neatly laid out and warm and friendly, with a great atmosphere.What to see and do
Start with the city's landmarks. The Ruinas de Huanchaca are the vestiges of an old iron foundry, while the Mano del Desierto, a sculpture of a giant hand rising from the sand, lies 75 km south of the city. North of Antofagasta, La Portada is a yellowish rock gate standing in the sea along a picturesque and wild cliff coast; you can reach it by local bus or by any bus heading for Mejillones, which will let you off at a nearby road crossing from where it is a 3-km walk. If you bring a mattress and sleeping bag, there are many dry places to camp overnight. In town, walk the pedestrian mall that links the two main squares: Plaza Sotomayor, with its market, and Plaza Colón, with its Big Ben replica. The sunny weather makes visiting the multiple artificial beaches along the coast enjoyable in any season, such as Balneario Municipal, and you can watch sea lions, pelicans and smaller birds feeding on fish waste in the fishermen's harbour. For cinemas, head to the two large seafront malls, and catch the sunset from the seafront walk to the south.When to go
Antofagasta has a cold desert climate, so you can visit at almost any time of year without facing extreme heat or cold. The city sees abundant sunshine, strong maritime influence and extreme aridity, with high humidity and morning fog. Temperature swings between the warmest and coldest months are only mild, so packing for either season is straightforward.
- January (warmest): This is the height of the southern summer, with the warmest conditions of the year. Days are dry and sunny, and rain is essentially absent. Expect warm, sunny weather.
- July (coldest): Days are cooler but still mild, and the desert aridity persists. Morning fog known as the Camanchaca and high humidity are common, along with winds from the south and southwest.
Three days in Antofagasta
Day one: Start in Antofagasta itself, getting your bearings around Plaza Colón and the streets named for Arturo Prat. The city faces the Pacific, and its waterfront is the natural place to begin. If you need orientation or local information, Sernatur can help. Later, head north of the city to La Portada, the coastal arch that is one of the region's defining landmarks.
Day two: Use Antofagasta as your base for the wider Antofagasta Province and Antofagasta Region. You can travel inland toward Calama and San Pedro de Atacama, or north along the coast to Iquique and Arica, or south toward Copiapó and La Serena. The Panamerican Highway and Route CH link these places, and long-distance services such as Buses Cardenal Carlos Oviedo run from the Terminal. Remember that the Salar de Atacama and the Bolivian border country lie inland, and that this coast was shaped by the War of the Pacific.
Day three: If you are flying out, Andrés Sabella Gálvez International Airport, also known as ANF, serves the city at Cerro Moreno, with airlines including JetSmart and LATAM. Otherwise, take a final look at the centre, along Avenida Pedro Aguirre Cerda and the Cavada district, before continuing to Santiago or elsewhere in Chile. It is a city of desert and sea, and three days gives you a first measure of both.