Bern travel guide

Bern, Switzerland

By the Travel Wiki editorial team

Bern

Introduction

Bern, also written Berne, is Switzerland's de facto capital, known as the "federal city". It sits behind Zurich, Geneva, Basel and Lausanne in size, so it feels like a capital without the scale of a metropolis.

The city spreads beyond its core: the Bern agglomeration takes in dozens of surrounding municipalities, and a wider metropolitan area reaches further still. Expect a compact, walkable centre set within a broader urban region.

Before you go

Bern is the Swiss capital and a city with a long history: founded in the 12th century, it joined the Swiss Confederation in the 14th century and became the national capital in the mid-19th century. It has hosted major international sporting events, including matches in a European football championship and the EuroGames, Europe's biggest annual LGBT+ sports event. Before you arrive, it helps to know that the main language is Bernese Swiss-German, a dialect of Alemannic. Swiss-German is mostly spoken, while standard German is used in official publications, announcements and news broadcasts, and almost everyone you are likely to meet as a tourist will speak standard German. English appears to be supplanting French as the favourite second language of the Bernese, even though the canton is bilingual German- and French-speaking, and many people you encounter will speak both, so it is worth trying.

Tourist information is available from a website and from Tourist Information Centres outside the main railway station and in the Old Tram Depot next to the Bear Pit. On safety, Bern has nearly no violent crime, but as the capital it sees political demonstrations every few weeks on a variety of subjects, occasionally leading to police intervention. Drunks and vagrants often congregate at the central railway station at night, which is a nuisance but generally not dangerous, and there has been a slight increase in violence from young people, so avoid groups of drunk teenagers that look suspicious. Police will happily help you if you are in trouble or need information, but are also known for approaching "suspicious" persons to check their papers; carry a photocopy of your passport and your onward ticket, stay calm and polite, and you won't have much trouble. If you plan to swim in the river, note that it can be cold and fast flowing and visiting swimmers have drowned, so check with local swimmers where and when it is safe before entering the water.

Getting there

Bern sits in the middle of Switzerland and is easy to reach from every part of the country. If you fly, Bern-Belp Airport is a small affair about 10 km south of the city, off Hwy 8 west of the River Aare. From there, take Bus 334 or 160 to Belp railway station (about 10 minutes), then a frequent S-bahn local train to Bern's main station, roughly 40 minutes altogether. The bus runs every 30 minutes, with the first and last buses of the day going directly to Bern railway station. The transfer is free if you have booked accommodation in Bern and show your confirmation letter; otherwise it costs Fr. 7 each way. A taxi into the city takes about 20 minutes. For a better choice of flights, fly into Geneva, Zurich or Basel and take the train to Bern.

By rail, Bern is at the hub of the SBB network: express (InterCity) trains connect twice per hour to Geneva, Basel and Zurich as well as Zurich and Geneva airports, and hourly express trains connect to most other cities, including Interlaken, Brig and Lucerne. Bern Railway Station sits in a mall surrounded by cafes and shops, with the info kiosk and main bank of ticket machines at the back, beneath the big departures board. Walk-up full-fare tickets are expensive, so check the Swiss Travel Planner for deals. By car, the city is easily reachable via the national motorway network from all directions, with several exits from motorways A1, A12 and A6. By bus, Eurolines, Flixbus and RegioJet connect Bern to several European cities; Twiliner buses take 12 hr 30 min from Barcelona via Girona, heading for Zurich, with seats that fold flat into a bunk.

Getting around

Bern's public transport network ties trams, trolleybuses, buses and the S-Bahn into a single system, with tickets valid across all modes within the zones and time you've paid for. Almost all lines meet at the main train station and run at intervals of five to thirty minutes, with yellow Postauto buses extending the reach into the suburbs. Bern, Biel and Solothurn share one fare network, the Libero-Tarifverbund, and you can buy single tickets, a six-ride saver ticket, a day pass, or weekly, monthly and yearly passes. Timetables and tickets for the whole country are available through SBB channels or from ticket vending machines. If you've booked a hotel in Bern, your booking includes the Bern-Ticket, which gives you free use of public transport in the central zones for the length of your stay, including the Gurten funicular and transfers to and from the airport; most hotels will print the ticket for you so you don't need the official app.

The compact old town and the area around the main train station are best explored on foot, though Bern sits on very uneven ground, so routes between the lower districts along the Aare and the higher ones involve a climb. For longer hops, Bernmobil runs the local trams and buses, while the S-Bahn reaches suburbs and nearby cities such as Biel, Thun, Fribourg and Solothurn; note that the main station is undergoing renovation and expansion work for years to come, so allow extra time when navigating it. Cycling is well catered for, with dedicated lanes on most thoroughfares, though the topography may call for some stamina or an electric bike, and the Publibike share scheme charges for the first half hour. Driving in the old town is difficult and not recommended: parking is scarce and expensive, so it's better to leave the car in a park-and-ride and continue by public transport. Motorbikes find free dedicated spaces around the perimeter of the old town, including near Waisenhausplatz and at the main station, and taxis can be booked by phone or picked up at the station.

Where to stay

Bern is a capital city, so budget beds fill up on weekends — book ahead if you can. If you arrive without a reservation, the tourist office on the ground floor of the main train station, on the west side, will try to help you find a room.

Food & drink

Eating out in Bern can be an expensive proposition, so shop around before settling on a restaurant. Many places serving traditional Swiss food cater to foreign tourists and have inflated their prices to match, and because most Bernese prefer Italian, Asian or other non-local cuisine, finding a traditional Swiss restaurant at an acceptable price can take patience. Be aware too that many restaurants stop serving food in the evening.

For budget meals, the city centre has a cluster of affordable options: Restaurant Zunft zu Webern on Gerechtigkeitsgasse serves good soups, solid Swiss standards such as cheese fondue and a decent number of veggie choices, with many items available in half portions; the Coop Restaurant Bern Ryfflihof offers a wide variety of dishes with a curry station, salad bar and plenty of desserts; Lo stuzzichino da Mohan is a simple Italian place whose menu is mainly pasta; and Tong Fong is a tasty Asian take-away. Near the centre, Sous le Pont in the Reitschule complex serves excellent dishes. In the mid-range, Beaulieu is an old-fashioned spot serving traditional Swiss and Bernese cuisine at affordable prices, popular with students and local workers rather than tourists; the Old Tram Depot, across the bridge next to the bear pit, serves hearty Swiss food from budget rösti to meat specialities, with an on-site brewery; Schmiedstube is known for typical dishes such as Röschti, Cordon Bleu and Älplermakkaronen; Café Fédéral has a stylish modern atmosphere, international cuisine and a speciality in entrecôtes; Kornhaus, in a former grain store decorated with frescoes of traditional Swiss scenes, is mostly Italian; Casino Restaurant sits by the Aare with views over the river and mountains; and Schwellenmätteli has a terrace on the river with a view of the Cathedral. For a splurge, Restaurant Rosengarten is an upscale Swiss restaurant with a view over the city, and the Meridiano at Kursaal-Bern is known for innovative cuisine and fine views over Bern and the surrounding countryside.

For drinks, there is a wide choice of bars all over town, though many central options tend to be conventional. Du Nord and Café Kairo, both across the Lorraine Bridge, and Cuba on Kornhausplatz are good choices, and most of the cooler bars are around the main clubbing venues. In the ancient Matte neighbourhood you will find nightlife for almost every taste, including the Dampfzentrale, a former electricity facility with a restaurant and bar specialising in urban, jazzy and electronic music and dance. The PROGR centre for cultural production houses artists' studios and a large courtyard with the CaféBar Turnhalle, and the Reitschule next to the central train station is the city's centre for alternative culture, with a theatre, cinema and concert and dancing venues. The Wasserwerk Club is a traditional venue for urban music, with the smaller Sportwerk open all week offering drinks, pool, snooker, darts and table football, and the larger Wasserwerk open at weekends with DJs and live concerts.

What to see and do

Bern rewards wandering as much as museum-going. Start with the old town's landmarks: the Zytglogge, a medieval guard tower turned astronomical clock that puts on a mechanical show with a jester, bears and a bearded king just before each hour, and the Bundeshaus, the domed parliament building where free guided tours run when the chambers are empty (bring your passport). The Einsteinhaus on Kramgasse preserves the flat where Einstein lived with his first wife and where his theories of relativity took shape. The tourist office in the train station hands out a free walking map marking the city's public art, including the small Space Invaders mosaics tucked onto walls, bridges and roofs around town.

For collections, the Bern Historical Museum combines ethnographic material with Bernese history from prehistory onward, the Kunstmuseum holds centuries of big names, and the Swiss Alpine Museum covers mountains from geology to alpinism. The Zentrum Paul Klee, housed in a wave-shaped building, draws on thousands of Klee's works and sits near his grave. Down by the river, the Bear Pit and its wooded riverside enclosure are home to Eurasian brown bears (they hibernate in winter), and the Tierpark Dählhölzli zoo incorporates the Aare into its outdoor enclosures. Climb the Gurten, a hill just outside the city with views over town and toward the Bernese Alps, hiking paths, a look-out tower and a playground, or take in the view over the old town from the Rosengarten. In summer you can drift for kilometres in the Aare. Sports fans can catch BSC Young Boys football at Stadion Wankdorf or the sold-out atmosphere of an SC Bern ice-hockey game.

When to go

Bern has an oceanic climate, with a warm summer and a cold winter. Frost and some snow are part of the colder months, so plan for icy mornings and a real winter feel in the city if you visit then. January is the coldest month, with daily means around freezing and minimums a few degrees below; air frost is common.

July is the warmest month, with daily means in the upper teens and maximums that often climb higher, and days reaching the higher range are common in this stretch of the year. Snowfall and snow cover occur in the winter months, with snow lying on the ground for a good part of the season, so expect cold days and occasional snow during a winter visit.

Three days in Bern

Day one: Start in Bern's old town, a UNESCO-listed medieval core of arcaded streets, and get your bearings at one of the Tourist Information Centres. German is the main language, though English and French are widely understood, and the local Alemannic dialect gives the city its own sound. Ride the historic tram and stop at the Old Tram Depot, then walk to the Bear Pit, the city's long-standing symbol. In the evening, stay in the old town rather than heading out to the suburbs.

Day two: Use Bern as a base for a day trip. Zurich, Geneva, Basel and Lausanne are all reachable by train, and Belp Airport and the Hwy connect the city to the rest of Switzerland and Europe. If you stay in Bern, follow the River Aare, which loops around the old town and is a favourite spot for a walk or a swim in warm weather. Expect the city to be lively during EuroGames and other LGBT events.

Day three: Slow down and explore the neighbourhoods on foot. The Bernese are proud of their city, and the old town's cellars and arcades reward wandering. Take a bus or the tram from the centre, or head out to Belp if you want a quieter look at the outskirts. Before you leave, check with the Tourist Information Centres for local events. Note that drunks can be a nuisance in some central spots at night, and police patrol the old town.

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