Goma

Introduction

Goma sits in the east of the Democratic Republic of the Congo, on the northern shore of Lake Kivu, where the country meets Rwanda. It is the capital of North Kivu province, and the surrounding landscape is shaped by the Albertine Rift, the western branch of the East African Rift. North of the city lies the Bukumu Chiefdom, while the Masisi Territory stretches to the west.

The defining feature of Goma's setting is Mount Nyiragongo, an active volcano that rises just south of the city. Between the lake, the rift, and the volcano, this is a place where the ground itself is a constant presence in daily life.

Before you go

Getting there

Goma International Airport (GOM) receives several flights from towns across Congo, including a daily service from Kinshasa operated by CAA and Congo Airways, and you can also fly in from Addis Abeba with Ethiopian. Another common approach is to fly to Kigali (KGL) in neighbouring Rwanda, which has direct flights from Europe and the United Arab Emirates, then continue by road to Goma by taxi or collective public transport.

• From Kisoro in Uganda, minibuses run from Bunagana at the border, but the road between Bunagana and Rutshuru is not safe; crossing at Cyanika into Rwanda and travelling via Musanze and Rubavu is safer and faster.
• From Rwanda, hourly minibuses such as Atraco Express and Okapi Car run from Kigali to Goma, taking roughly three and a half hours.
• From Butembo, buses leave from the Butembo bus station, often early in the morning.
• Daily ferries cross from Bukavu via Idjwi Island, with several companies making the trip.
• From Gisenyi, the two towns sit on the border and walking between the two city centres takes no more than half an hour.

Getting around

Goma has no structured public transport system: no subway, tram or extensive bus network, and no passenger rail service in or around the city. In practice, getting around means relying on informal, demand-based transport — motorcycle taxis and car taxis — which have no official routes or designated hubs but will take you anywhere within the city limits. Vehicles are plentiful on main roads and at busy intersections during the day, with operating hours roughly from morning until 9–10 PM, and availability drops significantly after dark. Because there is no formal network to learn, the practical skills are negotiating a fare, stating your destination clearly, and knowing when to avoid the roads altogether. Buses are not a realistic option within the city; the shared taxis and minibuses used for inter-city journeys, known locally as "fiat" and often old Mercedes-Benz vehicles, are inexpensive but overcrowded, uncomfortable and less safe, and are not recommended for tourists.

Two kinds of taxi dominate. Moto-taxis — called "Poda-Poda" locally and "wewa" in eastern DRC — carry one or sometimes two passengers, are the most common and cheapest mode, and are effective on congested and unpaved roads, though they carry a high accident risk and helmets are seldom provided or worn. Car taxis are private automobiles, often shared or hired, sometimes marked with a yellow stripe though the markings are inconsistent, and there are no meters. Fares for all taxis are negotiated per trip before departure and paid in cash — Congolese Francs or small USD notes — so keep small denominations on hand, as drivers may lack change for large bills. You can flag a car taxi on the street, but arranging one through your hotel or a trusted local contact is recommended. There are no major international ride-hailing apps operating in Goma, and local alternatives are non-existent or unreliable; tour operators generally arrange tourist transport via private automobiles, often the safest option. When using a car taxi, keep windows closed and doors locked, avoid travelling alone at night in any vehicle, and state your destination clearly — if you do not speak French or Swahili, have it written down or show it on a map.

Walking around Goma is difficult and, outside secure settings, risky: sidewalks are often uneven or non-existent, there are no dedicated bicycle lanes, and walking outside secure hotel or lodge compounds or away from guided tours carries a high security risk, notably after sunset. Cycling is extremely hazardous, and self-guided walking or cycling is not recommended, though some local guides offer guided walks in specific, relatively secure areas. Accessibility is a serious constraint — there are no accessibility provisions on moto-taxis or standard taxis, the infrastructure is not designed for travellers with mobility challenges, and specialist agencies plus extensive pre-planning would be required. Car rentals are of limited availability and self-driving is strongly discouraged because of road conditions and security concerns; motorcycle and bicycle rentals are generally unavailable. For significant journeys, private hire with an experienced local driver is the recommended option, often included in tour operator packages, since drivers know the road conditions, local customs and checkpoints.

Goma International Airport (GOM) is a critical hub for eastern DRC, including access to Virunga National Park and Mount Nyiragongo, with domestic flights connecting Goma to Kinshasa (N'djili International Airport, the primary international gateway) and cities such as Kisangani, Lubumbashi and Bukavu. Schedules are erratic, with delays and cancellations common, and safety standards vary between local airlines, so confirm flight status in advance and book via reputable tour operators or established airlines; baggage allowances can be strict on smaller planes. For the transfer into the city, pre-arranging an airport pick-up is advised, and if you arrange a car taxi instead, expect to negotiate the fare before departure and pay in cash. Many visitors arrive overland: from Gisenyi in Rwanda, both towns sit on the border and walking between the two city centres takes no more than half an hour, while hourly minibuses run from Kigali to Goma, taking approximately three and a half hours. Crossing at the border called le petite barriere at Cyanika into Rwanda, then reaching Goma through Musanze and Rubavu, is a much safer and faster option than some alternatives. From Kisoro in Uganda you can take a minibus in Bunagana at the Uganda border, but the road between Bunagana and Rutshuru is not safe, and from Butembo buses can be found at the Butembo bus station and may leave early in the morning. On Lake Kivu, daily ferries run from Bukavu via Idjwi Island, with several companies offering the trip, and regular boat services connect Goma and Bukavu, offering scenic views and a more comfortable alternative to the difficult road route. Local boats (pirogues) and small speedboats serve short distances across the lake and to nearby islands and villages — arrange these through hotels or local guides, verify the vessel's condition and the availability of life vests, and avoid overcrowded or visibly unsafe vessels. Cross-border lake connections require full international immigration procedures.

Roads are predominantly unpaved, severely potholed and dusty, with few paved roads and those often in poor repair; driving laws exist but are loosely enforced, and chaotic driving and aggressive manoeuvres are common. Avoid all after-dark travel on roads, within Goma and especially in rural areas, and do not walk alone after dark. Risks include armed bandits and illegal roadblocks, especially on rural routes, sudden civil unrest or demonstrations, volcanic activity from Mount Nyiragongo disrupting vehicular access and air quality, and wet-season flooding and mudslides that can make roads impassable. Emergency services are limited and unreliable, and parking security is a concern with limited formal parking. Military and police checkpoints are common on road travel: carry your passport, visa and permits such as park permits and be ready to show them, and a reputable local guide helps navigate these. Build buffer time into itineraries, since delays, breakdowns and schedule changes are common, carry water, snacks, a first-aid kit and a charged phone with a local SIM, and keep small denominations of Congolese Francs for minor purchases and small checkpoint fees, while USD is widely accepted for larger transactions. Stay informed on current security conditions in the areas you plan to visit.

Where to stay

Food & drink

For everyday eating, Goma has plenty of cheap restaurants serving rice, meat, chips and beans, and most also offer ugali, the traditional staple made mainly from flour and water. Natural yoghurt, known locally as maziwa, is popular and often sweetened with sugar, and you can find it at small shops around town. Le Chalet, on the edge of the lake, serves excellent, affordable food, though the state of the roads makes it a fairly long trip from the city centre. For a quiet meal with friendly staff, try the restaurant at Colibri Hotel.

In the mid-range, Salt & Pepper Restaurant offers Indian, Bengali, Chinese and African dishes, with service and smiles that will make you feel at home. At the top end, VIP Restaurant specialises in grilled fish and chicken. To drink, Goma has many kinds of Congolese beer, including Primus, Mitzing, Amstel and Turbo King. The country's nightlife is superb, and Goma is no different: in many nightclubs the music is a mix of local and western, and so are the punters.

What to see and do

Goma is the base for climbing the Nyiragongo volcano, whose lava lake is the main draw. The climb from the Goma side is technically easy, but it takes roughly six to eight hours to reach the top, so most climbers spend the night there. The Virunga National Park arranges the trip, including the park permit, guides and lodging at the summit; the route has been closed at times in the past and later reopened, so check the current situation before planning. If you trek the volcano, bring your own equipment, as the gear provided by some operators is of low quality.

Beyond the volcano, you can visit Lake Kivu and the Green Lake, and track gorillas in Virunga National Park. Local operators run these trips: Hakuna Matata safaris offers a two-day climb and tour of Goma, and Green Hills Eco-Tours organises climbs of the live volcano, mountain gorilla and lowland tracking, Goma sightseeing tours and Ijwi Island tours.

Three days in Goma

Day one: Base yourself in Goma, on the shore of Lake Kivu in the Democratic Republic of the Congo, and get your bearings along Blvd Kanyamuhanga, the city's main artery. Goma sits in North Kivu within the Albertine Rift, part of the East African Rift, and its setting between the lake and the volcanoes of the Virunga massif shapes everything you do here. Take the day slowly, adjusting to the city and its warm, humid lakeside climate.

Day two: Turn your attention to Mount Nyiragongo, the volcano that looms over Goma and defines its horizon. The wider Virunga Park lies within reach, and the landscapes of the Bukumu Chiefdom and Masisi Territory to the north show a different side of the region. If you prefer a quieter day, stay close to the lake and watch daily life unfold along the water.

Day three: Use your final day to understand how Goma connects to the wider region. Goma International Airport (GOM) links the city to Kinshasa, Beni and Kisangani within the country, and to Addis Abeba with Ethiopian, Kigali (KGL) with RwandAir, and onward to Europe and the United Arab Emirates. Carriers such as CAA and Congo Airways serve the airport. From here you can continue deeper into North Kivu or cross toward Rwanda.