Saskatoon

Introduction

Saskatoon is the largest city in the Canadian province of Saskatchewan, straddling a bend in the South Saskatchewan River in the central part of the province. It sits along the Trans-Canada Yellowhead Highway, and since its founding in 1882 as a Temperance colony it has served as the cultural and economic hub of central Saskatchewan.

Before you go

Saskatoon sits on bluffs along the South Saskatchewan River, and its early planners set aside the riverfront for parks. Several bridges cross the river and give fine views of the water, the trees and the skyline. The city was founded in 1906, and its growth came from immigration, railway links and mining wealth; that history left it with a wealth of Art Nouveau architecture, which together with the river and bridges earned it the nickname "Paris of the Prairies". Its economy rests on potash and other resource mining, oil and gas extraction, and wheat and other agriculture — abbreviated locally as "POW". The University of Saskatchewan has been here from the earliest days, and the city is home to the Canadian Light Source, Canada's only synchrotron. The name Saskatoon comes from a Cree word for a berry that grows along the river, missaskquahtoomina.

Before you go, get a feel for the city's layout. Roads running generally east–west are usually called "street"; those running north–south are usually "avenue". Idylwyld Drive, also signed as Louis Riel Trail and Highway 11, divides "east" from "west" streets, while 22nd Street west of the river and Aird Street east of it divide "north" from "south" avenues. The Meewasin Park along the river, from just past University Bridge in the northeast to just past Idylwyld bridge in the southwest, is the heart of the traveller's beat — a peaceful place to stroll, cycle or skate. On the east side you'll find the University of Saskatchewan, the Nutana neighbourhood, and within it the Broadway Avenue district, full of interesting shops and restaurants. On the west side, the Central Business District is pedestrian-oriented with many shops and restaurants, centred on 21st Street East and 2nd Avenue. Be aware that the alphabetized avenues west of Idylwyld, from Avenue B through Avenue Y and known as "Alphabet Soup", are considered sketchy, with gang and drug activity, violent crime and prostitution; it's best to avoid this area, particularly south of 22nd Street and around the 33rd Street intersection with Idylwyld. The east side of the river has a general reputation for being safer than the west. Expect long, cold winters and warm summers; in summer the sun is up from 4:45AM to 9PM, while winter daylight runs from 9:15AM to 5PM, as the province does not change its clocks for daylight saving.

Getting there

Most visitors reach Saskatoon by air through John G. Diefenbaker Airport (YXE), which serves domestic, international and northern communities. Direct flights within Canada include Calgary and Edmonton (each about 1.25 hours), Prince Albert (30–40 minutes), Regina (45 minutes), Toronto (3.5 hours), Vancouver (2 hours) and Winnipeg (1.75 hours). Airlines flying here include Air Canada, Flair Airlines, Rise Air, Sunwing Airlines and WestJet, while Delta Air Lines connects the city with Minneapolis and WestJet with Phoenix and Las Vegas. To get from the airport to the city centre, take Saskatoon Transit Route 12, rent a vehicle from one of the car rental companies, or take a cab.

By train, VIA Rail's The Canadian stops in Saskatoon three times per week between Toronto and Vancouver, with travel times of about 12.25 hours from Winnipeg, 10 hours from Edmonton, 17 hours from Jasper and 1 day 14 hours from Vancouver. The station sits southwest of downtown in a remote industrial area, with no rental cars on site; taxis are the effective way into town, and determined transit users can walk 10 minutes to Haida Avenue at Ortona Street for Saskatoon Transit route 9. By car, Saskatoon lies on Highway 16 (the Yellowhead Highway), which links to The Battlefords and Edmonton to the west and Winnipeg to the east, while Highway 11 connects to Prince Albert to the north and Regina to the south; an alternative from Calgary via Alberta Highway 9 and Saskatchewan Highway 7 is not divided. By bus, Rider Express runs from Regina (3 hours), North Battleford (2 hours), Lloydminster (3.5 hours) and Edmonton (7 hours), with FlixBus serving Regina, North Battleford, Edmonton and Calgary, Diamond North Express serving Prince Albert, and Creighton Connection providing a shuttle from Creighton.

Getting around

Saskatoon is a car-oriented city, and outside the central business district driving may be your most convenient option. Street parking downtown is plentiful, and the best choice of rental cars is at the airport, since there are few rental car offices in the Central Business District or Nutana. If you would rather stay on foot, walking works well in the compact, pedestrian-friendly tourist areas: the Meewasin park along the river, the Central Business District, Broadway Avenue, and Nutana. These districts sit close together and are rewarding to explore on foot, but the city sprawls beyond them and walking becomes less practical further out.

Saskatoon Transit serves most of the city with both regular and express (DART) service, and its hub system makes the City Centre Hub downtown the most useful base for travellers — most buses pass through the downtown terminal, so you can reach much of the city from there. You can pay cash for individual fares or buy a GoCard loaded with a package of rides at a discount, and tickets are sold at the Customer Service Centre, City Hall, and shops such as Co-op, Mac's, Safeway, and Shoppers Drug Mart, as well as in the Transit app. Timetables are available at the downtown terminal, on the Transit website, and in the app. Taxis are easy to find but generally pricey, and both Uber and Riide provide ride-hailing, with Riide also reachable by phone. Cycling is a strong option too: the city is very bicycle-friendly, with lanes and routes marked along some key corridors, and the Meewasin Valley Trail along the South Saskatchewan River is a highlight for recreational riders — though you should stay alert, as drivers can be careless.

Where to stay

Budget options cluster around College Drive, just over the bridge from downtown and close to the Royal University Hospital and the University of Saskatchewan. Laura's Lodge, a bed and breakfast converted over the decades from priests' living quarters, offers free wifi, parking, a communal kitchen and living room, and staff on hand around the clock; Netty's Nest next door has double and queen rooms with shared bathrooms, laundry facilities and wifi. Further out, you'll find a Days Inn on Idylwyld Drive North at Circle Drive, and a campground resort northwest of the city on Highway 16.

Mid-range choices include a Travelodge at the Idylwyld and Circle Drive interchange on the north side, and the Parktown Hotel, which has stood on the South Saskatchewan riverbank along the Meewasin Trail since the late 1950s. For a splurge, the chateau-style Delta Bessborough graces Spadina Crescent East with many rooms looking onto the river, its elegant old decoration well maintained alongside up-to-date business facilities. The Sheraton Cavalier sits across the street from the Bessborough and also looks onto the river, while the Radisson on 20th Street East is the city's tallest hotel, with views of the South Saskatchewan River and the city. A Hilton Garden Inn serves downtown on 22nd Street East.

Food & drink

What to see and do

Start by walking the Meewasin Trail, which runs the full length of both banks of the South Saskatchewan River and forms two linear parks through the centre of the city. Cross the river at the University Bridge, the Broadway Bridge, or the Idylwyld Bridge to link up with the districts and attractions that interest you most. The trail passes the University of Saskatchewan, the downtown area, and several residential neighbourhoods, and is dotted with interpretive sites and parks along the way. "Meewasin" is the Cree word for beautiful.

Along the river you can visit the Remai Modern Arts Gallery, a riverside building that took over the collections of the Mendel Art Gallery, with the Remai Performing Arts Centre next door. Nearby, the Civic Conservatory is a small conservatory thickly planted with flowers, lush plants, and small trees. The castle-like Delta Bessborough anchors many views along the river and the downtown streetscape, and it is worth ducking inside to see the grand old detailing on the ground, mezzanine, and convention floors. In the River Landing area, the public artwork Prairie Wind evokes prairie grass blowing in the wind. The Ukrainian Museum of Canada preserves and recreates Ukrainian culture in Canada through schoolbooks and textiles, telling the story of the immigrants who settled the Saskatoon area in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

• At the University of Saskatchewan, academic buildings cluster around an open area called "the bowl". Free exhibits include the Museum of Natural Sciences in the Biology Building, with full-size dinosaur bone models and animals, the Museum of Antiquities with Greek, Roman, Egyptian and Near Eastern sculpture, Roman coins, ancient glass and pottery, and the Canada Light Source.
• The Diefenbaker Canada Centre is the only combined Prime Ministerial archives, museum and research centre in Canada, with 1950s period replicas of the Prime Minister's office and cabinet rooms and temporary and permanent exhibits. Community Campus Tours of the university depart from its lobby in summer.
• Outside the core districts, the Western Development Museum features 1910 Boomtown, the longest indoor museum street in Canada, illustrating pioneer settlement and farm expansion in the Canadian West, along with a large collection of vintage farm machinery.
• Wanuskewin Heritage Park is an international visitor site for learning about 6,000 years of First Nations culture, and includes a daily tour of the bison herd within the park, plus a gift shop and restaurant.
• For activities, Eco Glide Adventures leads guided Segway and Ninebot tours of the Meewasin Park pedestrian trails, with helmets and transporters supplied, running rain or shine.
• Marquis Downs is the only licensed horseracing track in Saskatchewan, with thoroughbred and standardbred races in the summer months.
• Playland at Kinsmen Park offers children's rides including a miniature train, Ferris wheel, and merry-go-round, plus free sand play, water play and climbing play areas.
• Prairie Lily River Cruise runs hour-long sightseeing cruises up and down the river on a modern riverboat, with drinks served, as well as dinner cruises, brunch cruises, and combined offers with Shakespeare on the Saskatchewan.
• SaskTel Centre, at the far north end of the city, is the arena and largest events centre, home to the Saskatoon Blades hockey team and the Saskatchewan Rush lacrosse team and the usual landing spot for major concerts and shows. A statue of hockey legend Gordie Howe stands near the main entrance.
• Lucky Bastard Distillers offers tours and tastings of its whisky, gin, and vodka, including a Saskatoon Liqueur made from Saskatoon berries.
• The Saskatoon Forestry Farm Park & Zoo is another option off Attridge Drive.

In summer, Saskatoon hosts many festivals and events. Shakespeare on the Saskatchewan performs Shakespearian plays in a pair of large tents beside the former home of the Mendel Art Gallery in July and August, and Art in the Heart takes place in the Caswell area.

When to go

Saskatoon's seasons are sharply divided, and the timing of your visit will shape what you can do. Winters are long and bitterly cold, with short days — the sun is up only from about 9:15AM to 5PM — so expect a deep chill and limited daylight for sightseeing.

Summers are warm, with comfortable daytime highs and cooler nights, though heat waves can push temperatures higher and keep nights warm. Daylight is abundant, with the sun up from about 4:45AM to 9PM, giving you long evenings to explore the city.

Festivals & events

Saskatoon's festival calendar peaks in the summer months. Taste of Saskatchewan takes over July, while August brings both the Saskatoon Exhibition and Folk Fest.

Three days in Saskatoon

Day one: Start by getting your bearings along the South Saskatchewan River, which runs through the heart of Saskatoon. Wander the Meewasin Park trails on the riverbank, then cross the University Bridge to reach Nutana, a neighbourhood with a relaxed, historic feel. Browse Broadway Avenue for its shops and cafes, and stop for a meal at Alphabet Soup. In the evening, head into the Central Business District to see the Art Nouveau architecture and the city lights along the river.

• South Saskatchewan River
• Meewasin Park
• University Bridge
• Nutana
• Broadway Avenue
• Alphabet Soup
• Central Business District

Day two: Give yourself a full day around the University of Saskatchewan. Visit the Canadian Light Source, a research facility on campus, and take in the university grounds and their mix of historic buildings. The area reflects the city's Cree and Prairie roots, and you can learn about the region's history through its streets and landmarks. In the afternoon, follow Idylwyld Drive and the Louis Riel Trail to see how the Trans-Canada Yellowhead Highway connects Saskatoon to the wider Prairies.

• University of Saskatchewan
• Canadian Light Source
• Cree
• Prairies
• Idylwyld Drive
• Louis Riel Trail
• Trans-Canada Yellowhead Highway

Day three: Spend your last day exploring the older streets and neighbourhood character. Walk along Aird Street and the surrounding avenues, where Temperance-era buildings and early street patterns still shape the blocks. Expect a mix of residential calm and small local spots. Before you leave, return to the river for a final look at the Meewasin Park and the bridges, then make your way out via Idylwyld or the highway. Most visitors find three days enough to see the main sights at an easy pace.

• Aird Street
• Temperance
• Meewasin Park
• Idylwyld