Caxias do Sul
Introduction
Caxias do Sul sits in the northeast of Rio Grande do Sul, raised to an elevation of 817 meters in the Serra Gaúcha. It is the largest city in that mountain region and the second most populous in the state, after the capital, Porto Alegre.
Before you go
Caxias do Sul sits in the mountains of southern Brazil, and its story begins long before the Italian immigrants arrived, when the region was known as "Indians' Field" and roamed by cattlemen. The settlers who came from 1875 onward were mostly farmers from the Veneto, joined by people from Lombardy, Trento and elsewhere; they received some government support in the form of tools, supplies and seeds, but everything had to be reimbursed. That industriousness shaped the place you'll visit: vineyards and wineries grew out of subsistence farming, home workshops turned into internationally known factories, and the city is now regarded as the centre of Italian presence in southern Brazil, the "Pearl of the Colonies".
Pack for a mountainous climate. Winters are extremely cold, with frosts common and the possibility of snow, while summers are mild. Rain falls throughout the year, so there is no dry season to plan around — bring layers and something waterproof whatever the season.
Getting there
Caxias do Sul sits about 128 km from Porto Alegre, and most travellers reach it from the state capital. The city has its own airport, Aeroporto Hugo Cantergiani (Campo dos Bugres), with flights connecting via the São Paulo airports and Campinas. Because Porto Alegre Airport handles more commercial flights, many visitors fly there instead and continue by comfortable executive bus, a journey of roughly two hours; it is worth comparing fares for both airports before deciding. Azul and GOL are among the airlines serving Caxias do Sul.
By road, executive coaches run to the Estação Rodoviária de Caxias do Sul from Porto Alegre and many other cities across Rio Grande do Sul. The station has a snack bar, shops selling newspapers, magazines and souvenirs, and baggage storage if you want to explore town while waiting for a connection. Caxiense and Unesul both run the Porto Alegre route, while Citral serves Gramado, Canela, São Francisco de Paula and Taquara, and Ozelame covers nearby towns such as Bento Gonçalves, Farroupilha, Garibaldi and Carlos Barbosa. Other operators reach more distant destinations within the state and beyond. Schedules and fares can be checked online, though buying in advance typically requires a CPF; most foreign travellers simply buy a ticket at the time of travel, and seats are generally available outside holiday periods. If you drive, the main route is via BR-116, a journey of just over two hours, or you can leave BR-116 at São Leopoldo and take the RS-240 and RS-122 through the Serra Gaúcha. Both roads are well maintained, but the mountain stretches have many sinuous, sharp curves, so drive carefully and obey the speed limits.
Getting around
Caxias do Sul has no metro, tram or passenger rail network, so plan around buses, taxis and walking. Municipal buses are run by VISATE (Viação Santa Tereza de Caxias do Sul), and most routes passing through the centre carry the name of the subdivision (bairro) they serve, so knowing your destination neighbourhood makes it much easier to pick the right line. It is worth having a map of the city and its subdivisions before you set out, and VISATE publishes a full list of routes and maps. Walking works best in and around the urban centre, where commerce and industry concentrated as the city grew; beyond that, the terrain is the limiting factor, since the city sits where the plateau breaks into numerous valleys crossed by small waterways, producing rugged topography and hills, especially in the southern part. Distances between neighbourhoods and the hills in between make walking impractical for many trips, so combine walking in the centre with buses or taxis for longer journeys.
Taxis are described as very reliable, and the local custom is to take one from a taxi queue rather than hailing one off the street. Before you get in, know what the starting fare should be and which flag (bandeira) applies at that time of day; normal working days during working hours use "bandeira 1", the less expensive rate. If the taximeter starts running before the driver has begun the trip, ask them to zero it out (zerar o taxímetro), and use the usual precautions. If you want to see points outside the centre or travel throughout the Serra Gaúcha, you can rent a car from agencies operating locally, including Localiza Rent a Car, Yes Renta a Car, Hertz and City Rent a Car. Roads into the region are well maintained but demand care, particularly around the mountains, where they have many sinuous, sharp curves, so obey the speed limit signs. For travel between cities, the Estação Rodoviária de Caxias do Sul is the hub, with comfortable, air-conditioned executive coaches linking Caxias do Sul with Porto Alegre and many other cities across Rio Grande do Sul; several companies operate from there, each covering different parts of the state and nearby attractions. The station has a snack bar, shops selling newspapers, magazines and souvenirs, and baggage storage (guarda volumes) in Sector 6 on the west side, useful if you want to visit town while waiting for a connecting bus.
Where to stay
Budget options cluster along Rua Sinimbu, where you'll find the Bandeira Hotel and Coophotel, the latter formerly known as the Alfred Hotel. Hotel Pousada Caxiense is another inexpensive choice. For something mid-range, the Tri Hotel Executive sits right in the centre on Rua Ernesto Alves and is a good bet if you want modern, clean and inexpensive, while the Letto Hotel is on the same street. The Bela Vista Parque Hotel is another mid-range possibility.
If you'd rather stay outside the centre, the Ibis Caxias do Sul lies near the Iguatemi Shopping centre on the far west side of the city, so you'll need public transit, a taxi or a car to get into the centre. At the top end, the Blue Tree Towers is in the Pelegrino subdivision next to the centre, and the Personal Royal Hotel is in the adjacent Pio X subdivision. The Cosmos Hotel is in the centre on Rua Vinte de Setembro, while the Hotel Intercity Premium and the Samuara Parque Hotel, out on the RS-122, are both in Desvio Rizzo.
Food & drink
Caxias do Sul eats well, and much of it is built around the traditions of the serra. For a steakhouse experience in the gaucho mould, try Churrascaria Gaudério on Rua Mário de Boni, where meat is the main event. Pizzeria fans can head to Alameda Pizzeria on Rua Matteo Gianella. For something more tied to the region's wine culture, Chateau Lacave sits out along the BR 116 highway and pairs its food with the local produce of the vineyards. To drink in the traditional gaucho style, seek out Paiol Espaço Nativo, a venue devoted to the music, food and customs of the countryside. It is the kind of place to linger over a meal and a drink while the culture of the pampas plays out around you.What to see and do
Caxias do Sul wears its immigrant heritage openly, and most of what you'll want to see traces the story of the Italian families who settled the region. The São Pelegrino Church holds works by the Italian-Brazilian artist Aldo Locatelli, a replica of Michelangelo's Pietà gifted by Pope Paul VI for the centennial of Italian immigration, and bronze high-relief doors depicting scenes of colonization. Nearby, the Cathedral Diocesana on Rua Sinimbu, beside the central Praça Dante Alighieri, was inspired by the Basilica of St. Anthony in Bologna and built in Italian Gothic style with ten altars. For the settler story told through objects, visit the Museu Casa de Pedra, built in 1878 and furnished with the pieces immigrants used during colonization, or the Municipal Museum, which collects everyday items of the settlers and their acculturation with neighbouring groups. At the east end of Avenida Júlio de Castilhos, the National Monument to the Immigrant celebrates those who came to southern Brazil. To see how that heritage is staged, head to the Replica of Historic Caxias do Sul, a complex of fifteen wooden houses including a church and bandstand, reproducing Júlio de Castilhos Avenue as it stood in 1885. In Bairro Forqueta, southwest of the city, the Museum of Grapes and Wine covers the region's other great tradition. You can tour the Castelo Lacave winery, built in the style of a medieval castle, and sample wine or grape juice, or take a tour of the Marcopolo Bus factory in Bairro Ana Rech. If your visit falls in an even-numbered year, the Festa da Uva fills the pavilions beside the historic replica with a celebration of the region's Italian agriculture. South of the city, the Belvedere da Cascata Véu da Noiva looks out over the Bridal Veil Falls in Galópolis — take care pulling in and out, as the highway there is narrow and winding.When to go
Caxias do Sul sits in the mountains, and its climate follows that setting: winters are extremely cold, summers are mild rather than hot, and rain falls throughout the year. There is no dry season here, so whatever time you choose, plan for wet weather at some point during your stay.
Winter is the season of genuinely cold, wintry conditions. Temperatures can drop very low, frosts are frequent, and snow is possible, so pack accordingly if you travel in this period. Summer brings relief from the cold but not heat — averages stay mild, and rain still falls. Because wet weather can be met at any time of year, a waterproof layer is worth carrying in every season.
Three days in Caxias do Sul
Day one: Base yourself in Caxias do Sul, the largest city in the Serra Gaúcha and the heart of the Italian settlement of Rio Grande do Sul. Begin with the story of the immigrants from Veneto, Lombardy and Trento who arrived in the nineteenth century, and with the earlier presence of the Indians in the region. The city is your starting point for the surrounding colonies, and its streets give you a first sense of the Italian heritage that shapes the food and architecture of the Serra.
Day two: Travel out to the smaller towns of the region. Gramado and Canela are the best-known destinations, while São Francisco de Paula, Taquara and Ozelame offer quieter alternatives. Bento Gonçalves is another centre of the Italian colonies, and the countryside between these places is where you see the vineyards and the landscape of the Serra Gaúcha. Return to Caxias do Sul in the evening.
Day three: Use Caxias do Sul as your transport hub. Aeroporto Hugo Cantergiani connects the city with São Paulo and Campinas, with Azul and GOL among the airlines serving it. Because Porto Alegre Airport is the larger gateway, many travellers arrive there and continue by road. The Estação Rodoviária Caxiense is served by companies such as Unesul and Citral, linking Caxias with Porto Alegre and the rest of Brazil. Campo dos Bugres is the name you will see for the city's airport. Winters bring rain, so plan indoor stops, and the Pack Pearl and Field of the Colonies are among the local names you may encounter.